Domzs

Don't go cheap on it . Get high quality kit . Too much labor involve to go cheap and you don't want the chain or related parts to break ( could be the end of the motor ) .

I like your masking job . Don't play cards much , huh ?

No crank or no start ?

Jack , the car is freaking beautiful and it's begging for an LS motor .

Since you replaced MC and booster , might want to check the booster push rod to make sure it's adjusted correctly . I replaced mine recently and rod was too short ( converted 8" to 10" booster ) . It had low pedal ( late engagement ) .

LOL . Multipurpose Z .

Awesome job !

Hissing from booster ?

Check FSM . It has everything you need to know about your car and step by step insttructions and specs .

Nice ! Good job .

I'm not sure about GPS speedo wiring lay out but my reg. Speedhut speedo gets 12v. ( red wire ) with KEY ON POWER . Check your wiring diag. to see if says keyed ignition power . And my ground is to ground not ground of the rheostat . You can hook up the hi beam wire , the ind. does the opposite ( on w/ lo beam and off w/ hi beam ) . Good luck

Meaning the bleeders are on top ? On some vehicles , fluid will shoot out the res. while pumping the pedal .

Looking good , Mike . Dom

My 78 intake doesn't have a hole there . Does it go through the intake ?

You can , just don't pump your gas pedal . LOL .

Just looked at it . Thanks . Probably go with the professional package , would hurt to have a little extra for later . Prices have come down a little . Thanks again .

I have seen $699 at Summit Racing for the tuner package and the $499 is the basic package with no tuning capability , last time i checked .

HPTuners is great tool to have but it doesn't justify the cost , around $700 plus credits , if you are doing a stock swap . It's on my wish list since i'm going to do my 91 300ZX soon and building a 6.0 turbo for my 83 280ZXT . Does anyone here have any experience with HPTuners ? A little confused about the credit system .

Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere . What year is your car ? Assuming it's a ZX , digital or analog gauge ?

Adjust your door striker . Make sure the door hinges are ok .

You can check your area for tuners . I got my off Ebay for $125 shipped . That's a good used ECM with my choice of deletions , electric fan on/off temp. , recalibration on VSS ( i provided tire size and gear ratio ) . Think this the cheapest way to go and i still have a spare ECM from the donor .

Oil pressure ?

Depends on what year donor car you are getting . You don't need any emission systems ( check your local or state laws ) for your Z , it's too old . My state , TX , has emmision exempt on cars that are 25 yrs or older . Emission systems like EVAP , catalytic converters , EGR , and secondary air injection . You can get the tuner to delete those systems and codes related to them . And anti-theft system must be removed from the ECM so you can start your motor .

If your alternator is not charging then it could stop running at anytime . If dash lights are on and voltmeter shows 12v or less while engine is running then you need to check your charging system . Check with FSM for testing .

Would it be better to have actual air temp reading after intercooler then before , so ECM can calculate for actual temp before intering the throttle body ? I have read and seen setups where MAFs mount after intercooler , work better and fix idle problem . HKS sells a hardware that fixes ( helps ) idle problem with MAF that mounts too close to the intake side of the turbo . I agree that you need to keep MAF sensor away from turbulence air . If you get 200F + higher than intake side after the intercooler then you need a larger and more efficient intercooler . Blow htrough is just an alternative if you don't have space and try to fix idle problem .