jnjdragracing

I agree excelent work, love the dash cover. Would be interested in a cover. John

I bought a set from BADDOG, installed them about a month ago and I was surprized with quality of them, They were a little thick but I consider that is where you needed some strength. Driver side went on with out a hitch, just when I miged them do more on the heavy stuff and it wil melt in with the light metal. Passenger side, well when I installed them it did not go all the way up to the floor pan like the driver side. Maybe the rails are slightly diffirent on the 280Z? One is taller then the other? John

Stony, I have a Friend (Chris Tuten)that uses the Cometic gaskets on his Mustang. He races the NMRA circuit in the Drag Radial class. This is a V-8 application,with High Boost. He has had Good sucess using them over the copper and o-ring method he used before. He told me he has reused the cometic HG several times, He sprays them with copper coat and installs them.Jerry

I don't know much about your dwell, but if you bring the Z to DNI we will have a spare MSD6AL you are welcome to use. John

It all depends on your application. Are you running a carb, or fuel injection. Then are you using it with a turbo where boost is a factor. The ones you were talking on ebay to me are not name brands so if you have issues / need to be rebuilt you might have a problem. On my supercharged / boost application I use the areomotive retirn style boost sensitive regualtor. It is expensive. I have a bunch of old holley regulators that I can give you one if you pay the shipping, but no fittings or fuel gage will come with them. They are great for carb applications. They accept 3/8 npt fittings. Hope this helps and let me know if you want one. John

More cubic inches. The more cubes you have the more you have to fill the cylinders. If you want the same boost then you will have to go with a larger bottom pulley or a smaller upper pulley. Hope this helps... We went from a 1-1 ratio to a 2% over then went to 8% over. This was in the last engine. With the new 355cu I went back to the 2% over. I tore up the other 355cu because of detination, cracked the deck and cracked both aluminium heads, but it still ran a 9.40 in the 1/4. John PS: you can go to the bds web site http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/techcharts.php and they have a graph of the pulley ratios / boost ratio for cubic inches as well.

Damnit man, Sorry to here about the bad news. Glad to see it is all worked out. I tell people / machine shops are getting bad now a days. Our machinist has a few lasp some times as well. You really have to check behind them. Good luck with your 383 and happy motoring. John

Here you go....

Wayne, John put the motor in yesterday,we met up today and talked about what needs to happen next. John hooked up the new FAST system and it looks really cool. We will be finishing up the loose ends this week and hope to smell smoke by the weekend. We can't wait!! The only bad thing is that our Dyno Guy Chris Tuten is leaving the speed shop. He is going to work with his Brother Brian and they are buying a Dyno but it will not be ready for several weeks. I feel quiet sure we(or mostly John) will get things worked out by March 16th. Jerry

Better late than never, 6.51 and with alittle spray 6.21

153.58 in the quarter, hoping for 160+ in March at DNI.( I can Dream can't I) Only 22 days to go, and yes we are counting down.Jerry:mrgreen:

Uncle Wayne, Looking Good!!! From what I have read and heard You,Zgad,Rip and Us all are racing against the clock to make it to DNI in March. We will be putting the motor back in the car in the next couple of days,are maybe tomorrow. John has been working on the new electronics,I have been working on some interior stuffand checking out the suspenion making sure all is well. John finished putting the motor together last weekend.We are looking forward to seeing you and your car in a few weeks.Jerry

Looking good Mike, Hope we get to see it at DNI, we are having to rush ourselfs to make it all happen as well. John and Jerry

You could do a compression check on all cyl. to see which one or all is the problem. If it has been sitting that long and if the rings are stock they might have lost the tension in the rings. Hey another thought is if it has lost tension, loose might not be bad. Less friction more HP. I agree with DOC, if the engine was not built properly with the correct ring gap it will have excessive blow back. If it is a street engine then you can try pvc valve or some type of evac system to help you. If it is for race, I would run the hell out of it. But yet agian it depends on what the compression test shows. If it is rust spots in the cyl. It will wear down in time. John

Sweet!!!!

