madkaw

Hate to speculate whether the changes are big -especially the butt dyno. I haven't done enough tuning, but I am amazed how well it runs-PERIOD! I spent very little time with the numbers and it accelerates and cruise better then ever. Not a glitch-hope I didn't just jinx myself-LOL I believe I do see about 60 kpa at idle. OTHER then idle it seems a narrow range and as you said it will be a struggle with the ITB syndrome. BUT, the balance tube is doing it's job especially as far as giving me a stable signal. I need to hook up my datalog wire to a switch so I can start datalogging. The other thing that's really stable is my rpm signal-so my flywheel sensor is doing it's job!

What happen to this project?

I run 3.90 gears with my BW T-5 with an L24. Yes the first gears are low, but does it bother me -no. Because of the spread between 2nd and 3rd, 3rd gear makes for a great passing gear. But might be comparing apples to oranges an NA to a turbo motor. I know I like the trans because of it's shifting smoothness. Not sure why you think you are at a crossroads. Changing diffs is an easy process. Your bigger issue -if you haven't already considered this-is that trans needs a dedicated DS from the turbo car, which in turn has a dedicated flange for the Diff. So you might have more issues then you think.

Definetly sounds like somethings going on like a miss or something. You need to install an o2 sensor to eliminate fuel issue. Could be running lean at top end. I'm probably running running your numbers with my L24.

Could this be a simple ignition issue? What ignition are you running? Can you feel the fall off of power or hear it?

With the MS3 I only needed 2 relays wired to power the ECU and the fuel pump. You should already have both relays and you will need to tap into them. You need to study your cars wiring diagram and find where your ignition powers too. If you really want to know how the MS works with your cars wiring , you need to beable to do this part of the wiring. Study the megamanual

Are you using a standard timing light or advance light. Try to get it right on 10 degrees. My trigger angle is 285 degrees, so it doesn't matter where it's at as long as it jives with your settings. I can't open your file but make sure you are using the right spark setting. I imagine you should be set on wasted spark, not semi sequential.

If you know anything about wiring and relays you could save money by NOT getting the relay board and cable. You could use that money to get the trigger wheel. The relays should already be there on your car, just need to have the leads changed.

Please build this 700hp monster and document everything here please. We need a thread like this since we haven't had any in a while. Wish I had some info to contribute, but I'm not as knowledgable as these other guys with the turbo stuff . From what I have read , Jeff P stopped wasting a lot of money and time on the blocks because these lower ends could handle that hp levels, but the rest of the motor needed help. Good luck

Ever get your timing checked?

Have you verified with a timing light?

What reads 10 degrees while cranking-timing light?

Wow, great info to use. So a Chrylser DS for the torqueflite trans has the same input spline, but it's OD is bigger then the Nissan T-5? I don't have nor can I aquire a new bushing for the Nissan t-5, so pressing out the old one gets me nothing except maybe something to match.

Once again, Tony's advice was spot on. Using the red loctite is not the best method. I drove the car after sitting for months and it started the hesistating again. I pulled the bleed pipes and 4 or 5 of the pipes had bleed holes that opened up again. It only took one hole to open up on each bleed pipe to make a difference. At first I thought it might have been from transitioning to the megasquirt ignition, but the characteristics were too similiar. I guess I will solder them at this point. What has worked pretty well is the balance tube for a signal to my MAP sensor. I have read that with a ITB set-up the signal is too jumpy to tune with, but my signal seems very stable. It's really cool to watch it in real time on the laptop! I would really like to change the mounting set-up for the tube though. I want to clean up all the hoses running everywhere and get the balance tube right down on the intake. I have been searching for pneumatic quick disconnects to direct mount the tube to the intake. Being able to quickly disconnect the tube would facilitate quicker tunes. I have a 'clamp' that pinches all the runner hoses for when I am balancing the carbs, but it is a bit cumbersome. It would probably be a bitch to try and quick disconnect 6 runners at the same time though-LOL It will be interesting how the tune goes now that I have full control of ignition. I have looked at Lazeums ignition table and know that I can go way more on the advance at cruise. I have thrown in numbers for now and the engine runs pretty damn good so far. I will be curious how much I can lean out things now that I can advance the timing with so much control. My only concern is that the MAP sensor loading scale is narrow. It seems that other then very light cruise, loading shows in a very narrow band of 80-100%, which is going to make tuning a challenge. Since I haven't done this type of tuning, not sure if this is normal or a symptom of my Mikuni's and the balance tube. Will repositioning of the balance tube closer to the intake make any difference in the signal?

New look of the MS3 engine bay

So I have been playing around with the tuning and so far so good. I have advanced all regions of the table and my MAP reading seem stable enough to tune with. I need to taek my son with me and have him man the laptop and plug in numbers on the roll-especially for cruise. Cleaned up the engine bay for some pretty pics.

I have someone that is going to lend me his to take the fab guy, but I haven't had time to meet up with him. It is still on the agenda!!

It's not the same. I think you are underestimating the importance of proper grounding. Not trying to be a dick, just emphazing this. You bypass all the noise created in a chassis ground by going directly to the block. There is a thing called a ground loop you need to research.

I was hoping to find one to replicate. I'm sure one could be made, but this sure complicates things.

Well I have come to a dead end. I can not find a replacement bushing anywhere. Not sure what my options are now.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48901-new-look-flares-mirrors.html

Thanks for the response . I did get a hold of Lazeum who has done a bit of work with his hot NA with triples running Megajolt. It look like his maps will help me a bunch. Your right about too many variables trading msq

grounding is everything from what i read. You might want to rethink the basics -as in grounding- before you troubleshoot anymore. I might have gone overboard(see my ms3x thread), but I didn't want this to be an issue and MS stressed this a lot. Good luck and hope I helped

When I see- ground wires for coils, being connected to the sensor ground for the MS ,and that is all connected to a chassis ground, I see everything that MS tells you NOT to do. Sensor ground is for sensors-ONLY. I didn't use a chassis ground for anything, everything goes to the engine block. Maybe it's just your wording, but thats the way I read it.