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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. Drilling the head at home was a bit of a challenge . I think I got'er done though. Notched for injectors and a fresh cut on the head and I should be in business
  2. I think you should stay away from sequential right now . It's more learning for not much gain. Find some easy way to get your timing right by using MS only and go from there.
  3. Might make starts a little easier - though the MS primes every time before start anyhow. Having fuel everywhere in the fuel system keeps things a wee bit cooler also . Keep things from vapor locking
  4. Sorry for the delay answering- I've kind of let this thread slip. No surge tank, just Tank Inc set up. That's the one thing I wanted to avoid was running two pumps. I finally pressure checked everything. Turn pump on-see leak-turn off pump-fix leak-turn on pump-see leak-ect... In haste I left some Swageloks a little loose, and had to add some Teflon in other areas. When I finally had all the leaks fixed I noticed after shutting off pump pressure would drop to 0 fast-WTF! It then dawned on me I had no check valve in the system-oops. Ordered an inline check valve from Summit. Lucky for me I timed all this while the wife was out of town, because the house smelled like one big gas can ;-o Next step is to throw the head on-but I don't have one ready and my MN47 is under the knife. I am really hurting for time and place to work since in process of building a shop. Quick plan is to convert the E88 for FI. Need to drill for bolts and notch and should be good to go. Of course easier said- than done. Have to make a jig to drill the head. If you look at the head there is no real square surface to sit on a drill press. Bolting L brackets to head surface so I can lay her on her side and drill holes. PITA since I have a puny drill press with very little table surface.
  5. A guy I work with keeps me up on the latest as far as newer engines ( I'm stuck in the dark ages of Datsun), but he was telling me about this particular engine. A simple head swap and other stuff and you get a screamer NA motor ! Sounded like it was pretty easy to get 300 NA. I guess I need to crawl out of my cave- lol
  6. So why was it lean? Didn't you have the mixture wheels close to same adjustment ?
  7. Whatever you are searching just include Hybridz in the title or phrase
  8. Another thing to check. I once had problems with the Float bowl to nozzle rubber lines collapsing under heat. They were collapsing at the bend . I could actually reach under there after the engine was warm and feel a flat spot in the hose. This cut off fuel flow to the carbs
  9. Haven't ran the pressurized version of the Mikunis , but I would agree that I would drop the main air down a couple of sizes and maybe even bump up the pilot one size . Maybe too much fuel but better than too little
  10. On my P79 head I was considering drilling into coolant passage between 5&6 and tapping it for the sensor
  11. Sounds a little like my last dyno shop experience. Not going thru the whole story but in the end the owner said he had found a niche market catering to Lotus crowds and really didn't care about any other business. This was very much different from my first visit with the guy; maybe cash was greener then? It does suck to have so little data -especially AFR. On my last run the operator said I was almost dangerously lean(14) at WOT, contrary to my 13.1 I was showing on my gauge. He also stated earlier that his tail pipe sniffer might read lean? So what am I to believe? Going with a different dyno next session
  12. I agree with these guys that I wouldn't waste time with a CHT . The MS3 with temp sensor and Map daddy and baro correction thru the software and you'll be set. TPS should be used as a secondary load sensing . MAP would be much easier to start with
  13. One piece throw away type with a non cleanable cartridge is all that matters. Nothing to come loose internally and block flow
  14. Google MegaSquirt ignition maps here on Hybridz . There's a thread somewhere that the guys shared their maps. Start out mild with 10-12 initial timing and make towards full advance ( 33-38) by 3000 rpm . Then you can start getting more aggressive from that point on. At high vacuum settings for cruise you can add in more timing for economy
  15. New harness is not a bad idea - especially if there not labeled, plus the longer runs. Read and read and read . Lot of good articles written by MS /DIY TUNE, about systems and how they work together . Got to know your own cars wiring also so you implement the MS in the proper places
  16. Chickenman might be referring to me. I asked what fuel filter you were running because I had a similar mysterious issue that plagued me and it turned out to be a faulty filter . Specifically glass type Mr Gasket
  17. I run 14mm high impedance with the n42 intake- no drilling required, but pintles do need changing .
  18. Yes you have to use the T5 shaft and shorten it by an inch or so. Or have DS made . You ALSO have to have the diff flange from the turbo drivetrain . It's a dedicated DS , so everything has to match . The shifter will also be in a different spot in the console . Lots of info out there
  19. Your R&D skills are something to be envious of. We haven't had a thread this juicy since Monster's turbo intake!
  20. I plan to build my intake with injectors at the flange( as close as I can) . I thought it might be a good choice of intake for a stroker build with 35mm runners . Your not going to find that on any stock FI intake, I believe it will clear the hood also . It sure would be a pretty piece if someone wanted to buff it out. Built in mount for BOV
  21. New Zed, Your saying the runners you measured weren't longer that a stock gasoline.? I measured almost 13" runner length on the diesel intake- way longer than any gas intake.
  22. If you look at the top of the runners at the flange you can see OEM marks for injector holes! ? That's what I'm going to do. It's tight but it would be better IMHO. How many of these intakes do you have to mass produce?
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