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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. A lot of good info on this site about mods. Being a 75 your engine should have the preferred intake manifold on it - non webbed - non EGR. You could consider an aftermarket EFI ECU and save the cost and work of replacing your intake . I’m running that exact intake on my L24 with Megasquirt EFI with great results . Also running NA with a 490/290 cam . The possibilities are endless , so do your research and spend wisely.
  2. Did you consider any other units besides the Saturn. I drive my sons BRZ and think I like the way it feels. I've seen a couple of threads started on this
  3. Have you looked at my MS3x install thread on this site?
  4. madkaw

    Ms3x install

    So your saying Matt that my plan is okay to run these IAC wires along side the sensor wires ? I have taken great measure to not have noise issues and so far I have had NO issues with my MS 3 and enjoying EFI life . Very happy to see my plugs looking like this with my 490/290 cam . Engine idles at 800 and has the same power as my triples !
  5. Well I ran 3/8” supply in stock location with engine and trans installed . Bitch? Yes! i used the fuel tank vent line for return - it’s big enough
  6. A lot of early Z’s had holes under the battery tray for A/C , that’s what I used . I also used the choke cable hole . I used the choke hole for sensor wiring ONLY . I fed all power and grounds under the battery. With MS there was two harnesses and almost 80 wires I think , but you don’t use all of them - more than likely - so I condensed inside the car and fed only necessary wires thru the firewall.
  7. madkaw

    Ms3x install

    Well the trigger wire on the MS3x harness was already shielded . The problem is that I DO WANT to run my IAC wires parallel for packaging reasons . I might be able to minimize this , but the most direct route is with my sensor bundle .Theres a local electronics store down the street ( lucky me), so I might see if they have some shielding
  8. I bought a used MILLER Syncrowave 210. Its above your budget , but I found it used for almost half retail with only a few hours on it. I have little tig experience , but this machine makes it easy . With inverter science it makes it small and I can do 110 or 220. Spool gun works better than I could have expected . Makes the pain of selling my Mikunis for a welder easier to swallow
  9. madkaw

    Ms3x install

    Well on to IAC . Car is running fantastic but it's starting to turn cold and start ups might need a little assist. I am going with the 4 wire IAC from the Jeep 4.0 DIY Tune makes a block for mounting the IAC valve . New Borg Warner selonoid is about 45$ and pigtail is 18$ at your local Oreillys . So far - besides pulling wires- the hardest part was figuring out a mounting bracket and a place to mount . Didn't want to drill holes and it has to somewhere to make running vacuum lines handy . Plus this hunk of aluminum is big! Right now my question that bugs me is whether running these wires close to my sensor wiring is going to cause noise. It sure would be handy to run the wires there, but so far noise has not been an issue and I want it to stay that way.
  10. Like said- guidelines . I would stay fat in key areas if heavier loading and go lean as you want cruising . I feel comfortable with 15 at cruise and 13:1 at WOT . Timing might be where the tuning might be critical or more critical than the fuel. I can post up my tune when I get on my laptop , but I'm pretty aggressive on my semi closed e88 head . I've had no detonation issues so far.
  11. Sounds like a good TEAM! I can vouch for Richards work . Richard is a great tutor to help you get over the learning curve with MS. So if you guys have ever considered switching to MS - this is a good time and team to do it with!
  12. I think your right Wheee, cut out like that will allow the tabs to lay flat, not sure what he is referring too. There's is no rea weight on the nose of the diff . i did mine like yours as a sandwich . I still get a thud occasionally so I must have something else going on. I also ran my diff just hanging from the RT mount without issue
  13. Just let the VEAL do its thing and don't worry about the generator for now. Run the VEAL and if doesn't look to crazy then save it
  14. I would take out the whole harness with the engine to sell as a package . You only need the hot ignition lead for the coil .
  15. Put some fuel to it ! I don't see where you got shit for AE -its flat lined . Check out mine for a NA . Can't stop fucking with it.msq
  16. Just go as sensitive as you can without have a constant enrichment on. Then start bumping up the percentage of the fuel shot. MS website had a good article about tuning accel enrichment here lately.
  17. From memory - don't think this is the same valve arrangement
  18. Care to share what pistons are from ? Or were these custom made? Deck height?
  19. I've been on the road - but I'll look today
  20. I've got one but off of a zx- have to see if their the same . I believe they are , but the ZXT might have had more plumbing
  21. The key word here is OFFSET. If Dave takes the rod journal and cuts it smaller but to the outside of the center line then he has increased the stroke. He explained to me that the Nissan L24 rod with LD crank make for a crappy RS ratio. So he cuts down the rod journals smaller but OFFSET as to gain stroke at the same time decreasing weight. He then uses the Honda type rod which works with that journal size. He can use a longer rod which decreases side loading and gives more TDC time. So basically the altering of the RS ratio is by the increased stroke and rod length. And yes he is doing tall deck motors too. I sold him my diesel block for him to build some super motor.
  22. Sweet- I never seen one of the covers until now. Could of used it for my 70 restore - thanks a lot - lol Good dea on the battery!
  23. I believe the idea is that decreasing the size of the journal by offset grinding allows for a longer rod which increases the RS closer to a preferred 1.7 :1. I don't know exact length of rod he uses so I can't do the math. But 133 divided by 83= 1.6:1 So if he can get away with a 138mm rod, then your closer to 1.7 . Plus less side load on the piston walls . This is my understanding - which might be way off, but no hard numbers to do the actual math.
  24. I also had a bad experience with SI . Wouldn't pass a hardness test that the machinist did- he wouldn't use them .
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