madkaw

Well had to reprogram my Innovate wideband to put out a wideband signal to both outputs. Now everything works -except the tach at this point(car tach) All inputs from my MS are rock solid- car idles as perfect as it use to with my ZX dizzy. I have already removed the dizzy and coil and all wires. This has really cleaned up my engine bay. I still haven't driven the car yet- it's flooding around here

So I had 2 hours to play with too much I wanted to do. I decided to try and sync up my wideband reading. Well in 2 hours I managed to have no reading in my car and erratic reading in Tuner. The only good thing that happened was that I changed over my timing to the generic table 1 on Tuner, and the engine sounded fantastic!! I almost forgot that I switched over from the fixed timing so when it started it sound different right away. It's not until I looked at the timing gauge did I notice. So with a little apprehension I stabbed the throttle a couple of times - man did it sound good. What that tells me is that not much has changed as far as how the engine runs and that any crazy gauge reading should be scrutinized-like the AFRs. Can't wait to drive her again

Not enough time to play. I started it up again and this time(just danced around like a fool the first time) I decided to actually look at the laptop to see if my gauges looked like they are reading what they should. Temps looked good for coolant and air. But for some reason my car temp gauge stop working. I didn't mess with it because I am taking temp from a different location-weird. The MAP gauge seemed very responsive, which I believe is good- reading 60KPA during idle. Most importantly my rpms seem rock steady. My AFR's didn't match up though. In car gauge was reading piggy rich around 10.3 at idle. MS gauge was around 13-- which is where it was idling before I started this. Of course now I am running my wideband grounds thru the MS. I didn't get a chance to separate the heater and gauge grounds on the wideband, maybe that's the issue. I believe I have my timing synced. I had my timing locked in at 20 and my timing light concurred. I might be ready to put in some timing tables-scary.

Found this little obscure thread after much searching http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/36969-converting-four-wire-tacho-current-driven-electronic-tacho.html

Thanks Zed, that helps. I was reading that the early tachs operated differently and wondered if Sam was using a 280z tach with the tach adapter for that reason or just that he has that year car. I think using a COP system complicates this for me too. I know this isn't a big deal, but it did dampen my party of getting my engine running. Don't really want to drive the car without a tach to look at.

So a tach adapter will work on an early 71 tach? So what does the Tacho wire on the 3X board do? Not sure why I am having an issue finding info on this, but I am.

So there's no way to get the stock Tach to work? Didn't plan that very well

I did realize after getting the car started I had no Tach-on my car. Didn't even think about it until now. Looked briefly at the megamanual but didn't see much to address this. Back to the books.

Timing is in the ballpark, but I will get it. I am running carbs so no fuel settings to mess with. I was getting to wonder if my fuel pump was running during cranking(hard to hear), but guess it was.

IT RUNS So I started over again double checking everything. I went to test mode on ignition and fired off each coil to make sure they corresponded with my firing order-----oops. I had 3&4 coils mixed up. I must have got my wires crossed from the 3x board -easy fix! I tried starting it again with my #1 cylinder angle at 280, she wasn't getting it--but I didn't smell fuel. So I pumped the crap out of the pedal to make sure i had fuel and bang--she started. It idled pretty well, but I can tell my timing is not where I like it. One thing that had made getting my timing right is that I have an advance light- It just adds confusion when trying to making sense of your timing. I basically ran out of time to mess with my timing, but I know I can get it. I will tweak my angle degrees until things match up exact. It was assume to hear the engine run after all this work!

Thanks Matt-I will keep that in mind. Well had my box set up per megamanual installing the drop resisitor and install the jumpers. I also installed a drop resistor across the leads for the Hall sensor. RPM's are back and seem stable at cranking speed. So I moved on the check timing at crank speed. Well that didn't work as predicted. I set Tuner at 10 degrees for cranking and couldn't find the timing marks with my timing gun. At this point I am guessing I had the wrong angle for #1 , so I started throwing different angles in until I could see the marks with my timing light. I "thought" had my flywheel set-up for 50 degree angle, but by the time I messed around with the numbers in tuner studio I was at 275 degrees. Don't know what I did there, but I did finally get the timing light to show 10 degrees to match crank timing. I need to do so more studying, but I don't believe this is an issue. I felt brave enough to try and start the car with a fixed advance of 20 degrees, but she wouldn't go. My battery was starting to get fatigued too. I also noticed that the light in my wideband gauge was flickering or pulsing with the cranking of the engine. Not sure I like that because the wideband is fed power from my aux fuse block that also powers my MS. Never saw that before and not sure what gives there. I decided to put the battery on a charger and do some more reading. Any input would be appreciated.

I'm surprised this is the first you have dealt with this issue. Good luck , I haven't read many success stories of welding with this issue.

