madkaw

Only thing I found locally was a nylon reducer . Not sure what it is heat rated at but time will tell. Need to get a heat sheid done now

So after getting some highway miles in I think I will have to deal with heat soak issue now. I had a hard start the other day after a 50 mile trip. I know I have to do certain things for sure. Heat shield- I'm not running one. I have ceramic coated headers which do pretty well , but need to make shield IAT Sensor - GM style sitting on top of intake . I think I will try a plastic adapter first before I try and change position . For some reason when I opened up the hole where the cold start injector was I opened it up all the way to 1/2" NPT. GM sensor is 3/8" NPT , so presently I run a brass adapter. I think I will run a plastic adapter so that the sensor is not touching the intake. I will see how that turns out. Highway AFRs were spot on 15 and the engine hummed along beautifully . MPG seems pretty good and hope to have solid numbers after a long trip.

I just went for the TPS that had only one connector. Why would you want two , you only need one

Well sometimes you just wing it, but advancing the cam woke this engine up -earlier- . Now at 9 degrees advance I probably made up for chain slack , head shave . Yes it's a butt dyno, but with the cam retarded I couldn't chirp the tires thru the gears , but now I can - just like I did with the triples . I did notice that my AFRs went lean after the cam adjustment, so that is a good thing. Added more fuel (point and click) and power with higher VEs . So though there is a bit of difference between triples and this plenum , it is negligible by the butt dyno. I know - put it on the dyno- I'm close

That would be the easiest way if it worked. I'd have to see the lines side by side to see if they would line up. SS would be a bitch to tweak if you have to

Trucks are out even with roomy crew cabs and camper shells? Of course you would want a newer version direct injection for mpg and just better built and that will bust the budget. Loving my Colorado crew cab and fold down seats make for many options . My buddy who works on and drives a M3 said to stay away from BMW - trans stuff gets very pricey.

240sx

I wish I did or could have degree'd the cam, but the motor was in the car which makes it really hard to do. I think I have a good idea how close I am the numbers since I did previously did a proper degreeing of the cam. i'd be curious of others that have shaved a head this much with NO shims and how far off the timing was .

New Zed is correct in that the thread was about discussing my butt feel of the power curve. And for reference I was running the shorty Mikuni intake so runner length is pretty close. If I was to guess what the outcome of this switch of induction system I would have guessed more torque down low and running out of steam higher rpm- but really seems opposite . Not that I knew what I was talking about , but I thought it would make for good discussion. I will be advancing the cam timing to see what affect that has on things. I'd like to get the engine to where it seems to be tapering on power towards red line- but now it seems to wake up later then the Mikunis and pull harder the further into the rpms.

Sound is a mute point- I ran the CAI so there was no induction noise. Ignition was previously run by MS-so that has not changed. Cam timing I did change but I believe not enough. It seems power comes on around 4K instead of 3K+ previously-very distinctive on the butt dyno. I believe with the additional cut on the head I have retarded timing beyond where I was, but I didn't degree cam this time around. The head shave of .020 I thought I would notice, and maybe I do at the higher RPM. It seems what I lost at lower rpm the engine makes up for now at higher rpm. It pulls hard right to rev limiter-6900rpm. Tuning make play out more power since I have lots to learn

You mean like the one on the left in this pic ? Canon manifold

I saw that- very nice. I was contemplating the same project - with TIG now in hand it would be fun to be creative like that. I've been holding on to some old intakes for practice . Not done messing with plenum style intakes yet.

I will add that my 40's had 32 chokes compared to the 31mm runners on the N42. I actually thought the plenum would feel more torquey down low and Peter out higher rpm , but it seems just the opposite . Maybe apples to orange comparison , since I don't have a cam to optimize the N42. I also can't say that I have the tune on the N42 optimized, but WOT AFR is very consistent ( beauty of MS). So I am considering bumping the cam advance some more , though I will be getting close to a whole tooth :0. I do plan on getting to the dyno, but want to work some more with my tune. I know my accel enrichment might need some work, but at WOT that shouldn't be a factor . I have another plenum that I need to complete that will be completely different - tapered runners and a bigger plenum, that should change things up some more. Do I expect the N42 to run the same as the triples , not really . But I think I should be able to get close with the tuning advantage I have with MS .

