BLOZ UP

Water-to-air units are great for dragstrips, but not so great for any race that lasts longer than a minute or so. I'd question the effeciency of a air-to-air intercooler being fill with water, but more than that I'd be concerned with the weight it would have with water in it.

So, has anyone passed an emissions test with Megasquirt? I moved to DFW, where they do an ASM test. I need to get my car inspected before I can get it registered. So, I tuned it to what I thought was stoich, and tried my luck. I passed the safety inspection, but failed the emissions: 15 MPH (1500 RPM) test: HC (ppm): Reading: 255 - Standard: 157 Fail CO (%): Reading: 4.37 - Standard: 0.88 Fail NOx: Reading: 182 - Standard: 1184 Pass 25 MPH (2500 RPM) test: HC (ppm): Reading: 247 - Standard: 152 Fail CO (%): Reading: 6.54 - Standard: 0.97 Fail NOx: Reading: 133 - Standard: 1082 Pass It read real rich. I datalogged the entire "dyno run", and ran the VE analyzer on it. It really was rich (11.5 - 12.5:1 for each part). So, in Texas you can retest your emissions for free within 15 days of your first test if you fail. The guys at the inspection place are helping me out by "aborting" the test if it looks like I'm about to fail. This way, it doesn't "use up" my free retest. The only way to tell if I'm about to fail (the guy tells me) is if the test "takes longer than about 30 seconds". There's no indication of emissions output until the entire thing is done. So, first, can anyone tell me if that's true? I datalogged the second try, and it was dead on stoich during it, so I'm tempted to just tell them to run the test all the way through, and see the results. But if it fails, I have to fork over another 40 bucks to retest. Second, is 14.7 the sweet spot for emissions? I thought so, but I'm tempted to lean it out to 15.5 or so, and see what happens. My NOx were really low, so I figure I have room to play with. The car: 1988 300ZX VG30ET, no EGR, air pump, or really any emissions stuff, except a new cat. Attached are my logs and msqs for each test. blozup-inspection-logs-msq.zip Test 1 is from about record 19360 to 22580 Test 2 is from about record 12520 to 13900 (aborted)

Ohhh, I see what he's asking now. Yes, MS calculates how long to hold the injectors open from the injector size (actually req_fuel, but it's calculated from injector size), engine size, number of injectors, number of cylinders. Then, It also factors in what RPM and load % you are at. As well as Warmup enrichment, etc., etc., etc.

It's based on the brand/model of injectors. High-impedance injectors are generally a little slower to open fully. You can guess (ie use the times mentioned in the megamanual), and if it's wrong you can just tune it out. However, the more accurate you are with the opening time, the easier it is to tune. Especially at idle with large injectors.

It starts fine in the cold (60 F), but anything after that requires some throttle. I have the throttle stop set right where I like it already. This doesn't have anything to do with ASE, though. I'm just talking about starting. Once started it runs fine.

If someone has their cranking down pretty well, can they post a screen shot of their cranking pulsewidths window. I'm using MS-II Extra, but I can figure it out for whatever version if you tell me your req_fuel. Preferably someone with an VG30ET, but any 6 cylinder should give me a good start. Mine's attached. The cold starts are great, but once it has warmed up even the slightest bit it has to have the gas pedal. I've tried all sorts of values. I just now moved the hot end waay down, and it started once, when fully warmed up, without needing any pedal. I was going to try and interpolate inbetween from there, but would like to see if 25% at 180 F is, uh, normal. I was thinking it should be higher...

Do the Z31s have the code on the hatch? I have an 88 if that makes a difference. I see some numbers here, but no dealership is open today to confirm.

Accel Enrichments? Timing?

I had the booster off a dedicated line from the manifold (the stock one). MS was off a vacuum port on the manifold, FPR had it's own thing, and then I had a 3/8" or so vacuum line to a vacuum block that sucked for the BOV, wastegate, and anything else turbo related.

Yup. Once you get your VE table in, mess with spark, then back to VE, then spark, then VE, .... Lots of fun. But It's line sin(1/x) or whatever. It doesn't take too long, iow.

I would say your mistaken and it's an injector (or 6), but it's hard to tell from the video. Unplug it, like Mike said above. See what happens. Or hear what happens, I guess. Turn up the boost, then it comes alive. They are "normal" on stock boost. Like Honda Civic normal.

The Diversion is just a stripped down dynasty 250 or whatever. It has a non-adjustable HF start and square wave. I use the pedal 99% of the time. However, I tried out the thumbwheel and button just the other day on some school project. I was in an akward position, and my usually method of pushing my knee on the pedal wasn't working well, the metals' thicknesses were too different. So, I tried out tacking what I needed using the button. It actually works well, once I could compensate for the torch moving when I pressed the button on it. But I don't intend on using it much, I'm way to comfortable with the pedal.

True, but I mainly posted it for comparison of the fuel graph. The stock ECU just bottoms out the sensor, and results in a choppy power graph. "Tuning" this out, albeit at higher boost and different timing, result in a much smoother graph. The smoothing factor is "only" at 3. That's an old car and old dyno. I do happen to have a different Z31 now, but it's still running the stock turbo and injectors with megasquirt, so whenever I get around to putting it on the dyno I can save all the runs. Assuming they have the ability to give me the runs on disk.

False. It's because the company is sticking to what works, rather than having to program for a whole new OS. The benefits of a GUI in a dyno situation are worth the investment, in my opinion. It has no effect on sampling rate.

Attached is the difference between my car tuned on Megasquirt, versus the stock ECU. All other items are the same, save for boost level and injector size.

I got a Diversion 165 recently. I was in the market for a used 200/250, but couldn't find any deals near me. So, I bought a new Diversion. Don't like not being able to unplug the torch line and ground wire from the machine, but other than that it is awesome.

Great to have some more pics of it. 9 years ago, huh? I wasn't able to drive back then, much less work on a car. I'm doing the same swap as well, only very slowly. I've planned on having the engine (and thus, the shifter) mounted further back. No exhaust crossover, and the coolant lines from the back are being "modified" as well to fit. Basically, the intake manifold is right next to the hood latch. Any further and I might have to reach in the boot to shift.

arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr I was just looking at prices for those things the other day....

I learned how to weld on a TIG. I also tried MIG'ing at about the same time. I couldn't stand the MIG welder, because I like to stop and think for a short moment every once in a while. This led to large blobs of metal. I'm not very good with TIG, but at least the controls I am used to. Just takes practice. I have learned that a lot of good prep. work goes a long way to help make your welds come out good.

I've seen 2 new ones, and a few old ones...

IMO, an ethrottle is comparable to an automatic transmission... It's a sports car; I'd rather make the decisions.

Another sign of flyback failure: Your MS catches on fire. Don't ask how I know.

I prefer to skip the relay board altogether...

I lived in Laramie. Really nice and friendly people. Wind never lets up.

Damn, duh I should have thought FPR, I don't think he has replaced it. I'm about ready to do all the tests listed there, since I can't seem to pinpoint anything else. Let me see if I can get a hold of a FPR for it.