jnjdragracing

Hey Braap, We really do not put power to the rear tires any gently than others do. We have tried leaving on a retard box to help with wheel stands. We do use a front motor plate and also a rear motor plate that keeps the torque from twisting the drive train to much and also use a 2 speed glide with a 1.82 1st no transbrake and a 4500 convertor. Also Jerry has done his home work on the rear suspension as far as making sure the half shafts are straight / level when under full power, and we are using Modern Motor Sports conversion to CV axels. PS: the photo and our old HP numbers were from my old setup. The new setup has alot more torque and HP. Just have not been able to get a full run because of the car trying to flip over. Just some more info, trying to be helpful..... John

I think we are hitting the tires pretty hard 1.32 60' times, no secret 698hp with the old setup ,4500 stall (only 2500 against the brakes),1.82 glide no transbrake, and 3.54 gear.The car weights 2925 with me in it.Jerry

Happy Birthday!!!! I hope you had a Great one. Jerry&John

I can not give you an exact amount. Mostly it depends on what you are going to do. If you run slicks on a prepped track with a tranny lock, not much. Use them till they break and post it;) We went a 9.21 @153 mph on stock stuff (haftshafts,and stock 4 lug stub axles)At that time we were at 698hp at the rear tires.Jerry

You need to call my brother or simply pm him. The cv joint half shafts we are running are remanned. He can get them from carquest I think. So far after we switched we have not broke them yet, need to knock on some wood....... PM him and I will also let him know you are looking for some. John

I have to agree with GrumpyVette all the way. We had a lot of fun with our car last year but the heat the blower was making runing race gas just slowed us down so much, on a hot day we would loose as much as 8 tenths and on a cold day we were awsome. So I decided to go blown Alky. Man let me tell you the Power is like night and day compared to race gas. Now we have to much power and can't even make a decent full pass. We went to the track Sunday to tune it down. 1st pass we left the bunout linkage limter on but it was spinning then hooked and had a run but only had 1/8 of throttle. 2nd pass we took the linkage limiter off since we tightned the front limiters up and again we were doing wheelies again even after retarding the timing another 8 degrees, which brought out total timing to 20 degrees. Now what do you do? I guess I will have to under drive the blower and see if that takes enough power away to run the car or Just pull the engine and build another car to put the engine in. We are only runing the blower 2% overdriven. So how fast do you want to go? We would be happy at consistent 8.50's 1/4 mile but can't even make a decent pass now. John

John, we are using the original springs ( 1976 280Z ) with stock replacement CARQUEST struts. The car weight is now 2925 lbs with driver, and 2700 lbs as a car. With the N/A engine the car weighed 2360 lbs,granted this was before the new rollcage and Baddog framrails. Jerry

We had to notch the fenders right behind the door and turn up the fender lips and clearencethe rear strut tower perches in order to run the 28x9x15. So if you plan on running 10 inch then be prepared to do some clearencing. John

Sweet!!!!!!

Jon, Loved the video, pictures the wheelie is now my screen saver,and talking with you on the phone. You and Gina will be in our Prayers. Love You Guys. Jerry & John

I forgot to list my rings, Rings are Total Seal rings, gappless 1st ring.

SWEET, is your tubo them same as a whe1? I am working on a tt setup also with the same headers. Would like to see more pictures. Thanks Jerry

micky thompson 28x9x15 ET slicks.

Grumpyvette,John left off that we are still using the stock stub axles that came in the car (1976 280Z)I know it is crazy but we have never had a failure yet.. A Big YET.We are using the 300ZXT CV converison from MM .Jerry

Now I never said DNI was pointless, if we can not get the Z to run down the track then there is no need in going. I will be hounding Jerry about it and at least we can attend to root everybody else on. Who knows I might be able to down size some power. I need to talk to enderle Monday and see how far I can retard the timing before it wants to sneeze, and also maybe under drive the pulleys. We will have to see...... John

