madkaw

Great idea Jon . I need to redo this set up so I will keep this in mind!!

https://youtu.be/0k7XEz_-KSI

Dave at Rebello is interested in my diesel block so someone is doing something with them.

Tool shed?

I will have to go back and search, but I thought part of the attraction on the BC was there was a non- pillow ball option that had top hats that were insulated by rubber. For me- no more NVH is desired. I'd like to have better ride options as far as adjustable shocks. "Coil over " with smaller springs would be nice for bigger wheel options , but not ready to sacrifice any more on ride quality .

Thank you for taking the time to lay out some basics - not a coil over guy. Questions though. Where is the rubber insulation at in the top hats? I looked at pics trying to make out the construction , but fail to see this. So camber plates are not needed with these and all camber adjustments are done by dropping struts? Or can you use both ? My confusion on install is that I thought there was not cutting involved or welding, but now I understand that the original strut housing is removed and BC is installed, welded , on. So really it's the same amount of work as section ing struts ?

I guess I need a 101 class on how these adjust, install , etc... Keep looking but can't find much info

Nice numbers . I guess there's something true about that squish stuff I plan on at least 11:1 on my build but will be using the mn47 . I can get 93 out here so sounds like I'm good . Making that power with 34 all in also confirms my research . Congrats

I probably have one - I'll check when I get home

Watching

Sounds like your tentative plan would work for your goals . Just don't go wussy on the cam.

Advantage of these compared to OER FI ?

I like that fact that the HP on the 40's ! It's been said you can't make power with just 40's, but this seems very impressive .

Put me down. I'm tired of being paranoid that my car is going to roll away

I guess that's my question- so is a bracket and a cable that I am on the list for?

Love my AZC system too!

Delete

Why do you say small valves ? Doesn't the 42 have the larger valves? I anxious to see you diesel intake . I have one on the shelf that I would also like to use. They have larger diameter runners besides being long- 35mm

"Cheap one" is to drill your flywheel and use it with a gear tooth sensor. 30$ and your time . Of course this does mean pulling your trans , but the benefit is a very stable signal

Don't forget guys- this bar is way thicker so spacing between the mounting holes gets slim- thus a much thinner bushing. The bushing sticks out past the metal bracket slightly at the frame and is squished when tightening down the bar . I don't see how it could be any thicker unless the actual mount holes were wider

It's funny you say that Gira, because I've thought about that for the rear . Rear sway bar hits the boots on my WCR cv's under full droop. If I reduce end link lengths to clear boots then the sway bar hits control arm - ugh. Someone else suggested drool limiters but I know little about how to do it and the affect on my handling.

This ever happen ?

I have a n42 ready to install and it will be NA motor. MS3x already installed , just need to swap out . The hardest part will be saying good bye to my Mikunis

Its easier horse power vs. installing a new programmable ECU . Most guys opt to throw triples on then bigger injectors and a method to tune them. In the end the cost probably even out , and even the learning curve for some might be the same. Myself- I am about ready to do away with carbs and go for power the other route. There isn't that many builds here that I have read that go for NA FI power with a programmable ECU . Most stuff is turbo style

So you were running how much CR and wanted how much boost? Seems that the n47 head might be first issue. Why that head ?