deja

I will be in Tucson AZ for a week starting this Wednesday. It would be cool to see some of the HybridZ cars for the area. Unfortunately I will not be driving because my new engine only has a couple hundred miles on it. I will be hanging out at the Home Plate Sports Bar 4880 E 22nd St most days drinking many Miller Lites with my brother. So if any locals want a free beer stop by, all you need is your car to collect a free beer, LOL. If you see a big ass blue Dodge Ram in the parking lot we're there. Dale

There is a rallye red code is 807.

I don't see why not. I happen to have one of the stock plastic tanks and fuel pump assemblies. I just tried putting the assembly into the tank. You have to compress the assembly about 1/2" to get it in the stock tank and there looks like there is about 4" it can be depressed. BTW if you have the stock tank ring and you're not going to use it I would be interested in buying it.

Seriously, go to the emergency room ASAP. Having been temporarily blind twice in my life it is not fun. And the prospects of living forever like that is worse.

Before I saw your name I thought I recognized that garage. Should be a fun car on the track, quite a step down from the Porsche though. There's a supercharged Ford powered Miata running around here that I wouldn't exactly call a girl's car!

Wow, that's gotta suck. Gook luck getting it cleaned up. I was thinking about getting some of that stuff for my Z.....maybe not!

LOL, thanks, like I already don't feel old!!!

OMG!!!You're from Zanesville, Ohio?? I lived in Cambridge for 16 years before moving to GA in 1989. Lots of good memories of that area. Good luck with the engine. Get it running, do the swap. You can always upgrade to a better engine later. SBC is SBC they will all bolt in to replace the 305. I just swapped out my old (130k miles) LT1 for a brand new one, still breaking it in.

You're asking the wrong guy. I am certainl;y no SCB expert. But from what I do know the 305 is NOT the prefeered engine chouce. Cheap HP, there is no such thing, . Do some reseach, anything can be made to go fast if you have enough time and money. http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/305.html

Mortec says 14101083...87-up...350..........Gen.I, also used on crate motors, 285 or 300 hp, 64cc chambers, 72' center manifold bolt angles. So Mortec says the block is a 305 but the heads were most likely from a 350. 14101081 heads were used on the 305, no spec difference as far as Mortec says.

Look at the engine number again. You sure its not 14088551? If so its a 305...86-87...2 bolt main...one-piece rear main seal. http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

It seems to be fine on the road other than having to push very hard to hold the car at a light. I just don't understand why its acting like it is when I pull into the garage. It never did that until I swapped LT1 engines. The only real difference in the engines is the LT4 cam kit an the RPM adjustment. I did just notice something I somehow missed however. It looks like this engine is sitting about 1/8' further forward that the old one causing the throttle cable not to allow the throttle plate to fully close. So maybe I am not sitting at 1000 rpm. I have adjusted that. But since I already wanted to swap the MS to the 15/16" I have taken it all out, the new MS will be at the parts store at 4:00. I did get the rod out and after a ton of penetrating oil got it loose. And the reaction disc was in place so that rules that out. Well it was in place until I dropped the rod and it fell off. I guess I'll epoxy it on before reassembly.

OH! So to remove the rod I need to pull the booster out of the car in order to get to that clip? I was trying to avoid that, LOL. I guess I will start by getting the 15/16 MS and proceed from there. Getting the MS out would have been a lot easier if I had done it before I put the new engine in. Thanks for your input.

I have MM rear discs and Silvermine front discs. I am still running the 7/8 MS, which I plan on replacing. After I did the LT1 swap for the second time I seem to have rear brake issues. When I pull into my garage which has a very smooth floor and apply the brakes the front wheels lock and the rears wheels are still turning. I have to really push on the brakes to get the rear wheels to stop. This could be somewhat related to the 1000 rpm idle I have the LT1 set for but I don't think I should have to push that hard to stop the wheels. The pedal seems firm so I don't think I have an air in the lines issue. I read a ton of stuff here about the reaction disc and pushrod adjustment. I decided to try the pushrod adjustment since what I read said there should be 3/8" - 1/2" upward movement of the fluid when I push the brake pedal and I get about 1/8". I took the MS off and found all sorts of crud, even some wetness but can't really say its fluid. The push rod has quit a bit of rust on it and the end part with the nut does not seem to turn, probably because of the rust. So I try to pull the rod out so I can clean it up. It gets pretty far out and then seems to get hung up on something. I thought the reaction disc was on the end of the rod and it would just pull out, am I wrong?

