madkaw

I've thought of going the same route , but I run dual pipes. Pros: redundancy - sensors do go bad , this would be a back up. Troubleshooting - one more tool Tuning- what if you want to run 5&6 a bit richer based on detonation issues - separate sensors would help verify More gauges in the cockpit to impress friends !! Cons - more money and more wiring

Got my pump installed into my tank - waiting on my sending unit. Everything is just sitting in there finishing mock up. Had to see how things lined up before cutting more holes in my floor. Just got my Swagelocks so they aren't installed . Used plan old copper compression fittings to mock up stuff and figure final sizing on hard lines with fuel filter. I think I am going to reinstall vent hard line under car to enable to run a proper purge vent system .

Trying to science out my fuel vent system . I do think I want to run a charcoal canister with purge valve. Weather permits my car gets driven a lot and I want it to vent properly with no fumes . Since I am in the conversion process to FI I might as well get this done . Lots of things to consider as far as location , type ( rear , front mounted ) , powered by what circuit in MS , purge valve . Lots of opinions on proper time to purge based on engine vacuum . Some purge based on engine temp and purge during warm up and shut off during warm running . I guess doesn't need constant purging. I guess I should plan on trying to reinstall OEM hard line to connect tank to whatever process I try. Take any suggestions

Unless things have changed here recently - MSA and Classic Datsun get there flares from the same vendor and they copies of bad copies. A couple of years ago I actually talked to the vendor who ADMITTED that they molds are old and need replaced, " but I still sell a bunch of them " I returned my set to Classic . Save yourself the pain - order the Marugens

Not much meat on the stock intake runners to bore out , so more of a matter of cleaning up. Depending on your head dictates what can it should be done with the runners. Again , very limited with stock intake. after market ECU - or you are just wasting your time.

Your just going to have to rearrange your priorities - you need to think about your Z fans !!

There's no magic bullet and no absolutes . There are builders running 11:1 successfully , but it's the small details that get it. No secret combos , just tuning and much research .

Dizeased over on CCZC does these de strokers all the time - I think he has done 3 . Could find 81-84 maxima and use that head on your L28 if you want junkyard CR!!

I've decided to use Swagelocks for all my connections . SS has limited my options ,but regardless the Swagelocks are a strong option. My areomotive fuelfilter came in as well as clamps and other things . Bad news is that my plastic fuel tank will not work . Not enough flat area on top to support pump lid . I ordered my new steel CJ -5 tank with straps and sending unit for a grand total of 130$ ! Being metal I can work any areas flat I need to, plus gives welding options. At least the supply line is done and I utilized the original supply line as a return - so no bending required:) So EFI upgrade plumbing costs: SS line = 50$ Swagelocks -= 100 Tank inc pump= 250 Fpr = 125$ Fuel filter = 85$ Fuel rail = 150 Injectors = 200$ New tank= 150 It's really starting to add up !

This one came from a 2/71 Has one crack , but no missing pieces . 125 shipped obo

Well just about finished running a 3/8" supply - that SUCKED ! Put it in OEM position in the tunnel and it was PITA - the SS did not help that either. Had to make new line rubber supports which to a little R&D time . Then there was loosening the wire harness and some brake lines - oh and the DS and ...... I managed to make the supply line long enough to reach the frame , so I need to make a second to go to the fuel rail. That should go faster . In hindsight I might have done zinc steel lines next time . That SS is like superman sh!t to bend . Going to start on the tank cutting next.

Bringing this thread back since I have considered the GF T-5. When I called GF they told me that you have to supply them with the ZX turbo trans for them to modify( core ?) They swap out internals with modified( treated or stronger materials for gears, etc..) WC parts. So shifter location stays the same as well as casing . Like stated the inputs and outputs are bigger so that's where the changes have to be made. Instead of a 1.3" output of the Nissan you go to the 1.5" this actually makes the fab work for a custom DS cheaper if you go with 1310 spicer joints . So then you have to change the spline on the clutch disc and pilot bearing to fit the bigger WC BUBBA from GF said the trans is good for 600hp . 3500$ to do the conversion on just the trans. GF also gives options on gearing with a little taller 1st & 2nd which makes for a close ration . I didn't realize this option was out there until recently . Considering there is no real machining or adapter plates needed by the installer and the trans just bolts in to our blocks I think it's a decent option. Since I already run the T5 my shifter already has been fitted to my chassis

Tim, Could you explain the adaptation process for the GF trans. I talked to Bubba there, but not sure he was the guy that builds the trans. So you have a standard T5 - larger - input/output ? Sounds like it takes some abuse

Yes you do Yours definitely seems to have more raspy tone

I have the same exact muffler set up- but twice as many https://youtu.be/0k7XEz_-KSI

If you want to run ITBs eventually you will want a TPS. Might see if the 240sx TPS will work with your TB. Another reason to have a full range sensor is for data logging . Trouble shooting and tuning would be easier with one more data point

Never made the connection. Just read what folks found here. My 1982 block was .019 above

I believe that's correct . It seems hit and miss with these trans whether there is 3rd gear issues or not. I'm going to pony up for a G Force conversion $$$ . There is no really easy swaps . Most involve machining .

I had an aluminum one made for my car-$$$ HD Spicer joints I believe Z car Depot has all the parts to put one together

Are you sure about the gears being obsolete? I thought the last one I had rebuilt the guy found a new 3rd gear. It seems that the 3rd is the Achilles heel of these trans .

Get someone to video you doing a drive by. The exhaust mic is really dominant like you said . I just set my camera on a box or something in the hatch - it does a pretty good job picking up the total sound. It almost sounds like an open header with yours. My car has the same magnafow exhaust as yours- just twice as many:)

Sounds like an L !!

My Mikunis would idle at 750 rpm with the 290/490 cam. I read a lot about guys idling at 1000 rpm - that would be annoying. Not sure if ignition was the reason or not

I was in the design stage . I ran the car with both the dizzy and the COP installed while I was working out the details and to confuse people:)

No - I think the MS PRO is weather proof though. Not sure what your asking about plug leads . Yes the coils have spark plug leads