Love the new car Stony, post more pictures please. Jerry

This is a GREAT car, I have seen it in person, everything is first class it belongs to Peter Val Preda. He is a member of HybridZ, and is going to have the car at DNI in March if He does not sell it before the event, it is listed in the exhibition class on the DNI site. Jerry

I would check the oil and smell it. If it seems okay leave it in. I would unhook the gas line, old gas probably has stopped up the fuel line. Spray some either / starting fluid in the holley carb. Try to turn it over and see if it fires up. It should one a few seconds. If all works, then remove carb and clean up. Drop fuel tank and clean out, also blow through the fuel lines to make sure old gas is out and not clogged up. Drain and change oil and filter. Replace carb and hook up fuel lines pour in fresh gas, use starting fluid to get it running and to prime fuel system. Good luck John

That was AWESOME!!!!Jerry

We used a sawsall and a vise to cut the angles approximate, then used grinder and cutoff wheel to cut the rest a little at a time, of course we used a sharpe marker as well. It takes alot of time but the end results is worth it. We had (2) Tubing notches with a drill press but ended up not using it. John

Congrats Dale, We are still working on our car. One thing leads to another then another. I am assembling the engine this week, I did find 2 bad pistons ( they were new ) but we had bought an extra set. Anyway not to hijack your thread. Glad to see you enjoying the car instead of it enjoying you. Hope to see the gang again in March.... John

If you go to the members photo gallery there is a picture of the rearend and fuel cell. A friend of mine has made loops for the rear cv/haftshaft containment I will check with him and see if I can post a picture of how he made them (Get his permission), His NHRA Tech said the loops would pass NHRA guide lines. Jerry

I don't have one right off. Our tank is in the spare tire hole. Right now it sits flush with the top of the spare tire hole, meaning the opening where you pour fuel is even / flush. We plan on raising it up some to help with the flow of fuel. No he did not say, we will probably use 22 gauge steel to make it. Jerry is suppose to do that and we have to relocate our 2 batteries due to the new rollbar. I will take photos as we progress on it. John

I agree it all depends on the track, We have been to bought NHRA and IHRA. To me NHRA tracks are more concerned with the car. The most vigorous tech we had to go through was at Bristol TN when we entered Pinks all Out. They are all concerned with Safety which is a must. We met with a NHRA tech guy yesterday Saturday to get our New 10 point cage certified to a 8.50 and it passed, what he was concerned with the most was the thickness of the tubing, he just glanced at the welding and the 6x6 plates. He did offer us some good info after looking at the hole car. 1) the seat belt harness, how to properly mount it especially the crouch belt ( needs to be anchored right under your butt, not in front). The rest need to be mounted with buckle facing the belt. If you drill and bolt thought the back tubing you need to insert and weld a tube through it. 2) he looked at our IRS suspension and said we needed to shield the plastic fuel cell, on the back side and sides in case we through a shaft no debrie would crack the plastic cell. 3) We have a flywheel shield, but he said we also need a trans housing shield. ( we have it just not on yet ). 4) long rear wheel studs. We had one that was short and it needed to be long. 5) Window net need to be secured inside the roll bar, not outside like most people do it. Need to have welded loop bar fasteners that the window net bar slides through. 6) Sealed battery boxes even if you are running optima batt. In case of explosion it will contain itself. 7) Fuel cell bulk head to cover the opening of the fuel cell, Needs to be separated from the inside of the car. If it was a trunk car then it was not needed. We already had that, and also the plastic fuel cell needs to be grounded with a ground strap. 8) and of course they do not like any rubber fuel line ( we have all braid and alum. fuel line ). You will need a fire jacket, an approved helmet is a must. We opted to get it all Jacket, pants, neck collar, gloves. Hope this info helps you out. If you have a roll bar I would not worry to much at most tracks, but the above in mind. John

We are running 28X9 MT Slicks, If you go to members gallery ther is a picture of the rearend,but you can not see the bump stops ( limiters). PM me and I will give you some more info. Jerry