deja

DOH, totally misread my drawing. The colors I posted are the Camaro harness conversion colors. You are correct sir.

I believe the common for the blinker is the Green wire, Left is Wht/Blk and right is Wht/Red. I also believe the dimmer common is Blk, high is Wht/Red and low is Red/Blk.

I don't know what voltage level it is but it is a pulse, not a steady voltage. It is 4000 pulses per mile. But I don't know what t would look like sitting still. I'd go look but I'd have to dismantle too much stuff to get to the computer of my gauge cluster.

I agree with Mike, see what the repair shop says about yours. I had good success with a stock 280Z radiator on my old school SBC but went with JTR for my LT1 swap and have been very happy with it.

I have a 280Z, the whole rack is steel.

Thanks, and I saw the correction for the Z31 hubs.

Sorry this took so long to post my "fix" but I had other issues with this rack and had to get a replacement. Something went terribly wrong with the LH inner tie rod or the steering box. Suddenly the left wheel started violently vibrating. Fortunately this was in the neighborhood so no real damage to the car and I was able to get it home. The result is I got a replacement rack. To "fix" that rack movement problem I made some spacers from 20 gauge steel and welded the on each side of both bushing flanges on the rack. I only needed to add a spacer to one side of the bushing on the steering box side. The bushings fit very tightly now and the rack movement is gone. I really don't understand why Datsun made these fit so loosely. Anyway I'm back on the road, vibration free and the steering in tight and as true.

Have a great day Warren, and compared to me you're still a kid!

Great job on the whole car. What adapters/brakes did you use the allow you to use those wheels?

Been there done that too. The first time I drove my LT1 swap to work all went well on the way to work. But coming home after stopping at a lightI seem to loose power when I started out again. At the time I didn't associate it with braking. After starting out from the next light again I had no power and the tranny wouldn't shift out of 2nd gear. Then I smelled something hot, I was thinking tranny. I got out and saw the front brakes smoking. They freed up again after cooling for awhile and I was able to get home by only carefully applying the brakes. I adjusted the pedal and haven't had the problem again. I must have been luckier than you, it doesn't seem like I did and damage to the pads or rotors.

Glad to hear its all working. Electrics can be a nightmare when you start using stuff not designed to work together. For your high current try this one. Its fro the UK but he delivered quickly. http://cgi.ebay.com/CAR-BIKE-12V-70A-5PIN-CHANGEOVER-RELAY-SWITCH-waterproo_W0QQitemZ370082605529QQihZ024QQcategoryZ14932QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

You're not going to hurt the EMC. The EMC only activates the coils of the relays which draw minimal current and has nothing to do with the current that the fan draws. The fan current is switched through the contacts. I'm sticking to what I have, no issues at all. I am updating my relay to 70A ones I picked up on EBay but other than that I'm sticking with my original circuit.

Which relay is buzzing? Are you sure those on/off settings on you PCM are working? If your low speed fan relay is turning off when the high speed relay turns on you should be fine.

Thats awesome.

You have a HEI distriutor so follow JRT's instruction for that.

That might work. VSS is on B8 (thats the black connector) should be dark green/ white and there should be two of them.

I hope you soldered that wire that was spliced. I can't believe people trust crimp on connections in a car. As far as the speedometer I don't know if those scanners you can borrow from auto stores would be of any help. If you can get your hands on a LT1 scanmaster that will tell you if the PMC is outputting the right signal. It hooks up to you OBD1 port and will monitor a bunch of stuff. http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp?CartId={39E071EB-D845-EVEREST4159-9DBE-ED9497521159}&ic=050SCANLT1&eq=&Tp= Its expensive for a simple monitor unless you know someone local that has one. Too bad you don't live closer. I picked up one on Fbody.com at a good price. Recheck all your wiring and make sure the line running from the tranny isn't damaged. That cable can get pinched against a Camaro firewall very easily. The donor car I bought had the tranny replaced and that cable was smashed, no wire damaged but the sleeve was crushed pretty bad. BTW there are 2 green/black VSS wires coming from the same pin on the PCM. One goes to the speedometer and the other goes to the cruise control module under the hood. Make sure neither one is shorted to something. But again it possible you blew something up in the PCM when you had the signal hooked to the +12v input on the speedometer. I don't know what program modes you've made to your PCM but if you can borrow another PCM it might be worth a try. quote=Polarity;930349]Hey all, update time. Traced out the wire that went to the sig input on the tachometer, it comes out of the PCM (white wire just like you said) but has been spliced, looks like that came loose. I removed that piece of wire, put in a new one and ran it to the tach and presto the tachometer started working again. The speedometer on the other hand, still no luck. Ran a wire from VSS output to SIG on the speedometer. Hooked up 12v and ground, lights come on (nothing in the odometer box except the backlight is on) but needle doesnt seem to move any when I drive. Checked transmission to make sure that connector was there, everything looked fine. If I get a program like tunercat can that tell me that the PCM is sending the signal by recording speeds or? I've kind of run out of ideas here if anyone has one please let me know. -polarity

Sorry, I didn't use the Datsun ignition on my swap, went with push-button start. And the LT1 tach signal comes out of the PCM and since I'm using the Camaro wiring harness and TransAm gauges I didn't have to worry about that either. But I don't know of any modern ignition switch that switches ground. Your battery negative is hooked straight to ground, the ignition switch switches +12v to run the car and too provide +12v to the starter. The ignition switch does NOT complete the circuit to ground, it merely interrupts +12v going to different circuits, like the starter and everything that is only powered when the ignition switch is on like the distributor. I looked at the JTR manual and it refers to 2 different black/white wires, 1 sleeved and 1 not sleeved (leave it to Datsun to make it confusing). The sleeved wire goes to the Bat side of the distributor (positive side) which should somehow go the the ignition switch. The unsleeved 1 goes to the tach side of the distributor (negative side) and your tach.

Is that the Canadian version on the US Chevette or as we called is Shovette? The 140 speedometer through me for a second until I noticed that was KPH.

YIKES!! At least you saved the car, LOL. I usually start with "Stupid, stupid, stupid" when I do something like that. Fortunately so far I've had no major injuries, just a few smashed fingernails and minor wounds. My buddy thinks I'm insane for working on my car without wearing gloves. I just find them too cumbersome.

I ran my 280Z with a stock LT1/4L60E at DNI and turned a best 12.91. I did a dyno run right after that and it came out at 266 RWHP. The car weighed 3060 with me in it at DNI. Only add-ons to the engine are Sanderson huggers, a throttle body air foil and a cold air package.

That is a work of art for sure. Your start up video was awesome, can't wait to see some track footage.