2003z

I'll be there too. going on the 30th and leaving the evening of the 1st, so 2 days of show stuff.

yeah, I watched your video and cringed. I would have offered them to you had I realized you needed some at the time. Yasin responded first via email, so they are going to him.

just pay shipping. They are standard sized dished pistons that I just replaced with motorsports pistons. Appear to be in great shape.

I've had one welded before, I bought a car from some guy who's mother said it didn't run. towed it home and cranked it to see what was wrong and it did run, for 10 minutes. When the guy put the engine together he had one bearing in backwards so the rod got no oil and welded itself to the crank. How he knew, I don't know. Anyway, they welded, grinded and polished it to like new. Unfortunately, my local machine shop doesn't do that work and I really want to get the engine back together by the end of next week for a track event 11/4 and 5 at Rockingham. If it doesn't hold, the worse that can happen is underdriving my water pump and alternator and I start all over. The guy told me the stuff, once it sets doesn't come off except with a hammer and chisel, and even then its not easy.

thanks Gary, I'm going to go with his solution. Its Loctite 660 to repair and 'glue' the keyway in. Its an anaerobic sealer that was designed specifically for this problem. http://www.mx5.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html

depends what you are looking for. I've owned both, a track 350z and an auto G35c. The Z is definitely more of a sports car, but the G coupe is pretty close, and offers many more creature comforts.

its the keyway on the left, if anyone was wondering. (based on the looks but no replies)

Darn, just started initial reassembly and noticed this on my crank today. I'm thinking either having the machine shop fix it, or buying a used crank from the local z car wrecking yard, as I need to get everything in and running by next friday (9 days). I'm pretty sure I can't just ignore it.

So I am rebuilding the engine on my 240Z, and decided I would like the rusty header ceramic coated. I am an active member on a powdercoating forum, since that is one of my full time things, and decided to use a fellow forum member to coat my header, even though, with shipping, he was a little more than having it done locally. I don't know, but I believe in dealing with people you know (or think you know). Anyway, he gets my header today and tells me its much bigger than he imagined it would be and its going to be $175 instead of $100! I got him down to the local guys price of $150, but I still had to spend about $80 shipping it back and forth. As a business owner myself, if I mistakenly quote someone too low a price, I eat the difference, especially if its an acquaintance from a small community. I guess thats not the way its done in the real world.

wow, sorry to read that. Thank god for insurance!

so did I calculate the CR correctly?

Actually, if the notch is towards the front, the dome will be on the oil filter side of the engine. I wouldn't think you would have to relieve stock nissan pistons would you?

I guess the length might vary with any particular engine stand. I think I used 3 45mm and 1 40 mm bolts.

Also, is there a way the piston should be oriented in the engine relative to the valves?

Using the stock L-28 sizes in the engine calculator, (F54/P90/Flat tops) gives a 44.6cc combustion chamber and 9.82 CR. I will be using these domed pistons, but there is no volume info on them to be found anywhere. The dome is according to my feeler gauges and calipers, .686 mm tall and 58 mm across. I calculated the area of the dome 22/7*29*29 and come up with 2643 sq cm, then multiply that by the height .686 and get 1813 cubic mm. or 1.81 cc. Then I went into the engine calc and subtracted 1.81 from the combustion chamber size, as that seemed to be the easiest, which gives me a 42.8cc chamber and 10.14 CR. Does that sound like logical calculations?

Like said above, M10x1.5, I bought grade 8 bolts at home depot for mine

There is! Although, I am sending my NA manifold out to someone else to ceramic coat.

RIP Nazar, you will be missed.

Hope the time passes quickly!

I finally got off my lazy A$$ and donated. This site is both a great time-killer, and a lifesaver at times.

check this site out, http://ubuildit.com/ I know nothing about them, other than hearing their commercials, but they have a Virginia franchise.

and www.wheeltechnologies.com in dallas fixed an iforged rim for me. They charge 125 including return shipping and fix them in 24 hours.

Pretty cool! btw, its amazing what photoshop can do with just the brightness/contrast adjustment

the only thing zcar is good for is people with dial up only. it lends itself to easy page loading, but other than that, I don't really care for it.

yeah, I figured I would replace it anyway.