madkaw

Not doing EDIS- MS3x allows to dial in on any trigger wheel. Going with a Cherry Hall sensor and going COP

Glad to hear you are still Zing!! We miss the Z expertise on the site, but glad has been good for you. I'm doing the same with my flywheel(though not professionally CNC'd) and my Megasquirt install. Glad to hear it works well. Not up and running, but it seemed like a great solution to the trigger wheel for me.

How are going to bolt that to the carbs? That base plate would have to be modified greatly or you will have to make something else. Even if you got the base to bolt to the webers, you might not have enough room for the plenum. The HKS type 2 plenum actually flowed well. The TMW box can't be pressurized - even at 400$$$$

"Cobbled together valve cover" OUCH!

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104821-nissan-cai-for-triple-mikunis/?hl=%2Bnissan+%2Bcai Try something like this

What year is your engine? An early e-88 or e-31 rebuilt would give you good power. Just bolting on the p90 would not be beneficial unless you shaved it down a lot and other work that will cost $$$

Well an outside temp of 5 degrees and snow on the ground should kep this project rolling-LOL I finished up my grounding busbar and hooked up all ground wires that MS said needed to go directly to the block. I basically removed any paint and sanded down the bosses on the block so the copper bar seats against the bare metal of the block. My thinking is this will provide a solid ground connection with lot's of area contact. My coil bracket basically mounts right on top of the grounding strap/bar and sandwiches it against the block firmly. The heater hose is attached to my coil bracket. It is tight, but everything fits and I can still get the oil dipstick out. The wiring should be mostly out of sight and out of the way. It seems everytime you get into one of these ventures you realize that every mm of room counts. Now to wire up them coils!!

Gotcha

The ones I have are for 70-73, you need 74?

I think I have one. When I get home I will check. You need a complete assembly- correct?

Excellent work!!

Probably won't chop anything off permantely. I will just keep them out of the way. I am just trying to make sure I pulled enough thru the firewall for now. I read where you can use the extra injector wires as drivers or for an extra set of injectors, but I thought pulling all of the medium current outputs from the 3X loom would cover any additional soleniods . As far as the 3x loom, it looks like I am going to run about everything except the Launch in,n2O,tablesw, PT4. I might not run all the 'analogue in' either. I might have one available for fuel pressure. I have also decided to try and come up with something using a hall sensor to make a cam sensor. Now that I have researched what it takes to have a signal for sequential, I might as well take a stab at it. Thinking of creating something using the dizzy drive. Maybe along the lines of the Jeep 4.0 cam sensor. appreciate the input

Questions regarding wire eliminations; I am probably going with PWM idle control and PWM control for additional devices(electric fan, etc..) It seems that the 3X plug should cover about anything i want to run. It doesn't seem like I am using the main plug for much more then powering the MS and sensors. At this rate I am eliminating 14 wires from the main plug-but don't want to short myself. What reason would I need any of the digital outputs or spare pins on the main plug?

Your question is kind of confusing. So you have a p90 head you want to put on a L24 block? I'm pretty sure the p90 is drilled for using the carb intakes, but someone else might chime in. Meanwhile-please clarify what you are doing

I don't believe that is the point being made here. Certain year DS have NON-replacable U joints. i know the T-5 combo from a ZXT had staked u-joints and they can't be replaced. The OP said they remachined the yokes and installed U-joints-not about shortening the shaft

Doing "deals " with friends is usually the best way to end a friendship . Rarely works out well unless both parties are responsible and give a shit. Bodywork is $$$ - so you might still be ahead money wise. Look him in the eye and say -"what's up dude ". Ranting here will just get you no where

Nice

Thanks for sharing

Doesn't the car need to be on the ground or at least the weight of the car on the tires??

I will get this professionally done in the end, but curious what ways you guys have measured and dialed in your alignment? I just changed out a tie rod end and I want the alignment to be close before driving. I have looked at some you tube videos that use everything from string-lines to tape measures. As you know measuring front inside front wheel to inside front wheel has some obstacles. One suggestion was a straight edge on the outside of the wheel and low enough to use a tape measure to measure front to back of the straight edge. I also tried running string line around all 4 corners . I notices that the drivers side front wheel seems to stick out more then passenger side- is the rack adjustable? Maybe some pictures of your measuring devices?

I also bolted in the trans mount to keep the tunnel dimension correct

Are your seat rail supports still there? They will keep things together . If your inner rockers are solid then you should have a lot of movement. I think I welded a support across the floor from trans tunnel to inner rocker because I was replacing seat supports too. My car was also on jack stands.

I went the Chevy route and bought the Turbo Sonic. Very happy with handling and brakes and would love to spend the 500$ on a ECU upgrade for more HP. My budget crashed at 20K and Ford is pretty proud of their cars. I like the looks of the Ford.

Not a lot of progress, but mother nature has grounded the Z so I have started routing the MS. I thought i would post of some pics showing how far the 8ft harness goes. Taking into consideration that my box is mounted on the trans tunnel and routes out the AC holes in the passenger footwell, the wires still reach all the way to the front of the engine. I'm cutting it kind of close, but I don't think the 12ft wires are needed. Mounting the MS box on the passenger side kick panel would have gained me another foot of wire if needed. I'm going to wrap the unused wire up as shown and just hand them out of the way behind the blower motor. I was able to route the sensor wires behind the heater box to the drivers side and they will go thru the firewall at the choke grommet. Next I need to make a grounding strap/bar that will be attached at the block where my coils attach. I am thinking of making a copper strap that fits inside my coil bracket that I will attach all my ground too. There isn't a whole lot of options when it comes to direct grounds to the block.

My bad- I ASSumed these were the same. You are correct the SS come from Vietnam. Sorry to put out misinformation . I guess these are a new item since they weren't around when I paid DOUBLE for the SS bumpers. I wish they had been but the SS were my only option at the time.