Well don't feel bad guys, it seems to be the major culprit in with ECU issues-OEM and aftermarket. I'd like to brag and say my set-up is working perfect, but if you have read my thread you would see I am still stuck at this point. The direction I went of drilling the flywheel was an attempt to avoid all issue like this, but..... I think once I get my MS wired correctly for my sensor I might be okay. Just got off the phone with a buddy who had all kinds of issues with his Jeep-CPS. It was replaced by the dealer but installed wrong by the technician, so thinking that was not the issue, he spent money trying to fix other things. Turned out that the EXACT procedure for install was not followed which varied the gap ever so slightly and caused miss-fire codes.

Well I went with this issue to the MS forums, but not getting much response. I'm not sure what to expect from the forums being a newbie. So do the DIY pundents or owners respond to issues on the forum, or are the responses by users only? I was hoping for more direct support, but maybe I am missing something. In the end I went with the megamanual instructions without a direct confirmation from anyone really. The issue I am refering to is using the Hall effect sensor and appropiate board changes. It only amounts to jumpering to points and adding a resistor, but I am having someone else do it. I was just hoping that someone on the forum would chime in and say YES, you are correct on your assumption. After looking inside the MS box(which I never wanted to do-ever), I saw items that were too small for me to be comfortable with altering. Big hands, weak eyes, no resistors dictated that I take it down the road. Now I have to wait for it to be done to move on.

From what I have researched you need a box for pressurizing. Not just a 2x4- something to disperse the air evenly thru all cylinders . Ignition control- spend the money on mega jolt or something to make effective ignition curves and save your engine. Better yet, get a MS 2 unit to control everything but fuel, boost, fans, ignition, run a MAP sensor, data logger. Be prepared for a LOT of work and not a lot of support

Um, it's seems you are saying the exact opposite

Um, it's seems you are saying the exact opposite

This is what I am going by; he gear-tooth sensor is a variant of the hall sensor - the key difference is that it has a magnet built into it and switches when close to steel, no external magnets are required. This makes them very easy to use. These are almost exclusively a three wire sensor. In CAS (crank angle sensor) units a multiplug may be used to combine multiple sensors. The sensor itself acts like a switch to ground when close to steel. The gear-tooth sensor requires a supply voltage which is usually 12V from a fused 12V supply or 5V from the TPSREF output of the Megasquirt. The sensor is then grounded at the Megasquirt and the third wire connects to the tach input. Typical use of geartooth sensor with steel trigger wheel. When a steel tooth passes the sensor it grounds the output. (0V) At other times, the output is inactive. (The pullup in the ECU will make this 5V.) A commonly used sensor is the 1GT101DC from Honeywell. This is rated from -40C to +150C. The Megasquirt board needs to be set for VR input. V3.0 VR+pullup setting - V3.57 VR+pullup setting (Note, that previous Megasquirt versions may have used the optoisolator input, but for better high frequency response with toothed wheels and to match the input on the MS3X card, it is advised to use the VR circuit.) The Megasquirt main board has provision to adjust the trigger threshold on the input signal - these is by two small potentiometers inside the case. These are labelled R52 and R56. Using a small screw driver, carefully turn both about 12 turns anti-clockwise. (There is no dead-stop, but you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.)) Then rotate R56 a few turns clockwise.

Okay- did some studying on this no rpm signal. Apparently I have the wrong settings on tuner studio for my ignition trigger setting/ sensor. I am using this http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/sensors/Speed_Direction/gs1001_1004.htm Which I considered a Hall effect sensor, but I guess technically speaking its a VR sensor and that's what MS wants. Not sure how I was getting a rpm signal earlier. I am away from my car so I can't test this, but the megamanual seems to be clear that my sensor is a VR

I had my coil harness on backwards, so the rear coil was firing while testing the front coil--oops. So I get past test mode on the coils and I try and test timing during cranking--NO spark. Then I notice that I have lost my rpm reading--WTF 1 step forward-2 steps back.

Okay-during test mode, when I hit start -the coil buzzes, that was at a ONE coil test. During sequence it still just sounded like one coil buzzing but I had spark plugs attached to the coil wires and PUFF-it lit off fuel vapors in one of the cylinders. I want to check timing during cranking, but I'm afraid the engine will fire off with all the fuel thats in the carbs. So leave off all but number 1 coil wire?

I meant -200 rpm is what my rpms are showing during cranking-is that how fast the starter actually cranks the engine? Also trying to do the coil output test. Do you crank the engine during test mode and how do you know the test is successful? Can I use an advance timing light to verify timing?

I guess my cam input was set to MAP sensor, which is incorrect. Changed it to MS3x and all is right with the world!!!!!!!!!!! IS 200 rpm about right for cranking rpm?

I think I am attaching my tune here-test Well that didn't work

Shooting for complete stock replacement