BLOZ UP

Ha! I put Z31's and S30s in the same category of "easiness", relative to our Z32.

This car doesn't need parts. What's wrong with the one you have? I've sourced some louvers locally. I have an 88 that I'll sell you. Interior's decent, exterior looks crappy. Oh, but it won't have the drivetrain...

Besides wiring in a pull-up resistor for Nissan CAS, I would add that it's nice to have the output circuits built ahead of time for whatever you need (fans, idle-up, a/c, flux capacitor, whatever)

Did the last guy put the carpet in? Good god it's horrid. The black one is in Shreveport.

Well, I got a 280Z. Just a different one. Original paint. No real rust worries. Stored for 15 years and looks like it. Way better than the other one I originally posted about. This was also $2,300. Runs, drives, and the A/C works. Fender was replaced and repainted, "Guess which one". The only thing I don't like (besides the yellow color, which I can forgive since it's from the 70s), is the moon roof.

I'm going to do things a little differently.

Jesus. I'm not electrician, but I bought my 220v welder and got the 50A double pole breaker that I needed, 6ga wire, and made an outlet. It wasn't rocket science. First I read up on it and asked knowledgeable people, powered down the house, installed everything and then I just tripled check everything before I powered it up.

But yours doesn't have louvers...

Sounds like limp mode, but that backfire through the intake could be that your dizzy is off a tooth. