madkaw

This is what I am going by; he gear-tooth sensor is a variant of the hall sensor - the key difference is that it has a magnet built into it and switches when close to steel, no external magnets are required. This makes them very easy to use. These are almost exclusively a three wire sensor. In CAS (crank angle sensor) units a multiplug may be used to combine multiple sensors. The sensor itself acts like a switch to ground when close to steel. The gear-tooth sensor requires a supply voltage which is usually 12V from a fused 12V supply or 5V from the TPSREF output of the Megasquirt. The sensor is then grounded at the Megasquirt and the third wire connects to the tach input. Typical use of geartooth sensor with steel trigger wheel. When a steel tooth passes the sensor it grounds the output. (0V) At other times, the output is inactive. (The pullup in the ECU will make this 5V.) A commonly used sensor is the 1GT101DC from Honeywell. This is rated from -40C to +150C. The Megasquirt board needs to be set for VR input. V3.0 VR+pullup setting - V3.57 VR+pullup setting (Note, that previous Megasquirt versions may have used the optoisolator input, but for better high frequency response with toothed wheels and to match the input on the MS3X card, it is advised to use the VR circuit.) The Megasquirt main board has provision to adjust the trigger threshold on the input signal - these is by two small potentiometers inside the case. These are labelled R52 and R56. Using a small screw driver, carefully turn both about 12 turns anti-clockwise. (There is no dead-stop, but you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.)) Then rotate R56 a few turns clockwise.

Okay- did some studying on this no rpm signal. Apparently I have the wrong settings on tuner studio for my ignition trigger setting/ sensor. I am using this http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/Speed_Direction/gs1001_1004.htm Which I considered a Hall effect sensor, but I guess technically speaking its a VR sensor and that's what MS wants. Not sure how I was getting a rpm signal earlier. I am away from my car so I can't test this, but the megamanual seems to be clear that my sensor is a VR

I had my coil harness on backwards, so the rear coil was firing while testing the front coil--oops. So I get past test mode on the coils and I try and test timing during cranking--NO spark. Then I notice that I have lost my rpm reading--WTF 1 step forward-2 steps back.

Okay-during test mode, when I hit start -the coil buzzes, that was at a ONE coil test. During sequence it still just sounded like one coil buzzing but I had spark plugs attached to the coil wires and PUFF-it lit off fuel vapors in one of the cylinders. I want to check timing during cranking, but I'm afraid the engine will fire off with all the fuel thats in the carbs. So leave off all but number 1 coil wire?

I meant -200 rpm is what my rpms are showing during cranking-is that how fast the starter actually cranks the engine? Also trying to do the coil output test. Do you crank the engine during test mode and how do you know the test is successful? Can I use an advance timing light to verify timing?

I guess my cam input was set to MAP sensor, which is incorrect. Changed it to MS3x and all is right with the world!!!!!!!!!!! IS 200 rpm about right for cranking rpm?

I think I am attaching my tune here-test Well that didn't work

Shooting for complete stock replacement

I am waiting for someone to lend me his dash to take it to the fabricator. The fabricator is finishing up a Porsche 996 CF dash now, looks pretty sweet. I will be interested to see what he says about the Z dash. I told him, it's all or nothing as far as the dash, no cover. I'm also taking a center console to go with it!

I did set it to Event average and still got the message. I can't post up my setting yet. I had to use my sons laptop(windows) to connect with the MS, because my netbook(Linux OS) wouldn't. When I get it back(laptop) , I can post something. He's filling out a questionaire for Harvard, don't want to disturb that Little more background though. I was able to calibrate all my sensors, but need to check to make sure I have the right MAP sensor listed. I had DIY install the MAP Daddy inside the MS3 box, and not sure I have the right one burned to tuner. The water and air temps were reasonable. No rpm signal, but not sure if I have that setting right. I am using a Hall gear sensor, on a 36-1 tooth wheel(drilled flywheel). The AFR gauge is sitting at 14.7, but the megamanual said until the engine runs, it could be anything? Anyways, pretty damn exciting to get this far!

Lenny, i guess I forgot to send my response to your PM on CZCC, but I have that 83 AFM, just need your address.

Help with error message; MAP phase detection requires 1,2 cyl,dual missing, wasted -COP and windowed MAP Not sure what MS is trying to say here. Is it all one error or several errors

Not sure how to answer the wiring question. You should always use relays for high amp stuff. The megamanual will advise you what to use current driver wiring for. MS will control about anything you cam imagine, but can only direct power a few things. I am not using an electric fan.

I decided to tidy up some of my wiring. I had too much wire coming off of my relays and things were getting cluttered around the battery cables. I also got my IAT installed in my CAI(bottom left) and wired up. I ran my 5v lead out to the end of my box for a TPS if I decide to install one on my triples. Cam sensor wire is there too for future install. I installed my hall sensor which you can't see, but it is set -up for sensing the flywheel. Didn't get any pics inside the car, but things are getting tidy there too. With the center console out I took time to shorten and stash wires in better places. It's hard to believe but I think I am ready to go thru the check list to get this puppy started. Waiting on my MS cable so I can plug into my laptop so i can get started on settings

Metro, thanks for the reply. The output wire from the Hall sensor is black--never like twisting a black and white together, but I guess i need too:) Well I was able to at least test the iginition ON with my MS, and I guess I have that wired right since my Wideband came on and so did my fuel pump small victory-I know, but still. The pump shut off after just a few seconds since the MS sensed no rpms. Now waiting on my cable.

Dam the luck, I'm ready to plug in my laptop and i don't have the right harness to do it with-argh

Need help!! Trying to figure out my wiring for my Hall sensor. The MS3x has the sheilded VR/Hall sensor wire with a black and white in the sheilding. So what wire should be signal and which one is ground? I guess I could Assume white is signal, but don't want to assume anything.

You got a hell of a deal, I paid around 400$ shipped

Whatever you do or make a copy of- use good templates like Shoukia . I had owned those and the cheapie copies, there is no comparison . Cheapies crack because they don't fit right. Shoukia's just lay up against the body. I wouldn't mind seeing a weld able metal flare though!!

I like the link Metro put up. I was considering doing the same thing but wasn't sure how I was going to trigger the hall sensor. The tab would work well! I would prefer to do something off of the dizzy shaft just because it would be out of sight , but the hall sensors are small enough it wouldn't matter. I went this route for my crank sensor, but haven't got my MS up and running yet.

:rolleyesg :rolleyesg

Having a growing respect for you guys have done this job and make it look good too! Things are getting really wirey in the engine compartment. Pretty much wrapped up the power side of things, now starting the sensor side. getting closer to plugging things in and see if they blow :0 Decided to use this temp sensor fitting off of a 83zx engine I had. Pretty piece that cleaned up well! I have a new GM sensor, but the threads won't match, so I guess I will calibrate the stock sensor.

I thought I would give this a shot anyways before I try ebay or JY. Just need 2

Am I missing it or is there a color code key for the ms3x harness. It's a bitch reading the spark wires. Sam-it seems the supplied schematic is easier to understand when reading instructions-especially when MS specifies grounding through the MS. I understand your point though.

Here's why there is some confusion for me with the ground issue. I have attached the schematics that were supplied with my ms3x. They differ from the schematics available on line-especially sensor ground. Sometimes when I am posting I am not at home and I am referencing the on line stuff with my questions. I think the supplied schematic is better and easier to understand. I am glad to know that I also had the sensor ground pulled and seperated already, so I don't need to repull wires!!!