Wasn't sure how to title this thread - but here it goes , Just swapped out my triple Mikunis 40's for MS controlled N42 intake. Why? because ready to move on. Basic engine parameters haven't changed much. Head was shaved another .020 to bump CR. Characteristics of my performance have changed in the way the engine pulls. Triples hit hard and performance thru rpms seemed pretty linear . Engine pulled hard all the way to redline ,7000 from as low as 3000. N42 is more turbo effect or non linear and pulls hard later . I have a little stretch of road that I've done many hard runs on 0-100mph, and comparing the two I would say that that the two different set ups get to 100mph about the same time, but the N42 seems less torquey? I would thought of just the opposite thinking about the engine it was designed for, but I realize it's about the complete package. I had my isky 490/290 on #2 cam hole to get intake closing correct , but now I am on #3 now. With a total of + .055 head shave , maybe I need more cam advance to bring my power band down , or maybe the reality is that I will never get the same performance curve between these two induction systems. I did NOT degree my cam second time around . I shaved another .020 off head to bump ,,CR and thought it would need another bump in advance valve timing. I have a Nismo gear on there which would give me #4 or 8 degrees before I would need to advance a whole tooth??

Amen

Sorry I let this thread for dead, but swap is complete . A lot of things could have gone wrong here but somehow the L gods were good to me and it all came together. The N42 bolted up , but I worried about the lack of support for the inner runners 3&4 where they bolt to the head. I've had no vacuum leaks so it must have seated well enough. Ive shaved off .050+ off this head , no shins. I dropped the cam (towers and all) from the top of my workbench, No leaks - no real issues , just fun tuning - on a laptop!! The driving experience is a bit different . The Mikunis seem to hit harder during WOT , but the EFI is right there - it comes on a little less linear as far as power. No raw fuel smells !!! Quiet in tank fuel pump!! Tuning is much more fun and a lot less work . No looking back for me. Need to get to the dyno and see how the numbers look.

I'm going to Panama City on vacation in August- maybe meet you and take me for a ride?! I probably won't ever do a LS1 conversion , but would love to feel 500 hp in a Z. Congrats

Okay- I'm a dumb ass. I had the setting to just content I participated in under new content . Must have done that by accident because I didn't even know I could . So I was living in my own little Hybridz world

So far so good on my fuel tank vent set up. I haven't experienced any fuel smells so far . I knew it would be less getting away from the Mikuni open Float bowls, but wasn't sure about pressure build up in the gas tank. Eventually I would like to put a charcoal canister in line for storage for when the car sits for longer periods and the venting fuel has no where to go because the engine isn't running to suck the fumes out.

I admit I don't post as much but I try to continue my threads for info to be available to future z builders. Life gets in the way for sure.

Changed my settings in New Content- didn't even know I could . I'm not very observant - maybe the wife is right- lol

Jeff , Do yourself a favor and contact Richard( chickenman) to help you out . If that part of the tune is wrong, other parts of the tune are also probably wrong . I am also old school and just converted to MS3 on my L24. Richard helped me to get the ball rolling. He can walk you thru a tune and knows MS well enough to get me tuned in one evening. It was a basic tune so I can enjoy my car while I learn more. An hour an half conversation and some team viewer work and I was driving to Coffee and Cars the next day. It's a steep learning curve to make the change, but you should be able to enjoy your ride while you are learning

So I'm not seeing the new posts everyday . I have a direct link in for 'new content' , so maybe that's the issue. I see something under new content maybe every other day ? Hate to think everyone has resorted to FB for their Datsun fix . I don't mind the quick fix on FB, but no good discussions or projects to follow.

Never seems to be any new content when I check in. Has everyone gone to Facebook to post?

Trim pot would be nice for cold idle warm up time. I actually thought about a manual idle air control in form of a knob to control an air bleed to raise idle speed during cold starts! Really enjoying the MS ! Tuning is actually fun again - lol