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Domzs

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Everything posted by Domzs

  1. Great plan . LOL . Any more pic of the rear flare , at a diff. angle ?
  2. Use a noid light or low amp. test light to check for inj. pulse .
  3. Could be American Racing . I think Cragar had them too .
  4. I haven't seen one set DTC for noise . Have seen change in timing , especially Chevy Cavalier when timing chain is bad ( makes noise ) . If knock sensor is bad ( open or short ckt ) , it will set code for sensor . Some ECM will go into failsafe/conservative mode ( less timing ) .
  5. Mechanical noise that is close enough to it , will . Vac. leak will give it a high idle or surge . You adjusted the throttle stop , maybe you went too far . Check your TPS reading at idle to see if it's within spec.
  6. Check your knock sensor operation , only thing i can think of . ECM will retard timing if knock sensor detects detonation ( or loud engine noise ) .
  7. Need info on your car . How did you check for injector pulse ? Did you check to see if you have bat. voltage , key on and start pos. , at one of the two wires at injector connector ?
  8. That makes more sense . LOL . $2700 for Q45 diff swap ? Damn !
  9. I bet Q45 swap would cost a lot more . As far as performance upgrades , you will spend more money too . 4 cams vs. 1 . Probably heavier too .
  10. Check your White/Black wire ( power to ign. switch ) . If it has power then your ign. switch is bad ( electrical part ) . As CGSHEEN stated .
  11. It's going be hard to look at your engine compartment when you are done . LOL . Need to invest in high quality shades or welder helmet .
  12. They sell body and interior parts too ?
  13. I would love to have one . They're 3 of them for sale in the DFW area . Are parts hard to find for these cars ?
  14. Need to use a voltmeter to make sure they are good . What year car are you working on ?
  15. Look at EL-34 for spec. on turbo coil . Sec. should have very high reading ( in Kohm ) . To check primary : put your test leads on + and - posts . Test sec. : one test lead to + and other to coil wire output .
  16. It'd be nice to have auto range meter . Are you sure you're testing it right ? What are you testing , coil or transitor ? You need to be in ECCS section . You haven't mentioned any info on your car , what year are we working on ?
  17. Had similar problem with my 83 turbo awhile back , way before LS1 conversion . Had no fuel prime and spark . Was an intermitten problem . And it was hard to diag. due to lack of time between no start and start . I replaced the ECM , it was cheap ( free ) . ECM fixed my problem . Check with FSM for testing .
  18. Can you check to see if the flap moves during crank ? Or find a good used one and try .
  19. I meant , have someone spray carb cleaner at the TB while you crank it . You said that it has good fuel press. but does it hold press. after you turn the key off ?
  20. Did you use correct fluid in the diff ?
  21. Spray it at the TB ( throttle body ) . Trying to do some elimination . If it starts right away then you need to concentrate on fuel delivery system .
  22. Can't argue there . That's why i own four generations of Zs , not too crazy about Z31 .
  23. Air regulator is for cold start . It closes when engine is warmed .
  24. Without AAC valve to control the idle , you're going to have idle problem . Try carb spray during cold start to see if it's better . If so , i would check your fuel pressure . If fuel pump is weak ( not holding press. ) or leaky regulator , you might not have any fuel or press. on your next cold start .
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