madkaw

Yes, you CANNOT rebuild these DS's. Be prepared to spend about 300$ for a new DS!! The mount or something has to be moved slightly to accommodate the longer trans. Mine is hardly noticeable because I modified the mount and cross member. Your pics are too big.

I have been flogging the internet for hours trying to aquire info regarding this. Why, because i can grab my DS at the yoke closest to the tailshaft and get lot's of movement along with audible clunk(though not loud), that's with just my hands-eek! I've been chasing a high speed vibration forever and the DS has been checked and balanced twice. The problem is that the Nissan T5 is an oddity with a 1.3" tailshaft vs. the Ford 1.5". so parts don't interchange. I have found the seal which is SKF 13958 and that info was found on this site as well as others. The bushing/sleeve in the tail shaft keeps everything tight and square and I am trying to order now from Drivetrain.com-part# 301396 Another issue with this project is finding someone that can replace it. Most trans shops are set up for doing the Ford T5 and have the appropriate puller, but it won't work on the smaller tail shaft. For a Ford, this job can be done with the trans in the car and a couple of hours. The other option is pulling the trans and separating the case and pressing out the bushing-well we know how much work that is. So can anyone add to this or your experience? There's a Z guy on the CTZCC that started a really nice thread on this with pics and all, but never finished the thread;( I'm in the process of trying to contact him now, so I'll let you know how that goes.

You might want to read this: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=53371 This line also bother me: Ground wire is grounding all coils to the same place as the sensor ground for megasquirt (chassis)

Don't have enough experience to help much, but my set up has been rock steady. I will say that with my 3.57 board i had to install a pull up resistor and a jumpers + pot changes for my hall sensor to work properly. It was a bit confusing to understand what MS wanted as far as board requirements for what sensor. I run a 1K resisitor for pull up voltage, but I use the 3X harness which uses a 5v wire. Which sensor exactly are you using?

Most of those maps were for the boosted guys, not much for my ignition only NA. My question was more towards trying to figure out how to share files. Sounds like you need to be running the same firmware to just swap out maps. I was expecting in the software that you could build several maps and be able to swap them out, but not sure I see that ability. I also realize that there isn't an easy "fix' for this. I am using the 'generic" table 1 that MS supplies and the car runs pretty good, but I imagine that the curves are very reserved.

Okay- help me figure where to find info on map sharing. Like a how to section, I can't find it.

Any more info on this thread? I think this sleeve/bearing might be bad on my trans. I can get movement with the DS by grabbing it right at the tailshaft. I can move it slightly with a corresponding clunk. This has probably been my vibration issue at high speed.

Cleaned up the wiring and called it a wrap!! some pics

Well had to reprogram my Innovate wideband to put out a wideband signal to both outputs. Now everything works -except the tach at this point(car tach) All inputs from my MS are rock solid- car idles as perfect as it use to with my ZX dizzy. I have already removed the dizzy and coil and all wires. This has really cleaned up my engine bay. I still haven't driven the car yet- it's flooding around here

So I had 2 hours to play with too much I wanted to do. I decided to try and sync up my wideband reading. Well in 2 hours I managed to have no reading in my car and erratic reading in Tuner. The only good thing that happened was that I changed over my timing to the generic table 1 on Tuner, and the engine sounded fantastic!! I almost forgot that I switched over from the fixed timing so when it started it sound different right away. It's not until I looked at the timing gauge did I notice. So with a little apprehension I stabbed the throttle a couple of times - man did it sound good. What that tells me is that not much has changed as far as how the engine runs and that any crazy gauge reading should be scrutinized-like the AFRs. Can't wait to drive her again

Not enough time to play. I started it up again and this time(just danced around like a fool the first time) I decided to actually look at the laptop to see if my gauges looked like they are reading what they should. Temps looked good for coolant and air. But for some reason my car temp gauge stop working. I didn't mess with it because I am taking temp from a different location-weird. The MAP gauge seemed very responsive, which I believe is good- reading 60KPA during idle. Most importantly my rpms seem rock steady. My AFR's didn't match up though. In car gauge was reading piggy rich around 10.3 at idle. MS gauge was around 13-- which is where it was idling before I started this. Of course now I am running my wideband grounds thru the MS. I didn't get a chance to separate the heater and gauge grounds on the wideband, maybe that's the issue. I believe I have my timing synced. I had my timing locked in at 20 and my timing light concurred. I might be ready to put in some timing tables-scary.

