madkaw

Nice numbers . I guess there's something true about that squish stuff I plan on at least 11:1 on my build but will be using the mn47 . I can get 93 out here so sounds like I'm good . Making that power with 34 all in also confirms my research . Congrats

I probably have one - I'll check when I get home

Watching

Sounds like your tentative plan would work for your goals . Just don't go wussy on the cam.

Advantage of these compared to OER FI ?

I like that fact that the HP on the 40's ! It's been said you can't make power with just 40's, but this seems very impressive .

Put me down. I'm tired of being paranoid that my car is going to roll away

I guess that's my question- so is a bracket and a cable that I am on the list for?

Love my AZC system too!

Delete

Why do you say small valves ? Doesn't the 42 have the larger valves? I anxious to see you diesel intake . I have one on the shelf that I would also like to use. They have larger diameter runners besides being long- 35mm

"Cheap one" is to drill your flywheel and use it with a gear tooth sensor. 30$ and your time . Of course this does mean pulling your trans , but the benefit is a very stable signal

Don't forget guys- this bar is way thicker so spacing between the mounting holes gets slim- thus a much thinner bushing. The bushing sticks out past the metal bracket slightly at the frame and is squished when tightening down the bar . I don't see how it could be any thicker unless the actual mount holes were wider

It's funny you say that Gira, because I've thought about that for the rear . Rear sway bar hits the boots on my WCR cv's under full droop. If I reduce end link lengths to clear boots then the sway bar hits control arm - ugh. Someone else suggested drool limiters but I know little about how to do it and the affect on my handling.

This ever happen ?

I have a n42 ready to install and it will be NA motor. MS3x already installed , just need to swap out . The hardest part will be saying good bye to my Mikunis

Its easier horse power vs. installing a new programmable ECU . Most guys opt to throw triples on then bigger injectors and a method to tune them. In the end the cost probably even out , and even the learning curve for some might be the same. Myself- I am about ready to do away with carbs and go for power the other route. There isn't that many builds here that I have read that go for NA FI power with a programmable ECU . Most stuff is turbo style

So you were running how much CR and wanted how much boost? Seems that the n47 head might be first issue. Why that head ?

It actually ran pretty decent with no noises . The chain was eating into the tensioner , plus it as stretching . Engine had less than 100k. Obvious lack of oil changes didn't help.

So what do you think was happening with the valve timing on this motor !

Here some pics of the stock sway bar in relation to the pump. The car is off the ground. So does this look like stock position for your bar? If the stock bar doesn't sit right ,then the bigger one won't and I have other issues. The one bolt from the oil pump hangs over the back half of the bar diameter. Stock spring perches with ST lowering springs

That's what I did- 1/2" . My point here is that it is advertised as a bolt on sway bar - NO MODS. So what if I had not noticed the bar laying on the oil pump at droop and when it was on the ground it cleared. I'm thinking I'm good until either I hear it banging or it takes out the oil pump . Don't want anyone falling into this mess if ST didn't put the kit together correctly. Or if I'm just doing something dumb, I want to know.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Again I ask how the engine mounts could affect this other than failure . I measured thickness of mine compared to brand new Nissan mounts on a 72 I am redoing. if the end links were taller - yes that would help- but pretty tall already. My plan today- if I have time - is to pull the sway bar and lay it next to the stock bar. It seems to me that the bends are not at the right angles - especially for the end links. These sway bars are hand bent , so always room for error.

For what? The mounts look solid and the front end isn't falling off. I could see how someone could miss this issue if they install this bar. Might not see the bar hitting the one bolt on the pump while its jacked up and then when on the ground the bar twists and clears the bar

If I had a place, I would take it for the head and trans