MONGO510

Anyone?

I have a HD clutch from a 2001 Camaro that i will let go for a good price. PM if interested.

Does a Solid Roller lifter have a shorter life span than a solid flat tappet in a street use situation?

They arrived today!! Thanks Dale! John

wow, Is that a "50"?

$2500 sounds a little high to me.

Almost sounds like your front calipers are frozen or completely inoperative. Have you checked them?

I think bondo must go on bare metal for good adhesion. And not to smooth at that.

"Thanks for the advice on beer. I like beer. I also have read the jtr manual like five times. Anbody have any real experience on a cheap budget build?" Buy domestic beer, you will save a bundle!! LOL

I quit using pickle fork 20 yrs ago. Use an air hammer! come in from the side and peen the steering arm, not the tie rod. The steering arm will swell and distort just enough for the rod end to come loose. It will literally fall off. No more torn rubber boots. FWIW John

do not rivet directly on the Lexan. It will get stress cracks. Place a strip of metal or plastic on top and rivet thru both. some kind of flexible gasket is also advised.

Thanks for heads up fella's

Do any of you fella's know of a tool vendor where I can get inexpensive lathe bits? I do not do enough machining to justify buying the really good stuff. Thanks, John

Did the writing come off? If not I have a pistol you can borrow! lol

Personally, I think the Arizona Z-car A-arms look flimsy as hell for use on the street. They may be great parts, but intuition tells me they will be trouble. My intuition is seldom very far off. My $.02 John

Very nice!!

sweeeeeeet!!!

Input shaft looks to be about 1/2" longer. A spacer that size will place the pilot and spline in good position. Then measure the height of the clutch and build the correct T.O. spacer for proper fit.

I got a pretty good deal on this trany. Super low miles on it,under 10k, Good gear ratios, came with a ls7 clutch that's in great shape. $900. couldn't pass it up. After looking at it I will build a spacer(very simple on this). Iwill take photos and do a write up on this as there seems to be much confusion.

Yes, it is a trany from an LS1 Camaro.

Spacer under HTO was what I had in mind, if I found it necessary. Fortunately I am able to fabricate any needed spacers.

The bell bolts up just fine although the top right bolt hole is missing. There is an extra hole at the very top which can be used if the block is drilled and tapped. There is no provision for external slave cyl. or linkage. Must use a hydraulic T.O. brg. The T.O. they sent is self adjusting The trans is a "98" T56. The only issue I see at the moment is the input length, which might be remedied with a block plate /spacer and pilot brg. Any other thoughts or ideas

After doing much searching, I came to the conclusion that to put a T-56 behind a Gen 1 small block I had to buy a Weir conversion, a Mcleod conversion, or use a special adapter plate to mate the T-56 to a standard 4spd bellhousing. It appeared that I would be spending a minimum of 3-400 for the necessary parts. While following various links I came across a company called Standard Transmission & Gear. I talked to a fellow named Mike who set me up with these parts. 1. a used LS1 bellhousing 2. a new Hydraulic T.O. Brg. The price delivered to my door was $207 !! Sweet! After measuring everything looks like it will fit just fine, but possibly require drilling the end of the crank with a 5/8 drill, 1/4in deep, for input shaft clearance. The stock clutch assembly will fit, 153 or 168 flywheel will fit, starter will fit. Am I missing something or is it going to be this easy. I saw no reference to this setup while doing search. Obviously it will not be legal for drag racing, but should work fine for street use. I do intend to put a steel shield in the tunnel for my own protection. To contact Standard Transmission go to http://www.standardtransmission.com/ Input?

what is the size of the debrix?

I may be dating myself but I am going to fab up a couple of stainless nerf bars, maybe 6" high for the rear and possibly the front as well. They will be a simple verticle nerf, about 1" in diameter, solid polished barstock, reinforced behind the sheetmetal.