Found this little obscure thread after much searching http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/36969-converting-four-wire-tacho-current-driven-electronic-tacho.html

Thanks Zed, that helps. I was reading that the early tachs operated differently and wondered if Sam was using a 280z tach with the tach adapter for that reason or just that he has that year car. I think using a COP system complicates this for me too. I know this isn't a big deal, but it did dampen my party of getting my engine running. Don't really want to drive the car without a tach to look at.

So a tach adapter will work on an early 71 tach? So what does the Tacho wire on the 3X board do? Not sure why I am having an issue finding info on this, but I am.

So there's no way to get the stock Tach to work? Didn't plan that very well

I did realize after getting the car started I had no Tach-on my car. Didn't even think about it until now. Looked briefly at the megamanual but didn't see much to address this. Back to the books.

Timing is in the ballpark, but I will get it. I am running carbs so no fuel settings to mess with. I was getting to wonder if my fuel pump was running during cranking(hard to hear), but guess it was.

IT RUNS So I started over again double checking everything. I went to test mode on ignition and fired off each coil to make sure they corresponded with my firing order-----oops. I had 3&4 coils mixed up. I must have got my wires crossed from the 3x board -easy fix! I tried starting it again with my #1 cylinder angle at 280, she wasn't getting it--but I didn't smell fuel. So I pumped the crap out of the pedal to make sure i had fuel and bang--she started. It idled pretty well, but I can tell my timing is not where I like it. One thing that had made getting my timing right is that I have an advance light- It just adds confusion when trying to making sense of your timing. I basically ran out of time to mess with my timing, but I know I can get it. I will tweak my angle degrees until things match up exact. It was assume to hear the engine run after all this work!

Thanks Matt-I will keep that in mind. Well had my box set up per megamanual installing the drop resisitor and install the jumpers. I also installed a drop resistor across the leads for the Hall sensor. RPM's are back and seem stable at cranking speed. So I moved on the check timing at crank speed. Well that didn't work as predicted. I set Tuner at 10 degrees for cranking and couldn't find the timing marks with my timing gun. At this point I am guessing I had the wrong angle for #1 , so I started throwing different angles in until I could see the marks with my timing light. I "thought" had my flywheel set-up for 50 degree angle, but by the time I messed around with the numbers in tuner studio I was at 275 degrees. Don't know what I did there, but I did finally get the timing light to show 10 degrees to match crank timing. I need to do so more studying, but I don't believe this is an issue. I felt brave enough to try and start the car with a fixed advance of 20 degrees, but she wouldn't go. My battery was starting to get fatigued too. I also noticed that the light in my wideband gauge was flickering or pulsing with the cranking of the engine. Not sure I like that because the wideband is fed power from my aux fuse block that also powers my MS. Never saw that before and not sure what gives there. I decided to put the battery on a charger and do some more reading. Any input would be appreciated.

I'm surprised this is the first you have dealt with this issue. Good luck , I haven't read many success stories of welding with this issue.

Well don't feel bad guys, it seems to be the major culprit in with ECU issues-OEM and aftermarket. I'd like to brag and say my set-up is working perfect, but if you have read my thread you would see I am still stuck at this point. The direction I went of drilling the flywheel was an attempt to avoid all issue like this, but..... I think once I get my MS wired correctly for my sensor I might be okay. Just got off the phone with a buddy who had all kinds of issues with his Jeep-CPS. It was replaced by the dealer but installed wrong by the technician, so thinking that was not the issue, he spent money trying to fix other things. Turned out that the EXACT procedure for install was not followed which varied the gap ever so slightly and caused miss-fire codes.

Well I went with this issue to the MS forums, but not getting much response. I'm not sure what to expect from the forums being a newbie. So do the DIY pundents or owners respond to issues on the forum, or are the responses by users only? I was hoping for more direct support, but maybe I am missing something. In the end I went with the megamanual instructions without a direct confirmation from anyone really. The issue I am refering to is using the Hall effect sensor and appropiate board changes. It only amounts to jumpering to points and adding a resistor, but I am having someone else do it. I was just hoping that someone on the forum would chime in and say YES, you are correct on your assumption. After looking inside the MS box(which I never wanted to do-ever), I saw items that were too small for me to be comfortable with altering. Big hands, weak eyes, no resistors dictated that I take it down the road. Now I have to wait for it to be done to move on.

From what I have researched you need a box for pressurizing. Not just a 2x4- something to disperse the air evenly thru all cylinders . Ignition control- spend the money on mega jolt or something to make effective ignition curves and save your engine. Better yet, get a MS 2 unit to control everything but fuel, boost, fans, ignition, run a MAP sensor, data logger. Be prepared for a LOT of work and not a lot of support

Um, it's seems you are saying the exact opposite

Um, it's seems you are saying the exact opposite