deja

Nice project and it sounds like you're doing it right.

Cool! I saw that resistor in my manual (see my post #9). Glad you got it working. Of course now every time you start the car you'll worry, LOL.

Most of us use a rubber plug you can get in most parts store to plug the hole after getting the hose fitting out. You can also tap the hole and use a threaded plug. This is how I hooked mine up: I think it is used on the SS Camaro for the oil cooler. There is a fitting on the Camaro radiator.

You might try sending Bartman a PM. He has a '73 240Z with a LT1 and he is running Autometer gauges.

Well I guess that is sort of good news. All I have is a 280z manual and I doubt thta is the same as a 240Z. The tach wire on the 280Z had a ballest resitor in series and then went to the ignition moudle....I think.

I used a TransAm gauge cluster in my car so I was able to use the tach signal from the PCM. On the black (bottom) coil connector on the LT1 there is only one wire +12v (pink) On that EFIconnection pigtail I mentioned there is a secand white wire which might be the tach wire. The TPI engine uses the same coil as tha early LT1s. You might try finding a schematic for the TPI tach to see how that is hooked up. I don't see why the grounds would be a problem as long as they go to a good ground connection. But Datsuns are known for having grounding issues. You might want try taking all those tach grounds to a know good spot rather than going to the stock harness connector.

I found this on a pontiac website: Coolant temp sensor can cause a problem if its not telling the PCM the engine is cold. As indicated in the post above, the PCM richens the A/F mixture for cold starts, the same way a "choke" richens the mixture on a carbed setup. If it only starts hard in cold weather, check the coolant temp sensor. If it always starts hard - cold weather or hot - it might still be related to the coolant temp sensor, or it might be a problem that only shows up when the PCM is controlling the engine in "open loop". That's how the PCM controls the fuel when you first start the engine, not adjusting the pulse width based on the feedback from the O2 sensors. After 3 minutes or so, the PCM should go into "closed loop". In order for that to happen, the coolant needs to reach 120-140degF, the O2 sensors need to be hot enough to function, and a timer times out. Once its in closed loop, the short term fuel corrections are based on feedback from the O2 sensors, and the PCM has more flexibility in controlling the fuel correctly. If the problem is related to "open loop" vs. "closed loop" issues, there's a good chance something if mucking up the long term fuel corrections. To find out it this is the case, you need to put a scanner on it, and pull the long term corrections (aka "BLM"s) out for as many of the fuel control cells as possible. Might want to take a look at the air-fuel control section of my online scanner writeup to understand how all this works. http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm And this one on a Camaro board: Putting your foot on the floor while cranking puts the PCM in "clear flood" mode. The PCM significantly reduces the fuel flow. That would indicate its either flooded before you turn the key (leaking injectors), or the PCM is setting a too rich cold start A/F ratio. I've seen that caused by a faulty coolant temp sensor.

DOH! You are correct the PCM sensor is in the WP, no clue what I was thinking. Sounds like you need to rethink where you have the tach connected. Certainly sounds weird that that could affect cold starts but if its that last thing you need maybe disconnect it and see if the problem goes away. BTW http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/lt1_pigtails.aspx has a pigtail for the black coil connector with 2 wires instead of the 1 we have. I think the 2nd wire is for the tach on TPI cars but I could be wrong. But it might be worth investigating.

Take a look at the temp sensor, the one that screws into the driver side head right above the number 1 plug. That sends info to the PCM and allows the PCM to send info IAC to the like a choke. Make sure your throttle plates are not set too tight. You should never have to push on the gas pedal to start these engines.

On my old LT1 which was completely stock, 130K miles, no smog, headers and cold air intake I got 22 mpg on the highway. I am running a 4L60E auto so I don't have the double overdrive the T56 has. My rear gear was 354. My new engine with the LT4 hot cam and a 370 rear gear gets about 20 mpg. No low weight for my 280Z, 2905 with a full tank.

For me the doner car was the way to go. My plan was get it running and all the bugs worked out and then upgrade. I was able to get a driveable 94 Z28 LT1 for $1500. I pulled the engine, tranny, fuel tank (not really necassary), the complete chassis wiring harness (again not really necassary) the PCM and all the engine wiring. I sold off what I didn't use and actually made a few hundread bucks. Selling salvaged parts isn't the most fun or easy but if you're lucky like I was you get all the stuff you need for free. I ran that engine and tranny for 2 years. I have since built a new engine and aquired a new performance tranny.

Very nice Gabe. Looks like you captured the day. I just wish my car would have performed to its potential like yours and Warren's did.

I will add a favorable report on MM. I got my wheel adapters, companion flanges and some new rear brake hoses from Rose. Granted his communication can be slow and since he ships from Canada things take a bit longer. You will not be disappointed in his products.

Yep.

Mine had sat for a couple years. When I took the rail apart it was full of what looked like a fine balck powder. I assume that was what was left of the gas left in the rails. You can get injectors cleaned. There are several on-line places. One I have used is http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/

I bought my AC delete pulley off Ebay. It sits ion the front of the stock F-body accessory bracket no where near the frame.

Probably, Redline makes it. http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.aspx But its cheap at your local Chevy dealer too.

I had the same issue getting my new LT1 started, bad injectors. Give away for me was totally dry plugs after attempting to start it mamy times. The injectors were used and had been sitting for a couple years. Same as yours they wouldn't even click when +12v was applied.

Try some friction modifier. My R200 LSD did that too until I added the modifier, I got mine from a GM dealer but there are many options. Its a small bottle so there's no need to remove any diff fluid.

Oh, man. Sounds like you need a new NOS shop. Glad to hear you got it running. I paid to have a couple things done because I didn't know how and was to lazy to learn, big mistake. Not only did I pay a fortune but they really didn't do any of it right. My new policy..... "I don't have to pay someone to screw up my car, I am perfectly capable of doing that myself"

Grant Products part# 3592 will fit Datsun, I have one on my car. You should be able to adapt that wheel top the grant install kit if it won't fit exactly. Its $17 at Summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-3592

I used POR15 on my R200 LSD and its held up perfectly.

Yikes! That's a tough way to end the season. I guess even the "is it stong enough" R200 suffers every once in a while on a 4500 rpm hook.

Are you getting any error codes? Have you tested the dreaded opti yet? http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test Sounds like maybe you're geting no spark to the back cylinders. Might also be the ICM (ignition control module)

Actually JTR does make mounts for the 280ZX. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun-ZX_Order.html Instructions at http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZX_MountingInstructions.html I didn't see any blueprints but you might Email them to see if they will provide them. But at $259 its really a bargain price.