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Everything posted by madkaw
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AARRRGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!! This IAC is PITA--OMG, ready for the BFH. After getting on the forums at EFI and doing some board changes I got the stepper to operate. Now much of this was my fault because I had a broken pin on my connector and wouldn't you know it was one of the coil sides of this stepper. The guys on the MS forums help me thru that crisis, but still can't get it to operate the way it should. Basically it is working the opposite way I want it too. It idles faster as it gets warmer. Can't tell if it's tuner studio or wiring. I don't think MS does very well explaining things on setting up these IAC's. Jeep IAC madness.msq
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I believe 460 lift is max for stock springs
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Plug and Play Megasquirt Wiring Harness + sensors etc
madkaw replied to softopz's topic in Group Buys
Not trying to be a moderator here, but can this thread be rewritten in the vendor forum or here so it makes a little easier decifering ? Or if the original post can be edited . I was reading it today for someone who wants to order , and it was kind of hard to follow . Thanks -
Missed that page - thanks . That helps a bunch. Didn’t work with throttle plate closed , so next cold start might get it right
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This was the big question . I️ know it was partially open , but wasn’t sure that if that was the way it was designed. I️ could pinch the vacuum side and get the idle to come down .
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IAC made it's first test run today. I have no clue what I am doing as far as adjusting this thing -but have found a few write ups searching . Initially the idle slowly increased as the car warmed up, so I figured it was wired up backwards , so I switched the wires. I think I got that figured but the idle is still too high(2000 rpm). In test mode it showed fully closed on the guage-if that means anything. I guess I should establish whether this valve closes completely when it's closed. With my 240sx TB I have the throttle plate adjusted for idle, so if this IAC doesn't close all the way then I guess that's my issue. I guess I don't know if this IAC had complete control of idle on the Jeep TB's. Maybe my settings are just screwy? Can't stop fucking with it.msq
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
I think you can have a fun fast car without doing a compete engine swap. You have a short block that will take 300 on a regular basis from all I’ve read . 300 would be very fast and it sounds like you have a nice set up already. Of course this is Hybridz too:) -
2&4 are your major problems . Test will not be accurate at all with those two oops
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
I wouldn’t give the bottom end another thought if the oil was changed regular . These motors are as tough as it gets -
L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
Let’s add that someone on this site is selling basically plug and play MEGASQUIRT for these engines and some loaded tunes already ! -
L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
And I’m not pushing Megasquirt because there’s other options out there as far as controllers . I’m not a fan of the 4bbl intake -just on looks alone- and the intake you have should function well. There is good support here for MS and as you can see you can clean up the bay nicely . Cam selection is part of the whole equation , but I’d say go big or go home . These engines like to be cammed. CR will be low with that motor compared to a flat top. You could do every thing in steps. Get programmable EFI in first and then shoot for HP and hotter motor later -
L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
A lot of good info on this site about mods. Being a 75 your engine should have the preferred intake manifold on it - non webbed - non EGR. You could consider an aftermarket EFI ECU and save the cost and work of replacing your intake . I’m running that exact intake on my L24 with Megasquirt EFI with great results . Also running NA with a 490/290 cam . The possibilities are endless , so do your research and spend wisely. -
Saturn Electric Power Steering In A Datsun 280Z
madkaw replied to socorob's topic in Fabrication / Welding
Did you consider any other units besides the Saturn. I drive my sons BRZ and think I like the way it feels. I've seen a couple of threads started on this -
Have you looked at my MS3x install thread on this site?
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So your saying Matt that my plan is okay to run these IAC wires along side the sensor wires ? I have taken great measure to not have noise issues and so far I have had NO issues with my MS 3 and enjoying EFI life . Very happy to see my plugs looking like this with my 490/290 cam . Engine idles at 800 and has the same power as my triples !
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Well I ran 3/8” supply in stock location with engine and trans installed . Bitch? Yes! i used the fuel tank vent line for return - it’s big enough
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A lot of early Z’s had holes under the battery tray for A/C , that’s what I used . I also used the choke cable hole . I used the choke hole for sensor wiring ONLY . I fed all power and grounds under the battery. With MS there was two harnesses and almost 80 wires I think , but you don’t use all of them - more than likely - so I condensed inside the car and fed only necessary wires thru the firewall.
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Well the trigger wire on the MS3x harness was already shielded . The problem is that I DO WANT to run my IAC wires parallel for packaging reasons . I might be able to minimize this , but the most direct route is with my sensor bundle .Theres a local electronics store down the street ( lucky me), so I might see if they have some shielding
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I bought a used MILLER Syncrowave 210. Its above your budget , but I found it used for almost half retail with only a few hours on it. I have little tig experience , but this machine makes it easy . With inverter science it makes it small and I can do 110 or 220. Spool gun works better than I could have expected . Makes the pain of selling my Mikunis for a welder easier to swallow
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Well on to IAC . Car is running fantastic but it's starting to turn cold and start ups might need a little assist. I am going with the 4 wire IAC from the Jeep 4.0 DIY Tune makes a block for mounting the IAC valve . New Borg Warner selonoid is about 45$ and pigtail is 18$ at your local Oreillys . So far - besides pulling wires- the hardest part was figuring out a mounting bracket and a place to mount . Didn't want to drill holes and it has to somewhere to make running vacuum lines handy . Plus this hunk of aluminum is big! Right now my question that bugs me is whether running these wires close to my sensor wiring is going to cause noise. It sure would be handy to run the wires there, but so far noise has not been an issue and I want it to stay that way.
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Like said- guidelines . I would stay fat in key areas if heavier loading and go lean as you want cruising . I feel comfortable with 15 at cruise and 13:1 at WOT . Timing might be where the tuning might be critical or more critical than the fuel. I can post up my tune when I get on my laptop , but I'm pretty aggressive on my semi closed e88 head . I've had no detonation issues so far.