madkaw

I believe we have the same ones. Just think about 35lb on a basically a 1/4" allen head. I'd go tight and safety wire. I also think the original bolts were hex head that could handle more torque at the head. Some of them will take the 35lbs, but they are on the ragged edge of stripping the head of the bolt

Latest pic of my progress. I believe I have the engine bay plumbed-but not tested. Fuel tank and pump is still getting sorted out. Swageloks are pretty cool and seemed to work as intended-again-waiting on pressure check. I REALLY hope I'm done under the car with running fuel lines-BUT- I still need to consider fuel venting. Don't really want to run a charcoal canister, but also don't want to just vent uncontrolled. Don't want my garage smelling like gas. I was actually thinking of using the original emissions valve that connected to the air filter on the early models. Let the pressure in the tank decide when to vent and let it vent to the intake track before the TB. Any thoughts?

Maybe you should look at my MS3X install thread. Covers a lot of your requirements. I am currently converting to FI, but I have started with ignition. There's a lot involved to changing from carb to FI, but I am in the process now. I started another thread showing the transition. Maybe you can get some ideas. I am trying to lay the ground work for programmable FI by starting off with a stock FI intake , then get educated enough to program ITB's . It's a steep learning curve-put your climbing shoes on

Sorry guys-I'm tapping out for now -bad timing for me.

Good luck trying to get 35lbs on those allen heads. I stripped one out trying and contacted futofab. Apparently the instructions weren't updated with the hardware update. 35lbs on a 1/4' bolt is high by any standard . I can't remember what we agreed on , but I'm almost positive it wasn't that high

I might just do away with the hard line all together on the FPR side and the fuel filter side will have the rubber line in the correct place

How are you liking those OERs ? You have a thread on that install?

I think it's enough, but might reconsider where it's placed. I might use rubber from rail to hardline so rubber has more side give. Right. Is movemant would be inline with the rubber line, so maybe it would be better to be perpendicular ? Either way I will have rubber connections from engine to chassis .

I've thought of going the same route , but I run dual pipes. Pros: redundancy - sensors do go bad , this would be a back up. Troubleshooting - one more tool Tuning- what if you want to run 5&6 a bit richer based on detonation issues - separate sensors would help verify More gauges in the cockpit to impress friends !! Cons - more money and more wiring

Got my pump installed into my tank - waiting on my sending unit. Everything is just sitting in there finishing mock up. Had to see how things lined up before cutting more holes in my floor. Just got my Swagelocks so they aren't installed . Used plan old copper compression fittings to mock up stuff and figure final sizing on hard lines with fuel filter. I think I am going to reinstall vent hard line under car to enable to run a proper purge vent system .

Trying to science out my fuel vent system . I do think I want to run a charcoal canister with purge valve. Weather permits my car gets driven a lot and I want it to vent properly with no fumes . Since I am in the conversion process to FI I might as well get this done . Lots of things to consider as far as location , type ( rear , front mounted ) , powered by what circuit in MS , purge valve . Lots of opinions on proper time to purge based on engine vacuum . Some purge based on engine temp and purge during warm up and shut off during warm running . I guess doesn't need constant purging. I guess I should plan on trying to reinstall OEM hard line to connect tank to whatever process I try. Take any suggestions

Unless things have changed here recently - MSA and Classic Datsun get there flares from the same vendor and they copies of bad copies. A couple of years ago I actually talked to the vendor who ADMITTED that they molds are old and need replaced, " but I still sell a bunch of them " I returned my set to Classic . Save yourself the pain - order the Marugens

Not much meat on the stock intake runners to bore out , so more of a matter of cleaning up. Depending on your head dictates what can it should be done with the runners. Again , very limited with stock intake. after market ECU - or you are just wasting your time.

Your just going to have to rearrange your priorities - you need to think about your Z fans !!

There's no magic bullet and no absolutes . There are builders running 11:1 successfully , but it's the small details that get it. No secret combos , just tuning and much research .

Dizeased over on CCZC does these de strokers all the time - I think he has done 3 . Could find 81-84 maxima and use that head on your L28 if you want junkyard CR!!

I've decided to use Swagelocks for all my connections . SS has limited my options ,but regardless the Swagelocks are a strong option. My areomotive fuelfilter came in as well as clamps and other things . Bad news is that my plastic fuel tank will not work . Not enough flat area on top to support pump lid . I ordered my new steel CJ -5 tank with straps and sending unit for a grand total of 130$ ! Being metal I can work any areas flat I need to, plus gives welding options. At least the supply line is done and I utilized the original supply line as a return - so no bending required:) So EFI upgrade plumbing costs: SS line = 50$ Swagelocks -= 100 Tank inc pump= 250 Fpr = 125$ Fuel filter = 85$ Fuel rail = 150 Injectors = 200$ New tank= 150 It's really starting to add up !

This one came from a 2/71 Has one crack , but no missing pieces . 125 shipped obo

Well just about finished running a 3/8" supply - that SUCKED ! Put it in OEM position in the tunnel and it was PITA - the SS did not help that either. Had to make new line rubber supports which to a little R&D time . Then there was loosening the wire harness and some brake lines - oh and the DS and ...... I managed to make the supply line long enough to reach the frame , so I need to make a second to go to the fuel rail. That should go faster . In hindsight I might have done zinc steel lines next time . That SS is like superman sh!t to bend . Going to start on the tank cutting next.

Bringing this thread back since I have considered the GF T-5. When I called GF they told me that you have to supply them with the ZX turbo trans for them to modify( core ?) They swap out internals with modified( treated or stronger materials for gears, etc..) WC parts. So shifter location stays the same as well as casing . Like stated the inputs and outputs are bigger so that's where the changes have to be made. Instead of a 1.3" output of the Nissan you go to the 1.5" this actually makes the fab work for a custom DS cheaper if you go with 1310 spicer joints . So then you have to change the spline on the clutch disc and pilot bearing to fit the bigger WC BUBBA from GF said the trans is good for 600hp . 3500$ to do the conversion on just the trans. GF also gives options on gearing with a little taller 1st & 2nd which makes for a close ration . I didn't realize this option was out there until recently . Considering there is no real machining or adapter plates needed by the installer and the trans just bolts in to our blocks I think it's a decent option. Since I already run the T5 my shifter already has been fitted to my chassis

Tim, Could you explain the adaptation process for the GF trans. I talked to Bubba there, but not sure he was the guy that builds the trans. So you have a standard T5 - larger - input/output ? Sounds like it takes some abuse

Yes you do Yours definitely seems to have more raspy tone

I have the same exact muffler set up- but twice as many https://youtu.be/0k7XEz_-KSI

If you want to run ITBs eventually you will want a TPS. Might see if the 240sx TPS will work with your TB. Another reason to have a full range sensor is for data logging . Trouble shooting and tuning would be easier with one more data point

Never made the connection. Just read what folks found here. My 1982 block was .019 above