madkaw

Drilling the head at home was a bit of a challenge . I think I got'er done though. Notched for injectors and a fresh cut on the head and I should be in business

I think you should stay away from sequential right now . It's more learning for not much gain. Find some easy way to get your timing right by using MS only and go from there.

Might make starts a little easier - though the MS primes every time before start anyhow. Having fuel everywhere in the fuel system keeps things a wee bit cooler also . Keep things from vapor locking

Sorry for the delay answering- I've kind of let this thread slip. No surge tank, just Tank Inc set up. That's the one thing I wanted to avoid was running two pumps. I finally pressure checked everything. Turn pump on-see leak-turn off pump-fix leak-turn on pump-see leak-ect... In haste I left some Swageloks a little loose, and had to add some Teflon in other areas. When I finally had all the leaks fixed I noticed after shutting off pump pressure would drop to 0 fast-WTF! It then dawned on me I had no check valve in the system-oops. Ordered an inline check valve from Summit. Lucky for me I timed all this while the wife was out of town, because the house smelled like one big gas can ;-o Next step is to throw the head on-but I don't have one ready and my MN47 is under the knife. I am really hurting for time and place to work since in process of building a shop. Quick plan is to convert the E88 for FI. Need to drill for bolts and notch and should be good to go. Of course easier said- than done. Have to make a jig to drill the head. If you look at the head there is no real square surface to sit on a drill press. Bolting L brackets to head surface so I can lay her on her side and drill holes. PITA since I have a puny drill press with very little table surface.

A guy I work with keeps me up on the latest as far as newer engines ( I'm stuck in the dark ages of Datsun), but he was telling me about this particular engine. A simple head swap and other stuff and you get a screamer NA motor ! Sounded like it was pretty easy to get 300 NA. I guess I need to crawl out of my cave- lol

So why was it lean? Didn't you have the mixture wheels close to same adjustment ?

Whatever you are searching just include Hybridz in the title or phrase

Another thing to check. I once had problems with the Float bowl to nozzle rubber lines collapsing under heat. They were collapsing at the bend . I could actually reach under there after the engine was warm and feel a flat spot in the hose. This cut off fuel flow to the carbs

Haven't ran the pressurized version of the Mikunis , but I would agree that I would drop the main air down a couple of sizes and maybe even bump up the pilot one size . Maybe too much fuel but better than too little

On my P79 head I was considering drilling into coolant passage between 5&6 and tapping it for the sensor

Sounds a little like my last dyno shop experience. Not going thru the whole story but in the end the owner said he had found a niche market catering to Lotus crowds and really didn't care about any other business. This was very much different from my first visit with the guy; maybe cash was greener then? It does suck to have so little data -especially AFR. On my last run the operator said I was almost dangerously lean(14) at WOT, contrary to my 13.1 I was showing on my gauge. He also stated earlier that his tail pipe sniffer might read lean? So what am I to believe? Going with a different dyno next session

I agree with these guys that I wouldn't waste time with a CHT . The MS3 with temp sensor and Map daddy and baro correction thru the software and you'll be set. TPS should be used as a secondary load sensing . MAP would be much easier to start with

One piece throw away type with a non cleanable cartridge is all that matters. Nothing to come loose internally and block flow

....and what fuel filters are you using?

Please post all toying plans

Google MegaSquirt ignition maps here on Hybridz . There's a thread somewhere that the guys shared their maps. Start out mild with 10-12 initial timing and make towards full advance ( 33-38) by 3000 rpm . Then you can start getting more aggressive from that point on. At high vacuum settings for cruise you can add in more timing for economy

New harness is not a bad idea - especially if there not labeled, plus the longer runs. Read and read and read . Lot of good articles written by MS /DIY TUNE, about systems and how they work together . Got to know your own cars wiring also so you implement the MS in the proper places

Chickenman might be referring to me. I asked what fuel filter you were running because I had a similar mysterious issue that plagued me and it turned out to be a faulty filter . Specifically glass type Mr Gasket

What type fuel filter?

I run 14mm high impedance with the n42 intake- no drilling required, but pintles do need changing .

Yes you have to use the T5 shaft and shorten it by an inch or so. Or have DS made . You ALSO have to have the diff flange from the turbo drivetrain . It's a dedicated DS , so everything has to match . The shifter will also be in a different spot in the console . Lots of info out there

Your R&D skills are something to be envious of. We haven't had a thread this juicy since Monster's turbo intake!

I plan to build my intake with injectors at the flange( as close as I can) . I thought it might be a good choice of intake for a stroker build with 35mm runners . Your not going to find that on any stock FI intake, I believe it will clear the hood also . It sure would be a pretty piece if someone wanted to buff it out. Built in mount for BOV

New Zed, Your saying the runners you measured weren't longer that a stock gasoline.? I measured almost 13" runner length on the diesel intake- way longer than any gas intake.

If you look at the top of the runners at the flange you can see OEM marks for injector holes! ? That's what I'm going to do. It's tight but it would be better IMHO. How many of these intakes do you have to mass produce?