Sumo

No i havent hung a bigger condenser and the swap i did was on a different car not a Z. But I can tell you that the coldest i got the car was from being parked in the sun during 98-99 heatwave 130 degrees in the car with the windows cracked open then made a run to the freeway for my next job and it got cold down to 44. During idling in stop and go traffic, however the temps would rise up to 52, a little warm but i had no choice because the R12 even back then would have cost me $900 to be done by a mechanic and i only spent $450 for everything including having a guy vacuum it for me and putting in the 134. I suggest an auxilliary fan in front of the condenser to cool it down more efficiently since 134 is warmer by about 5 degrees in my case. In comparison my 99 Lumina is usually right around 40-42 in 95 degree weather with the stock system built for a 134.

If you want to use 134-A replace all the O-ring seals with silicone seals. Basically black rubber O-rings dipped in Blue silicone is what they gave me. Then it would'nt hurt to get a new compressor since you opened the system or just flush out the old one if it still works. Flush out the whole system with an A/C flush solution to push out all the old oil and whatever contaminants are in it. Then replace with new drier, get a filter if you can, leave the old condenser. When filling up the system make sure you only fill it up 80% of the specification. If you over fill it 134 will actually make it warmer. Since 134 is warmer it would'nt hurt to put an auxilliary fan in front or you could get a bigger condenser, kinda like putting in a 4 row radiator to replace the 2 row.

Aarons got it, it's an Australian Holden Torana built during the 70's. Sold with a 4cyl that shook the hell out of the chasis and a performance version sold as the R-Pak Torana. Believe it or not i've seen these with converted with the nose of a 240-280Z because they kinda, sorta had the same profile of a Z.....when you're drunk.

When i had my 78 Trans Am inspected a few years ago on the old idle test and rev test, it was putting out so much smoke during the rev part for around a minute. Then it was counting down for another minute while filling up the whole bay with smoke and it viola!!! passed with flying colors. The emissions test here doesnt cover visible pollutants. And even now with the dyno test for vehicles 95 and below even for cars that dont pass i've seen places that tell you to leave your car and be back in an hour and when you come back after lunch, you have a brand spankin' new sticker.

Guy was lucky his head didn't get blown off. http://www.godmanhiperformance.com/videos/1975boweevil1blowup.mpg

Old people tend to dissapear while driving, you only see two hands on the steering wheel and a tuff of hair on top of the headrest. I thought Y'all was that orange truck you rented when you move.

Get those cheap Sunpro tri-gauges for volts, oil, temp from Pep boys if they still sell em'. They should have a cheap mini tach and vacuum gauge also by Sun but since they started selling the APC junk i dunno if they are still sold. 8)

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a defective ignition module sitting in the distributor. Although out of all the GM cars i had i only had this problem once. It is more prevalent on Ford ignition modules rather than GM. Hope it helps. 8)

nicely done

Check for rust under the battery tray, most Z's are victims to this. Next is check the floor boards for rust too and check the frame rails. Then check the area around the hatch on top of the taillight and the hatch itself. There's a couple of more things but im sure others will chime in.

Hey! I dont have a mind and how did you know i was single? I just meant that if the guy wanted a stock Z, the 260 is usually the one that you stay away from and that you find them mostly converted to L28 FI or carb'd. If he wanted to do a V8 swap then 260 Z's are cheap. Sorry that i did'nt elaborate more, i ran out of Hot Cheetos when i was replying. :flamedevil: There is nothing wrong with the 260 especially akeizms because his is an Australian version. The US gets a different version that other countries get. Usually because of emissions the cars here get a choked up version of the car. Another thing i noticed when i arrived in the US is that you have the same name of a car but the one that sells (for example) in Europe is totally different. Let's say the 70's Escort and Granada, the US versions are totally laughable compared to their European counterparts. At least now you get some of the European variances of the cars like the Ford Focus ZX3 and European version of the Accord is sold as the Acura TSX here.

If you are not doing a V-8 swap the 260 is the least desireable model. If you want the bumpers on the earlier 240 the swap can and has been done. There are actually two models of the 260Z the earlier ones had the thin bumpers and the later ones had the big crash bumpers. Go check out Modern Motorsports and see if they have what you want as far as brake and suspension upgrades. 8) http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php?PHPSESSID=90bb3762c581e2c70464e6a5079fa785

Yeah, i guess i have too jack up the left rear and try to see if i can get the shoes to back off a little bit so i can release the drum. I'm not in a hurry to buy the winch, i see it all the time for sale in Harbor Freight. 8)

Well if it can pull a Suburban i guess it will handle a Z with one wheel locked up.

Anyone try this winch yet? Think it'll pull a 280z on a trailer? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43331

Saw it at an old episode of My Classic Car.

Just an update Harbor Freight will open next week May 25. The store is at 1735 N. Story Road, it's actually South of 183, when you see the KFC just turn in and it's located way inside.

You been nippin' on the ol' antifreeze again? :flamedevil:

A clean lower mileage car would fetch him around maybe $4k to $5k. With the repairs you state and the mileage and previous accident, you're looking between 3-4k with the repairs. Dont shops usually guarantee their workmanship? maybe they'll do a compromise and fix it.

Congrats Ernie!

Without

I was just curious, we bought a new 2000 Intrepid ES with the 3.2 in and had no problems with the car except for nickel and dime problems like power windows and lock motors going out. The only big thing that ever happened was a sensor for the tranny went out and a hub bearing and a ball joint went out at 40k. Everything was covered by a warranty, factory and also extended. It was a good car, but due to all the fleet sales to rentals and cab companies of the base model, the car had no value, we could only sell the car for $6000 at March of this year compared to a same year Maxima which sold for $4k more. And yeah i heard a lot of horror stories about the base models 2.7.

Are you guys talking about the 2.7 V-6 most common in the base Intrepids?

Hahaha! It's just a stupid cat, it'll live!