madkaw

It's about the same work, but your not taking .080 off the head so no chain issue . You have to swap out all valves on the 79 if you take .080 out, but the MN would just be intake seats and valves .

I'd take it but I have too many now. Let me know if there's anything I could possibly trade for it:)

There easier to find than you think. Just look at sites selling used car parts . There's old Maxima's engines laying around. Usually cheaper than sourcing a z head .

My approach will be a MN47 head on a 54 block. At 39cc stock, no shaving required. You could put larger seats on the intake and run your 47 valves - done . It might have too much pop and need MS to keep it under control. Just another option

Looks like you picked one already that should be pretty good for your goals.

Sounds like a good plan. Build your 31 head and don't be shy about the cam, it will still drive good and idle fine with that cam. I'd shave down the head to about 39cc or less if you get 91 octane . And yes to bigger valves - intake and exhaust .

I didn't want to mess with resistors - pulse width , ect... Just hook up injectors and done. Change out pintles so you can use 14mm and you can pick from countless domestics for cheap

I hope Zedd Findings rear valence panel is better than the one that MSA used to sell. I would personally think about splicing in a new cutout before replacing complete panel . The deal with the panel I got was it wasn't formed quite right and it was like 16 gauge metal- terrible to try and form. That rear panel is actually a compound curve . I'd try and find a donor

Get some high impedance Boschs off of any domestic or get some new ones. I ordered new Boschs for about 39$ each or something around that cost . I got 270cc I believe

Intake ports notched for injectors . Little wider than stock, but within limits of the gasket . Drilled holes are tapped . Got my seals back in and a quick valve lap and installed valves back in head.

Head is back from the machinist with a fresh cut. CC the head and came up with 37cc , so I should be around 10.5:1 now . Need to finish cleaning up things and putting some new stem seals on.

Drilling the head at home was a bit of a challenge . I think I got'er done though. Notched for injectors and a fresh cut on the head and I should be in business

I think you should stay away from sequential right now . It's more learning for not much gain. Find some easy way to get your timing right by using MS only and go from there.

Might make starts a little easier - though the MS primes every time before start anyhow. Having fuel everywhere in the fuel system keeps things a wee bit cooler also . Keep things from vapor locking

Sorry for the delay answering- I've kind of let this thread slip. No surge tank, just Tank Inc set up. That's the one thing I wanted to avoid was running two pumps. I finally pressure checked everything. Turn pump on-see leak-turn off pump-fix leak-turn on pump-see leak-ect... In haste I left some Swageloks a little loose, and had to add some Teflon in other areas. When I finally had all the leaks fixed I noticed after shutting off pump pressure would drop to 0 fast-WTF! It then dawned on me I had no check valve in the system-oops. Ordered an inline check valve from Summit. Lucky for me I timed all this while the wife was out of town, because the house smelled like one big gas can ;-o Next step is to throw the head on-but I don't have one ready and my MN47 is under the knife. I am really hurting for time and place to work since in process of building a shop. Quick plan is to convert the E88 for FI. Need to drill for bolts and notch and should be good to go. Of course easier said- than done. Have to make a jig to drill the head. If you look at the head there is no real square surface to sit on a drill press. Bolting L brackets to head surface so I can lay her on her side and drill holes. PITA since I have a puny drill press with very little table surface.

A guy I work with keeps me up on the latest as far as newer engines ( I'm stuck in the dark ages of Datsun), but he was telling me about this particular engine. A simple head swap and other stuff and you get a screamer NA motor ! Sounded like it was pretty easy to get 300 NA. I guess I need to crawl out of my cave- lol

So why was it lean? Didn't you have the mixture wheels close to same adjustment ?

Whatever you are searching just include Hybridz in the title or phrase

Another thing to check. I once had problems with the Float bowl to nozzle rubber lines collapsing under heat. They were collapsing at the bend . I could actually reach under there after the engine was warm and feel a flat spot in the hose. This cut off fuel flow to the carbs

Haven't ran the pressurized version of the Mikunis , but I would agree that I would drop the main air down a couple of sizes and maybe even bump up the pilot one size . Maybe too much fuel but better than too little

On my P79 head I was considering drilling into coolant passage between 5&6 and tapping it for the sensor

Sounds a little like my last dyno shop experience. Not going thru the whole story but in the end the owner said he had found a niche market catering to Lotus crowds and really didn't care about any other business. This was very much different from my first visit with the guy; maybe cash was greener then? It does suck to have so little data -especially AFR. On my last run the operator said I was almost dangerously lean(14) at WOT, contrary to my 13.1 I was showing on my gauge. He also stated earlier that his tail pipe sniffer might read lean? So what am I to believe? Going with a different dyno next session

I agree with these guys that I wouldn't waste time with a CHT . The MS3 with temp sensor and Map daddy and baro correction thru the software and you'll be set. TPS should be used as a secondary load sensing . MAP would be much easier to start with

One piece throw away type with a non cleanable cartridge is all that matters. Nothing to come loose internally and block flow

....and what fuel filters are you using?