madkaw

I guess not too many to benefit from the info:) I guess my fix is the same as your suggestion of smaller boost venturi's?

The loctite seemed to be a good(maybe temporary) fix because it would be easy to drill out later. There is no room for anything as far as covering the holes. It has to be perfectly flush fill or the bleed pipe won't fit back in the E-tube. I need to check to see how it's holding up.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110671-newly-rebuilt-engine-with-loud-tapping-noise-even-at-idle/page-5 I put up pics of my wear in this thread

Suprised none of the "pundants" of the triple world haven't commented on this! It seemed like from responses to my thread that others have dealt with this too, but have never heard of anyone altering the bleed pipe. I need to identify the fuel level in relation to the bleed pipe. Keith Franck at sidedraft central wants to include this in his 3D model to help explain the dynamics. Essentially I have eliminated some of the 'bleeding' off of pressure by closing some of the holes. This in turn boosted the signal from my venturi and helped draw from the main jet in a more timely matter. I guess the E-tubes on Mikunis are significantly bigger(volume) then Webers?

So you haven't seen any visual wear marks on the lash pads that is unusual? I had more miles on my motor, but the uneven wear was easily visable on the lash pads. You could tell the rocker was weighted towards one side or the other on the lash pad. Even the bottom side of the lash pad wore uneven against the valve stem. Maybe you could clean things up and put some blue dykem on there and run it and check for wear? Have you tried a stethascope?

Can you not pinpoint the noise with a stethoscope or something. I took an old valve cover and cut a hole in the top so I can look and hear. Didn't wind up using it but you can borrow it if you want

Simple, but to the point advice- lol Keep your tire size to 225 max and you might get lucky

Not sure ANY aftermarket panels just plop in place without working them . To say that the Zedd panels don't work with stock rails is not really correct. With some caressing they would probably be undetectable after installed. I have installed the Zedd floors and rails- though not perfect, they worked well and looked stock. It's how much time you want to put into it. If anything , I noticed the outboard side of the floor panel was not formed quite right and it caused the floor to be too low with respect to the frame rail . This is fixable.

These would be difficult to paint since very little is paintable . You have a large rubber boot and a logo to contend with. Updated review: still very happy with these. Passenger side started to move around a little but it was just the Allen bolt loose on the stem assembly. Tightened up and no other issues.

Very good points. What I was trying to say was there too much emphasis on sequential for some. Someone posted on my thread that it was a waste of gas to not go sequential-really. MS3x is nice that it can be wired for sequential ---eventually---once i get my feet wet:) I already have ideas on how I am going to run a trigger wheel for the cam, but too many other things t o do first---like wire the damn thing-LOL

2.8 was all there and clean. Dumb ass took the cam bolt out for some reason so when I turned the motor over for a compression test - yep, the sprocket fell off . Cylinders looked great!! I'll have to come up an see the project when you start cracking at it again

If you are about driving a sports car, then you can be happy with the 240z with some work. Drive like a turd? if anything, the early Z(well set-up) brings back the driving experience of a sports car. Stay away from mods that induce harsh road noise, insulate the car, put triples on the L24 and keep up with your 300zx!

OMG-did I finally solve the transition issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So what the hell, why not try something completely different. I took out my bleed pipes and loctited the top row of holes-that's it, that's all I did and no more stumble. My AFR's don't peg lean during mild tip-in like before. I might see 16 just for a second and that it settles back to the 14-15's. It is a DEFINITE improvement. I will need to pull out the bleed pipes again to make sure the red Loctite held under the fuel exposure, but I'm stoked

Sequential is a nice option, but not really necessary unless you are looking for that last 2% of HP. Though DIY sells the sequential, Crammer's book HP FI down plays the necessity of it. The MS3X does give that option as well as many more-built in.

Thanks Jon, I sent my emulsion tube off to Franck and he made a 3D model of it I guess. He made a suggestion that I followed. The suggestion he offered, suggested to me, that he doesn't know Mikuni carbs or that the operating principles are different then the Webers(which he seems to know a lot about). There was no improvement and it actually ran worse. Not bashing the guy at all, but it sounds like he is going many different directions right now-especially with the Webers. He said he thought there was too much volume in the e-tubes and we attempted to reduce that volume. I'm not sure that I am going to persist to try and get that last percentage of a EFI drivability out of triples. The issue is not dangerous and will not cause any damage to the motor. With the right cam this might be a non-issue. The carbs idle perfect at 750 rpm every time and accelerate like triples should. AFR's are very good in almost all driving conditions. I plan on dynoing with the triples and then putting them on the market so I can pursue EFI. As far as the bleed pipe holes, I work with a guy that is a carb wizard and runs at 10 second Buick. I described my issue to him and he went straight for the bleed pipe holes. I thought about closing up a couple of the holes to see what happens, but I'm running out of good weather. Not sure if I want to do all the work to cater to my build when I am going to sell these off.

So wait - aren't you the guy that is still doing auto mechanics 101 and now you are giving advice. Not sure you want to do that -especially here. You need to learn your own car before trying to help others. I'm just saying that if you are paying outside help to do BASIC auto tech , then you SHOULDN'T be giving advice

I would check the new ones before installing also

Can't say where my rockers came from(MSA cam kit from Schneider), but my rockers wee as much as .014 difference in flatness between the two surfaces. It shows on the cam and the lash pads. I tightened up my tolerances a couple of thou and it eliminated almost all ticking. The engine didn't start out this way, it progressively got worse with break in. I guess that's why some vendors are putting out CNC rockers because of the inconsistency. I believe the ticking did get more audible when the engine warmed up.

Well I have pretty much decided on a 60mm TB off of a 5.0 mustang - mid nineties model I believe. Why- cheap and available that met my size requirements plus pwm idle control and TPS. Also hundreds of upgrade and aftermarket support is available. The TB is pretty simple with only one vacuum line coming off the actual TB itself which can be easily plugged. This should leave a fairly uncluttered looking set up. The idle control unit is long and kind of big, but I am hoping I will be able to mount the TB in such a way to put it down below - out of sight. I will need to make a mounting plate but have some 3/4" 6061 plate laying around from an aircraft bulkhead. Injectors from the same induction system work out well to- 19lb /14mm injectors . Also have decided to NOT use cable linkage and make rod linkage work using the Cannon mounting points. It should be easy to modify the Mustang TB linkage to attach rod ball.

Sorry pete, cleaned out my message box weeks ago

You might get lucky Pete. I had someone reply to my part wanted ad for that bracket, but decided to make my own since i didn't want to mess with the heater hose.

Not quite sure what you are referencing.

Might suggest ClassicZcar site also. This site is very technical compared to ClassicZ and dumb questions might get ignored. I think you will find a more patient crowd over there for basic questions.

Sounds like maybe the tensioner eased out a little. Try shoving your chain block further down or something

Maybe need to turn the cam to meet the sprocket hole?