MONGO510

That guy has a funny accent! LOL

(.460/1.5)x1.6=

I use Sylglide silicone lubricant. Safe on rubber, Great brake assembly lube.

Welcome aboard Rockr!

Out Of Sight!!

Wilsonville, Oregon

I like it!

That kid will become a statistic!

Sweeet!

Then again, if I had done it, I would say the same thing! You gonna come clean Grumpy? LOL

You can't just flip the rack over! If you do, the car will steer left when turning right! The rack would have to be moved to the rear of the crossmember for it to work.

Looks like it is in the right place to me. Maybe try some cobra forums for prices.

Phil, I'm gonna have to make a citizens arrest! You broke the law, now you gotta pay! If you wish you can send the fine to me and save the time spent in court! LOL

Grumpy, Here is a link to a program that you can use to blow up any picture. Works great for those hard to read wiring diagrams. It prints out on standard paper which you then tape together. Works good. You want a 36" degree wheel, this program will print you one. Its great for making wall size posters of your favorite pictures. http://arje.net/rasterbator

Is the manifold some sort of thermo-plastic? Special powder?

Will someone please show Texis300 to the gallows!

spun brg. in the diff?

Hey fella's, I am going to be using an aluminum flywheel on my SBC and was wondering what I should use for flywheel bolts and washers. The reason I ask is cause on a previous race motor,(in a formula car), the bolts would shear. I finally had pins added at the flywheel register and that cured the problem. Do I need to pin my SBC crank? Special washers? What do you think? Thanks, John

Well I'm a big guy, and I have a large cone shaped felt hat. Ever seen Blazing Saddles? My buddy started calling me "Mongo" and it stuck. The "510" is from the other car I'm building which is a SR20DET powered Dime.

Savage, Grumpy is correct. I wrenched for 30 years in all kinds of shops. I was never really happy unless I was working for myself. Get some experiance, do good work for a fair price, and you will have more work than you ever want to do. My biggest beef with some of the other mechanics I have known, is that they would not own up to there screw ups. They would make up an excuse and charge you again. I for one, on many occasion would go tell the foreman that I just F'ED something up and then I would fix it on my dime. They may not like it, but they, and the customer will respect you. You will have made a customer for life and he will send all his friends. Be fair and honest and you can do very well. Don't fall into the trap of buying everything off the tool trucks. Sears is ok and has the same warranty. I have 40-50k of tools in my garage that are now worth pennys on the dollar. After 30 years I would be lucky to get 5K for them. Buy someones used tools. You will save a ton of money. Since I retired a few years ago, it has again become fun to work on my toys.

I like it!

If I recall correctly the 260Z 2+2 4spd used a R-200. The 2+2 auto used a R180. I do not remember the ratios. Sorry, It was 30 years ago.

Are the rear cylinders frozen? I have seen a lot of seized cylinders on the early Z's.

You want to see aluminum rust? Put some mercury on a freshly scrap area. You wont believe how bad it can get.

"dxpong: I talked it over with a professor at my uni dxpong: due to an increase in HP/Torque is what's allowing the car to run at a lower RPM to KEEP the car at speed" I can't believe he would ask a college professor a question about a real world problem and expect a knowledgable answer. This kid is hopeless!