LOL, working on these engines can be a bitch. Seems like every time you want to get something off you have to take two other things off first. Even where they put the belt tensioner makes you wonder what the GM engineers were smoking when they planned this one!!! BTW I have 150 miles on my engine now and I just went back in to see if the header bolts needed retightening...NOPE they are still tight. Dale

You might want to cleanout the fuel rails too. When I tore apart the assembly that would not allow my LT1 to start I found 6 of the injectors did not work and there was so much crud in the rails I was shocked. This assembly had sat for at least 1 1/2 years. You can disassemble the rails pretty easily. Just DO NOT attempt to remove the return line (the one with the purge valve) from the passenger rail, it is glued in. The short one on the front will pull out of both rails and has o-rings you can get at the auto parts store. I also pulled the regulator and the screen had crude on it too. I am going to replace that too. I ended up getting 8 rebuilt Blue Demon injectors from http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=55. They are local to me and were recommended by some friends that have dealt with them. I got them in 2 days.

Most newer cars have something like a residual power pack. It basically holds enough voltage to release airbags in case an accident disabled the battery and you might still need the airbag to go off. I think it will also run the power windows, but not sure about that. But something like that could still power the solenoid in your doors.

Awesome. Do you have to pay them or will they actually pay you ?

Lokar make a flexible dipstick for the LS1.

Back to work, ya know I could use the rest. LOL. I got the last bug worked out. Seems like the ignition module I just bought was bad, throwing a code 42. I gotta quit buying stuff on-line!!! That was one of the things I swapped in when I was having the injector issue. So I went back to the one from the old engine. Went for the first drive, no hood so I had to stay off the maine streets. They have some stupid no-hood law in this county. I tell you it was hard not to put my foot in it!

Thanks Mike. Too bad I didn't have it done for the barb-bee-que.

LOL, that's going to have to wait a while until its broken in .

I will do that. As far as changing the engine that was the plan all along. I got the Z28 for $1500 and sold more than that in parts. So the engine and tranny were free. This engine certainly was not free, LOL. But a bit more power and the reliability of a new engine will be great.

After a year and a half I decided the oil burning 130K mile LT1 had to go. I picked up a GM LT1 4 bolt main crate engine and build a better beast. I added a LT4 hot cam kit with roller 1.6 rockers to give it a small HP boost. Other than the cam the engine is stock. I fired it up this morning for the first time, gotta love that first start. I will break it in, probably get a dyno tune done and be ready for DNI in November. Issues, of course I had issues. We installed the engine Friday night and I spent the last 3 days bolts stuff back on. I finished up late yesterday. So I go out this morning thinking it would fire right up. Well actually with my luck I thought it wouldn't fire. I was right. It didn't even try. I was thinking opt since that and the fuel injectors are really the only untested parts. I ran the opti test and it said all was good. Pulled a plug and it was dry as a bone. I sprayed a little starter fluid in the throttle body and it fire right up. OK its got to be the old injectors. I swapped out the complete fuel rail and injectors from the old engine and it fired right up. I ran it for 15 minutes, no leaks no horrible noises. I will let it cool down, change the oil and filter and see if it will move. Hopefully I can get a buddy over here to help me put the hood back on. Naturally its raining today!

I talked to several gearheads here and they all reccomended the Earls gaskets. You can buy just the gasket part that will snap into the aluminum frames if you ever need to pull the headers for some reason. Good luck on the 3-4 issue. I would try swaping some plug wires and/or the injectors like someone above said. Make sure the wires are really seated on the opti too, I know those can be a bitch to seat.