Domzs

It's hard to believe that it won't expand after driving for awhile ( we're talking about heat and press from w/p ) . ATF has no water and it expands when hot . If it doesn't expand and build press , would they rec not to use press rad cap ? It'd be cool to fill it and completely seal it ( with none press cap ) and not have to check your coolant unless you have a leak . And no more coolant bottle needed .

I'm glad you are using 2010 Camaro driver side manifold . I've looked at them when they first came out and woundering if they will work , at least driver side . I know JTR headers will not work , on driver side . You don't have to do anything to trans tunnel to fit a T56 ( it's tight ) . LOL . With stock 5.3 , the 5-speed should be fine . The half shafts are your weak links ( ask Matt , he broke 3 u-joints ) . You might want to upgrade to turbo CV axles . It didn't take long for me to clunk my rear diff . I'm going to put a solid axle in my ZXT soon , 8.8 GT diff. and a 6.0 turbo is in the plan for it too . Already have the LQ4 block , LS3 heads and intake , 76mm turbo , 102mm TB . Will be sometime next year before I start on it . Too many projects and so little time . LOL

10 mpg ? Damn ! Are you running O2 sensor ?

It's still a liquid . When heated in a closed circuit cooling system it will expand . Expansion equals press .

Radiator cap has 2 functions . 1. Bleed off press as coolant expands when hot ( the press spring does this job ) , 2. Allows coolant to return to system when coolant contracts as it's cooling down , which creates vac./suction in the system ( the jiggle/check valve job , it will open to allow coolant to return ) . When mounting rad cap low , it might not work as designed . 15 yrs in auto business , I haven't seen one done on lower hose . IMO , don't think it will work .

Either you have restriction , bad pump , voltage problem to pump , bad fuel press regulator . Pinch the fuel return line to see if press goes up . If yes , poss bad regulator ( further diag required ) By-pass fuel pump control circuit with separate power and ground wires to pump ( good size wire ) to test voltage drop problem . If press. is ok , then you might have voltage drop problem .

Will this help ? http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/index.html

The first vdo shows low fuel press. and which side of the pump is the clear plastic fuel filter mounted ?

^^^ I agree . I like the stock gauges too . But I did replace speedo and tach with Speedhut .

Wow ! Kinda pricey .

I know LS conversion on S30 or S130 can get very pricey . Fortunately , both of mine got done very cheap , did all work the myself . I got lucky when bought LS1 w/ T56 ( got everything minus the shell ) to do my 83 ZXT conversion for $1200 . It was done 3 yrs ago . They are ways to keep the cost down , research goes a long way . I'm glad to see someone else doing the S130 , it's not as easy as the S30 . You might have to redo your mounts when you decide to go with T56 ( it's a bigger trans ) . What are you doing with exh. manifolds ? Is your ZX a turbo ? Good luck with the project . You'll love it once it's done .

If you can get it to run again , I would let it run for awhile before you shut it off . You said the car sat for 2 yrs , poss . that you still have bad fuel in it . Might want to put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank . Highly rec Chevron Techron .

I like . Looking good .

FL don't check parking brake for safety inspection ? It's a requirement here in Texas .

The sender ( S30 or S130 ) is for fact. gauge only , it's not to take place of LS CTS . With mod. , you don't need any adapter or fitting . It goes directly to the rear of right cylinder head .

Nice !

LOL . On the right side ( passenger ) head , there's a plug on the rear ( near the last exh. manifold bolt ) which is the same hole where you put the LS CTS if you were to swap the heads .

On pass. side head ( rear ) .

Donor car ( F body ) would have been the easiest way to go and much cheaper . I don't think truck FEAD will work , alternator sits too high . I wouldn't rec use a half breed driveshaft . JTR ( JCI ) sells an adapter which allows you to use full GM driveshaft , much stronger u-joints and replaceable to boot .

Good job .

Yes , it's for fact gauge . You must use LS CTS for the ECM which mounts on driver side head .

Good looking Z . .

Go to your local store and get one . It's only around $30 each . Why bother get a used one and pay shipping . IMO .

After hours of searching through catalogs to find a temp sender that has similar resistance reading to use on my LS conversions . Found some that has the resistance range but gauge reading is a little off , not bad . But I like the OE reading , so this is how I mod OE temp to work with LS . Put some threads on sensor end . 12mm x 1.5 Filed 2 flat surfaces for 12mm wrench . An O-ring and some liquid Teflon . Install and enjoy . Make sure to check continuity between sensor body and head . Too much Teflon will insulate the sensor .

Looking good . Great car for the price . Keep it up .