woldson

That is great for a reference points at certian mod levels! Thanks for sharing!

This can be tricky, but, "right" is relative. You find a r-200 with less then 100k on it you are more likely right in buying it and just cleaning it up. Reason? Incredibly well built! Now if you rebuild it, you may not get everything as well done as the factory did. You end up spending much more and may not have as much success. The r200 is a fantastic rear end, this is well known! If it were not, then rebuild, and your odds would be better for longevity. This could be considered "wisdom" witch trumps "right". This is not meant as a flame, rather a pause for consideration. Also getting a part from someone you trust, doing a light over view without much disruption to it, using it, then replacing the failed part (when and if) allows you to spend your money on what was necessary. While in the part, do research on what else is known to fail. You see, to be a really perfectionist, you understand about metal fatigue, so really you would have to build the car out of the finest materials known to man (every bolt and screw, everything, for it all has ware), have everything quadruple checked, including third party quality control, maybe NASA, to insure your car will be "perfect". Just remeber, it is up to you to decide to draw the line, since true perfection is inpossible for us to achive. Note: Ever wonder why their is no "best" allow at this site?

Just can't parrallel park it....................yet;)

Why are you shimming?

I don't know, about every tool has served double duty at one time or another. Mostly, the secondary purpose is a hammer;)

Thanks!

Well I dug into my archives and came up with this: The critical dimension for the throw out bearing sleeve is the distance between the surface that the fork contacts and the surface that the throw-out bearing seats on when pressed onto the sleeve. I can't guarrantee this information is 100% accurate, but it is consistant with my personal experience with Z car clutches. This list was compiled by Carl Beck of zhome.com. For the 225mm clutch disc (2 seat coupe) - up to 8-'71 240, 16mm, 30501-U0200 9-'71 to 11-'74 240 and 260, 18mm, 30501-S0200 from 12-'74 280 and 280ZX, 28mm, 30501-N1600 For the 240mm clutch disc (2+2) - all 240mm/2+2, 24mm, 30501-0H600 As I mentioned before, the distance that is changing on the pressure plate is the height from the flywheel up to the release fingers on the pressure plate that the throw-out bearing presses on. Because the pivot for the clutch fork is closer to the throw-out bearing, this difference is multiplied out at the slave cylinder. Another problem is that it seems to be common to recieve a 280Z clutch set when a 240/260Z clutch is ordered. I bought a Clutch Masters clutch for my 240Z that even had a different part number than the 280Z, yet I still needed the longer 280Z sleeve. This is the 3rd link, 8th post, found it very interesting. Flywheel thickness is the same if I remember correctly measuring the two I had, 225mm vs 240mm.

The parturitions below the bearing on the sleeve.

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Show a pic of the "ears"/"tab" height.

So if you put it in gear with the car off, push in the clutch pedal, and CAREFULLY bump the starter, what happens?

Texans love their state, I have no problem with this, others,,, sometimes don't. Personally I love the patriot mentality of Texans.

I was doing a loose reference to something that I had read that you posted some time back. I can not remember specific of what you had posted. I found your comments clear and concise on the matter. I had also read a long time ago about a fellow that was snaping cranks around the 8k mark, could never find that thread to reference it in the tread that had your comments in it. I do admit, I kinda take your word as gospel....

I've posted in the driveline section with links in order to find results for differences. There is a particular link that shows flywheel deck to pressure plate finger distances. For my self, putting the throw out bearing on the sleave that came with the transmission, using the fork that also came with transmission worked fine. You can always drill two holes, one for flashlight, one for eye in the bellhousing to take a look.

Will it go into all gears with the car off?

I'm looking for some clarity. Some may know the I was able to put a beck arnly 240mm/turbo/2+2 clutch assembly into may s130/83/280zx. I got a turbo/2+2 fly wheel from Zya and put that on my engine that came with said car. The bolts are from the na. Then I put the clutch assembly (disk and pressure plate) on that flywheel using the six bolts that came off the na fly wheel. The collar and fork that I used are the ones that came with my car. The throw out bearing came with that kit. The clutch assembly was bought at shucks, now shucks orlliy. I've not drilled holes in my bell housing to check for tolerances, however, their has not been a problem for 5-8000 miles. A lot of smokies as well. The installation went off without a hitch, no modding of the slave or fork. It worked the first time without pumping or bleeding the hydraulic system for the master or slave. There has been a recent post in the L6 sub forum and in the 280zx sub forum recently concerning na vs turbo/2+2, (240mm vs 225mm) clutch swaps. So I'm taking this to the drive-line topic to better, (clarify), related problem that others have had. Problems 1. collars 2. Transmission types 3. Clutch forks 4. Slaves (clutch slaves) Here are some interesting links while searching for some answers. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=151832&highlight=240mm+clutch http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132214&highlight=240mm+clutch http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=146546&highlight=240mm+clutch From reading, it seems there might be some definitive answers concerning this issue. I don't want to post my conclusions yet for future searching. Please help me and others with definitive conclusions and experience.

Was the engine at ambient temp? What head gasket? Where was the leak? Too opened ended.

This list could be a mile long, or, just a simple as, the stocker (fI na) runs out of air in 5500-5800 rpm range, and longevity. As far as how far you can go, some have reached 8000k. There is a harmonic problem in the higher areas, however it was suggested that if you break through and not dwell at that point you will may be OK for a while. Others say that when you get in the range the crank has a tendency to fail at the tail (If memory severs). Either way, you have a long way to go to have effective power up to those types of numbers.

1fastZ did some extensive research on cylinder wall thickness using a sonic tester. You might want to look that up. The f54 blocks have extra webbing cast into them for strength. Biggest problem right now is you have not specified what your goals are. You mention p90, what for? Why do you want a "stronger" block?

lol!

I've got to get you my vins as well! That is one cool data base you are building up at XenonZcar, congrats!

If the hood latch becomes a problem, just ditch it and use hood pins. Since I only have had s130, headers MAY be limited due to steering components. It will be nice to see a 2+2 s130 built up. You can always swap to another shell if you feel the need. Just shorten drive shaft if necessary.

You will have to search, however, I believe the LD bolts are rated stronger and fit.

That must be one fun ride! Not to rub you the wrong way, steves corbra (factory five) has been hitting almost 1mph a foot from a stop to 60ft. Can't wait for the day to have a ride that fast, yours, not his.

The springs in the rear were considerable soft. You may be fine in the front, but, handling of the rear MAY be compromised to where you hit bump stops when you don't want to.