madkaw

Ever get your timing checked?

Have you verified with a timing light?

What reads 10 degrees while cranking-timing light?

Wow, great info to use. So a Chrylser DS for the torqueflite trans has the same input spline, but it's OD is bigger then the Nissan T-5? I don't have nor can I aquire a new bushing for the Nissan t-5, so pressing out the old one gets me nothing except maybe something to match.

Once again, Tony's advice was spot on. Using the red loctite is not the best method. I drove the car after sitting for months and it started the hesistating again. I pulled the bleed pipes and 4 or 5 of the pipes had bleed holes that opened up again. It only took one hole to open up on each bleed pipe to make a difference. At first I thought it might have been from transitioning to the megasquirt ignition, but the characteristics were too similiar. I guess I will solder them at this point. What has worked pretty well is the balance tube for a signal to my MAP sensor. I have read that with a ITB set-up the signal is too jumpy to tune with, but my signal seems very stable. It's really cool to watch it in real time on the laptop! I would really like to change the mounting set-up for the tube though. I want to clean up all the hoses running everywhere and get the balance tube right down on the intake. I have been searching for pneumatic quick disconnects to direct mount the tube to the intake. Being able to quickly disconnect the tube would facilitate quicker tunes. I have a 'clamp' that pinches all the runner hoses for when I am balancing the carbs, but it is a bit cumbersome. It would probably be a bitch to try and quick disconnect 6 runners at the same time though-LOL It will be interesting how the tune goes now that I have full control of ignition. I have looked at Lazeums ignition table and know that I can go way more on the advance at cruise. I have thrown in numbers for now and the engine runs pretty damn good so far. I will be curious how much I can lean out things now that I can advance the timing with so much control. My only concern is that the MAP sensor loading scale is narrow. It seems that other then very light cruise, loading shows in a very narrow band of 80-100%, which is going to make tuning a challenge. Since I haven't done this type of tuning, not sure if this is normal or a symptom of my Mikuni's and the balance tube. Will repositioning of the balance tube closer to the intake make any difference in the signal?

New look of the MS3 engine bay

So I have been playing around with the tuning and so far so good. I have advanced all regions of the table and my MAP reading seem stable enough to tune with. I need to taek my son with me and have him man the laptop and plug in numbers on the roll-especially for cruise. Cleaned up the engine bay for some pretty pics.

I have someone that is going to lend me his to take the fab guy, but I haven't had time to meet up with him. It is still on the agenda!!

It's not the same. I think you are underestimating the importance of proper grounding. Not trying to be a dick, just emphazing this. You bypass all the noise created in a chassis ground by going directly to the block. There is a thing called a ground loop you need to research.

I was hoping to find one to replicate. I'm sure one could be made, but this sure complicates things.

Well I have come to a dead end. I can not find a replacement bushing anywhere. Not sure what my options are now.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48901-new-look-flares-mirrors.html

Thanks for the response . I did get a hold of Lazeum who has done a bit of work with his hot NA with triples running Megajolt. It look like his maps will help me a bunch. Your right about too many variables trading msq

grounding is everything from what i read. You might want to rethink the basics -as in grounding- before you troubleshoot anymore. I might have gone overboard(see my ms3x thread), but I didn't want this to be an issue and MS stressed this a lot. Good luck and hope I helped

When I see- ground wires for coils, being connected to the sensor ground for the MS ,and that is all connected to a chassis ground, I see everything that MS tells you NOT to do. Sensor ground is for sensors-ONLY. I didn't use a chassis ground for anything, everything goes to the engine block. Maybe it's just your wording, but thats the way I read it.

The pull up resistor difference might be because your are using direct ignition voltage. Read those pages carefully-don't want to mislead anyone. At first I was getting rpm for crank and idle and then it went away, so then I started reading.

Yes, you CANNOT rebuild these DS's. Be prepared to spend about 300$ for a new DS!! The mount or something has to be moved slightly to accommodate the longer trans. Mine is hardly noticeable because I modified the mount and cross member. Your pics are too big.

I have been flogging the internet for hours trying to aquire info regarding this. Why, because i can grab my DS at the yoke closest to the tailshaft and get lot's of movement along with audible clunk(though not loud), that's with just my hands-eek! I've been chasing a high speed vibration forever and the DS has been checked and balanced twice. The problem is that the Nissan T5 is an oddity with a 1.3" tailshaft vs. the Ford 1.5". so parts don't interchange. I have found the seal which is SKF 13958 and that info was found on this site as well as others. The bushing/sleeve in the tail shaft keeps everything tight and square and I am trying to order now from Drivetrain.com-part# 301396 Another issue with this project is finding someone that can replace it. Most trans shops are set up for doing the Ford T5 and have the appropriate puller, but it won't work on the smaller tail shaft. For a Ford, this job can be done with the trans in the car and a couple of hours. The other option is pulling the trans and separating the case and pressing out the bushing-well we know how much work that is. So can anyone add to this or your experience? There's a Z guy on the CTZCC that started a really nice thread on this with pics and all, but never finished the thread;( I'm in the process of trying to contact him now, so I'll let you know how that goes.

You might want to read this: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 This line also bother me: Ground wire is grounding all coils to the same place as the sensor ground for megasquirt (chassis)

Don't have enough experience to help much, but my set up has been rock steady. I will say that with my 3.57 board i had to install a pull up resistor and a jumpers + pot changes for my hall sensor to work properly. It was a bit confusing to understand what MS wanted as far as board requirements for what sensor. I run a 1K resisitor for pull up voltage, but I use the 3X harness which uses a 5v wire. Which sensor exactly are you using?

Most of those maps were for the boosted guys, not much for my ignition only NA. My question was more towards trying to figure out how to share files. Sounds like you need to be running the same firmware to just swap out maps. I was expecting in the software that you could build several maps and be able to swap them out, but not sure I see that ability. I also realize that there isn't an easy "fix' for this. I am using the 'generic" table 1 that MS supplies and the car runs pretty good, but I imagine that the curves are very reserved.

Okay- help me figure where to find info on map sharing. Like a how to section, I can't find it.

Any more info on this thread? I think this sleeve/bearing might be bad on my trans. I can get movement with the DS by grabbing it right at the tailshaft. I can move it slightly with a corresponding clunk. This has probably been my vibration issue at high speed.

Cleaned up the wiring and called it a wrap!! some pics