Here you go GrumpyVette... 280Z chassis / suspension specs: Front motor mount plates (tied to frame) Rear motor mount plate (tied to frame) Bad Dog Frame rails Modern Motor Sports stub axel conversion companion flanges to accept CV axles. Enables a bolt on swap of *300ZXT CV (4 bolt model) Half shafts into 1970-1978 Z cars with R200 differentials Stock R200 rear end Welded posi with 3.55 gear ratio Turbo CV axels Drive shaft (custom built) using U-Joint to pinion flange part number ( naacco / car quest # 2-2-899-1) Drive shaft safety loop (NHRA specs) 10 point roll cage NHRA certified to 8.5 ET ¼ mile Transmission: 2 Speed Power Glide w/1.82 first Transmission shield (NHRA specs) Flex plate shield (NHRA specs) Engine specs: Stock production 4 bolt main 350 block (high nickel content) Bored 30 over Callies Stealth crank std /std (crank and rods / pistons balanced Iron eagle rods 5.7 length H-beam TRW forged blower pistons reversed dome Used Arp main stud kit with mildon windage tray Arp head stud kit Mellings high volume oil pump Block o-ringed Head cut with receiver grooves for block .30 thousands copper SCE head gaskets Dart 230 Iron heads cut 49cc 2.08 intake 1.60 exhaust valves Comp cams vasco jet springs pre-loaded for cam specs Cloyes true roller double cnc timing chain set Stock 5 qt. oil pan Crank hub BDS grind number 4500-r roller cam 114 center line / specs are: valve lift intake and exhaust 630 w/1.5 rockers (we use 1.6 rockers) duration intake 318 / exhaust 322, at .50 it is 282 / 290. Comp Cams severe duty roller lifters Comp Cams magnum 1.6 roller rockers Comp Cams 7/16 stud girdle Bds blower intake Bds 6-71 blower (reworked by little filed and clearenced / Teflon / nitril stripped for alky) Enderle bird catcher hat with Enderle injectors .45, alky barrel valve .80 main bypass pill Enderle 80-A1 cam driven fuel pump 7.1gpm Blower is set up for 2 % over driven MSD pro billet dist. MSD 6AL ignition w/ MSD boost controller (not using at the moment) MSD 8mm plug wires Headers are hooker headers competition for Datsun 240 -280Z Spark plugs are autolite AR133 Starter: using stock OEM mini starter for a corvette You can go to www.jnjdragracing.com and follow our progress with setup and testing to find more specs. PS: if more info is needed please let us know. John and Jerry

Well we went to the drag strip tonight and tried to make 4 passes. Did not tear up anything which is a good thing and nobody got hurt which means a good trip. We tried to make some complete passes but we had just too much power. I have posted the video footage of our passes at www.jnjdragracing.com please go to Zcar, then movies, then to the bottom ( Testing our new project ). You can read what we tried to do to cut back on the awsome power. but it did not help. Also here is a direct link. Please be sure to right click and save as, it is a 51meg video file. http://www.jnjdragracing.com/videos/New%20project%201-4%20test%20runs.mpg Until next time..... John and Jerry

Thanks for the links. Jerry

I am looking for a electric 12Volt vacuum pump to use on our brake booster,since we changed to alky. I know I should just install a wildwood master cly but a friend told me about using the electric pump. He told me to check a 93 Camaro or ford truck with a 7.3 diesel. But I have not had any luck finding one. Do you have any Ideas.Thanks for any help,Jerry

I'm not sure then. The fuel enters the needle seat and then into the bowl, as the fuel level rises it raises the float which will close the needleing seat which stops the flow of fuel. So if the fuel bowl is dry then no fuel is entering in. The power valve has a diaphram also. It could be torn allowing fuel to go from the bowl into the metering block into the venturies and flooding. You need to use a vacuum pump to check a power valve. They also have diffirent sizes so make sure you find the number on yours and get one with the same. Example if you have a 4.5 power valve then you need to be pulling at least 6 inches of vacuum from the engine. If you drop below 4.5 then it will open and will be to rich. I hope this helps, and I know what you are talking about concerning Barry Grant. They also told me my blower carbs would not work with the camshaft I was running and boy were they wrong..... I do not have that worry anymore. John

The needle seat probably has trash in it. Need to pull out and blow air in it and also use some carb cleaner on it. It it is blocked and can not seat then fuel will come out at the top of the carb. You can also check your power valve to make sure they are not busted, they are inexspensive to replace. Probably a good time to rebuild the carb. Holley parts will work in the barry grant. John

Yes it can, if the vacuum hose turned black which was clear before and it is hard then you are getting gasoline in the line which is probably causing your vacuum advance to go bad. I would pull both float bowls of and the needle seats out and clean good. Sounds like some trash in the carb getting caught in the needle seat keeping it open and flooding out your carb. John

Thanks, we hope to see you next Month at DNI Lite. Jerry & John

I would look for numbers on the block. Also lift a valve cover and see what casting number is stamped on the head. Once you have aquired the numbers then do a google search like SBC Casting numbers, etc. John

Hey guy's I just updated my website with the new pictures and write up for our new project. Also added the new roll bar pictures etc. go to www.jnjdragracing.com John