deja

Very nice Gabe. Having ridden in this car I can say it feels like 380 HP and 390 TQ too.

I agree with johnc. The front bumpers are attached to shocks which bolt to the frame. I would worrry about those shocks being able to hold up to the weight of the car being towed. Should be easy to fabricate a replacement bracket for the shocks. There are also tow hooks bolted to the frame. You might be able to use that area to mount a tow bar and leave the bumper on.

Good points. The thing that bothers me about his system is he says his engine is not drawing anything from where the breather hose would hook up on the throttle body.

You might be on to something. In an earlier post he said he was running a a fuel pump from a 81 280ZX turbo that produced 66 psi, way too high for the stock regulator. I don't know if he addressed that or not.

Bad? I don't know but I've always been told pulling fumes from the engine is a good thing and a breather doesn't do as good of job.

A couple years ago I paid $152 for the Z28 driveshaft I had shortened with a new yoke and the JTR flange and 3310 u-joint installed. That included balanceing too.

You can get the pimion adapter from JTR, it uses a very strong GM 3310 u-jount.

I for one drive my car everyday so mileage is a concern. Granted not the biggest concern but at $2.50 a gallon it matters. No point in throwing money away and his car should be getting a lot better mileage than it is for a stock LT1 in a very light car. To me that points to issues that could also be hurting performance. Of course if I was that worried I wouldn't have put that LT4 hot cam kit in it, LOL.

Yep I am running the PCV hose. I think I got it on EBAY. Can I assume you removed the EGR stuff too? Have you stuck a vacuum gauge on the engine yet? You live in California, how are you going to pass the smog laws with that open exhaust and no PCV? Nice thing about Georgia if the car is 25 YO, no smog requirements.

DOH, you have a 93 LT1 and I don't think that has a MAF!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CRC0/05110.oap?keyword=maf+cleaner

I would get some fuel injector cleaner and put it in the tank with your next fill up. Get some MAF cleaner and give it a good bath (take it off to do that). Make sure your air cleaner is clean and all the connection between it and the throttle body are tight. Take a look inside the throttle body to see how dirty it is. It might be worth pulling it and giving it a good cleaning.

I noticed that too. It would be nice if you could search by year and model but you have to know the actual part number. I called them when I bought my fuel pump. He was very helpful and friendly. 1-866-851-0549

Sounds like you did everything right. But off market oxygen sensors don't have a good reputation. Stick with GM parts, AC Delco or Delphi. I got my O2s from http://store.getgmparts.com/ AC Delco #: AFS75 GM #: 25312184. LT1 O2 oxygen sensor (93) (non-heated) (AC-Delco #AFS21) = 25166816 LT1 O2 oxygen sensor (94-95) (heated) = 25312184 LT1 O2 oxygen sensor (96-97) (rear heated) (AC-Delco #AFS97) = 25312196

Do you have a check engine light? Do you have the OBDI port hooked up? It might be a good idea to pull a scan to see where its sitting. The O2's are a good suggestion. What do you mean by loose exhaust system?

You can't really test mileage on one tank full. But it sounds like you may have some issues. Maybe your injectors need cleaned. Did you put in new plugs before the install? In the new engine even with the LT4 hot cam kit and a 3.70 rear gear I have averaged 18.5 in 2600 miles. That includes some really hard city driving and some highway cruising miles. In the old stock 130K engine I averaged 19.1 for 10,183 miles.

Check this site. http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/rt_specs.jsp It would take a 1.5" spacer. I am running 1.5" spacers with my 40 offsets.

I am using I am using Gates K06061513/16" x 62 1/8". Your's is 1/2" longer than the one I'm using. Maybe your tensioner isn't keeping enough tension causing it to flex too much and wear. Just a thought. BTW mine barely fits, it is tough to get installed but so far I have not lost one in over 10K miles.

I got mine from Oreillys about a year ago. Beck/Arney part number 052-1328 is listed on thier site. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Transaxle+Extension+Housing+Seal/03065/C0071.oap?keyword=seal&year=1977&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209248

You are correct. Most people upgrading these engines bypass the throtle body. Its really only a smog thing.

I think it was a 3/4" freeze plug. YOu can measure the hole once you get the fitting out.

If you slotted you Datsun motor stands like JTR suggested maybe you can move the engine forward a tiny bit.

I just went out to look at the clearance I have on the rack and its about the same. I have never had it hit the rack and I've had 2 different racks in the car. I also have a staock 7 1/2" pulley. No clue on what could be causing your belt problem. But I have problems when I have my AC belt on, I've torn up 2 of them. So far no problems with using just the alternator, AC delete, PS delete belt. Did you get a new water pump before you installed the engine? Tapping the fittings would fix it but that would be a bitch on the car. I doubt any sealer of JB weld would really work.