R3VO 3VOM

Every case I've seen of flares being installed, the car would be too low to run inner fenders anyway as any compression in the suspension would rub the tire against them. I installed lowering springs on a 240SX once with the clip inner fenders and any driveway or bump in the road would rub the tire on the inner fender. I eventually rubbed holes in them. If you're installing flares at stock ride height you wouldn't even need to cut them really, but I've never compressed the stock suspension of a Z with a wide wheel and tire combo to know if it would hit the fender or not.. But I suppose in this case you could just weld in little tabs and screw the inner fender to the tabs inside the cut fender lip. That being said, my car had the inner fenders you are talking about. I removed them and snagged the 3 piece inner-inner fenders(?) from a parts car as mine never came with them when I bought it. Not the best but better than no inner fender at all.

If all goes according to plan I will be selling my diamond racing steelies and picking up a set of these. Prime for rebarreling to a wider size.

I might be able to help you out with a few of those parts. Door handle, speedo cable, and maybe fenders (one is in Charlotte at a buddies house but I might be picking it up and bringing it back this weekend).

Running more than 12psi through those stock RB turbos is generally a no-no. I'd dial that boost down a bit until you upgrade it. Unless you want to blow it up. I know of a few people who have been "oh 15psi is fine. I dont know what these people are talking about" (not you, but people I know) and maybe a week to a month at the most they are in the market for a new turbo.

Nobody said you couldn't nor weren't capable of doing an RB swap. We don't doubt anyone's skill here. What we were saying is that an RB swap in an old car takes more than the engine and the mounts; it takes a lot of little stuff you could never calculate in a budget. Stuff you'd never think of needing. And with the pan, would the trouble be worth it to save the money? That would be your call. Me personally, it wouldn't be worth the headache. But that's just me. An RB swap in any Z (except maybe the Z32. Never heard of too many of those around so I couldnt say ever reading about the oil pan in particular) is going to require a rear sump pan. So as you said, that leaves you with front sump cars. And from the sounds of it you want to be on the cheaper side, so I'd say go S-chassis. RB20 into S13 bolts in with the stock R32 crossmember. But as this is mainly a Z forum that info will reside on forums like zilvia and the such. I daily an S13 and as a dirt cheap RWD you cant beat it. I can get a low mileage stock KA from SR fanboy swappers for $100. I have 2 sitting in my garage. lol.

Nevermind. My buddy sold his engine.

No offense, but if a $400 oil pan seems like a lot, then maybe you should rethink the swap. The saying goes “You got to pay to playâ€. You can always fab one yourself. But from having one of Pat1’s oil pans, flipping it and having it clear everything along with extending the pickup is going to take you a while to do yourself; a lot of trial and error. Not saying it can’t be done, as mtnickel has done it himself here, but just buying one done will make your life a lot easier; the swap alone is enough headache in my opinion. I know from experience it’s a snowball effect. I came in with the mentality of “spending x on this and y on this and total of z to have it runningâ€. I stopped counting all the little stuff I’ve needed to go and buy for the RB swap. Yeah, you may be able to afford the mounts and engine and such, but you will never be able to account for all the small numerous things that you will need along the way. A gasket kit should be on your list of items to buy with any engine swap as it’s out of the car and is the optimal time to do it as you can get to everything easily. But either way is it worth it in the end to be different or just enjoy the car as is? That is a call nobody can make but you. Me personally, I wish I would've just enjoyed it instead of having the car down forever to do the swap.

Not Zforce. I own a set of Z force flares and they are not that wide. I'd say Mizuno like raven12 or Arita speed. http://www.aritaspeed.com/catalogue/aero.html

My RB20 swapped Z with poorly fitting repro fender. On cheap rollers for now. 15x10 diamond racing steelies. Looking to eventually go 15x11 front 15x12 rear

Speedhunters did an article not too long ago on Mizuno Works. Has this pic and one more in it. I only saved this one though. Other one was of the rear.

Its been done very few times, but it has been done. Someone here on Hybridz did it. RHD makes it easier to clear if you want to build custom manifolds. Otherwise, you should run modified RB26 twin turbo manifolds. They will allow you to clear the S30 steering shaft. Or run some aftermarket top mount twin manifolds. Either way youll have to mod the flange by rotating the 1 runner flange 180 degrees on both manifolds. Theres a few pics out there of RB20DETT's. Any I've seen use modded RB26 manifolds and stock RB26 collector pipe.

I have one of Pats oil pans as well. Grade A++

I have to correct myself as I thought they were matched to one key. I dug them out and they are not; they are matched to 2 keys. sorry for the confusion here.

Finned like this? If so someone swapped it and you should crack that puppy open and see if you have a CLSD hiding in there or if someone just swapped the covers. Either way I should have the stuff you need off my 280Z parts car.

Only the CLSD R200's out of '87-'89 turbo 300ZX's have the finned rear covers as far as I know.

Did you ever get those things reproduced? I know you said you were thinking about it. I have a set of flat brackets that I'm going to make a replica of on my waterjet and open up the center hole to the right bore size. They would still need machining but its one less step to do.

I have the door locks and hatch lock off a 280Z. All matched to one key.

If you look at the cobbled Audi, he wasn't exactly running 145's. So a wider contact patch helps. But also, that thing doesn't look like it weighs 4000lbs either, so that also helps with acceleration as well. And since it looks to be a tube framed car, I'd imagine he isn't using a stock suspension either; I'd bet its some form of adjustable coilover shock . So as Everyone has said, handling comes down to more than just tires. It is tires yes, but good tires on a 4000lb car with mushy suspension still isn't going to handle all that much better than before. But tires, I feel the widest and stickiest you can run in your application will give you the best handling. Along with other mods of course; suspension etc.

Pm'ed you.

Nice project. Is this what the l30 you want is for? Lol. I want a hakosuka so bad.

I have a '75 parts car I'll be tearing into this weekend. Should still be there.

I've seen that car in person. I believe they are CCW classics but I could be wrong. Super clean car either way.

I can get you one off my parts car this weekend. But in all honesty I would just go buy a new one. I know for a fact the ebrake works. But beyond that you may want to put new seals in it.

Why not just buy a new one?

Ill have a set this weekend once I start tearing into my parts car. Its a '75 though.