madkaw

It actually ran pretty decent with no noises . The chain was eating into the tensioner , plus it as stretching . Engine had less than 100k. Obvious lack of oil changes didn't help.

So what do you think was happening with the valve timing on this motor !

Here some pics of the stock sway bar in relation to the pump. The car is off the ground. So does this look like stock position for your bar? If the stock bar doesn't sit right ,then the bigger one won't and I have other issues. The one bolt from the oil pump hangs over the back half of the bar diameter. Stock spring perches with ST lowering springs

That's what I did- 1/2" . My point here is that it is advertised as a bolt on sway bar - NO MODS. So what if I had not noticed the bar laying on the oil pump at droop and when it was on the ground it cleared. I'm thinking I'm good until either I hear it banging or it takes out the oil pump . Don't want anyone falling into this mess if ST didn't put the kit together correctly. Or if I'm just doing something dumb, I want to know.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Again I ask how the engine mounts could affect this other than failure . I measured thickness of mine compared to brand new Nissan mounts on a 72 I am redoing. if the end links were taller - yes that would help- but pretty tall already. My plan today- if I have time - is to pull the sway bar and lay it next to the stock bar. It seems to me that the bends are not at the right angles - especially for the end links. These sway bars are hand bent , so always room for error.

For what? The mounts look solid and the front end isn't falling off. I could see how someone could miss this issue if they install this bar. Might not see the bar hitting the one bolt on the pump while its jacked up and then when on the ground the bar twists and clears the bar

If I had a place, I would take it for the head and trans

Actually it's a 1" bar and I contacted ST and sent them pics and dimensions of the sway bar and they say the dimensions are correct. So why am I having to run a spacer . They want more pics of sway bar and any mods to car. So what mods would affect the clearance ?

New ST kit and the 1 1/8" front bar under full droop ( jacked off ground) hits the oil pump bolt pretty hard . It took about 7/16" worth of spacers to clear the bolt by 1/8" . Seems wrong to me. I know full droop would be basically airborne , but worst case scenario it seems that the bar would smack the oil pump pretty dam hard . Feedback please . Let me add that weight on the wheels and clearance grows to 1/2"

Is that the 4 speed auto?

Called Futofab and verified play in axle. More than necessary for our cars , but shouldn't negatively affect anything . Also questioned the torque requirement on the bolts and he said he will revisit this. 35lbs is too much for 8mm bolts.

You can buy them new all day long for cheap also

I figured it out a long time ago. Glad to see someone carried the torch on this. Good work!!

Get the AFM in there very first thing to see if your not way lean or something . Plugs look okay?

I have read that putting a rear sway bar on does not improve handling- even make it worse if using the stock front bar. I have not found much info on it searching in general. There's not even much to read that is subjective. Love to see some testing done at an autocross from an experienced driver . So many factors involved between shocks , springs , etc...

There are clips on the very ends . After I thought about it - I figured they couldn't move once torque was applied to the splines . Wasn't a big fan of the Allen heads and trying to get 35lbs or torque on them. Had 2 bolt heads strip out. I know their tight I guess . Now the safety wire job- this ought to be time consuming :0

Got some clearance by shortening bushing. Question regarding axles. With everything mounted on I can grab the shaft and slide it back and forth enough to hear it banging the adapters - is that normal ?

Even if I increased my bar up front?

Shouldn't it clear from any position?

Just bought the sway bar

Try anothe pic

Installing my WCR axles and ST rear seat bar and they aren't getting along. I took out the spacer bushing on the sway bar , but still need more. The bolt I'm using ran out of threads so I will gain a bit more when I can tighten the ends more. Anyone else deal with this ?

Glad this thread came up since I am getting ready to go EFI with my 71 . I have a hybrid fuel tank also(CJ-5) , and I have been using the stock vent box, but I want to just get rid of it. Fuel Tank inc just uses 2 vents on their universal tanks. One for the filler neck and one other to vent tank to atmosphere. My problem is tank is right up against floor and the vent needs to stay vertical and there isn't much room to go anywhere. I could use the original vent line and run the vent up front and grab a canister off of some other car. So doing all this emissions cause me to get check engine lights now?

Dragging up an old thread . Buddy got a 280/280 Isky . We went to degree it and same issue- wrong numbers . Pretty sad if you ask me. To make matters worse we found the balancer that Damper Doc rebuilt was off TDC by at least 15 degrees . Don't assume anything guys

I think it's a matter of paying the man or getting a different head . So you find out how much it is to weld but that is just the first part. Did you consider a p79 or p90 and shave? How about a mn47 and port . An early e31? Why box yourself in with the 42 head that will need so much work . That work should be left to the professionals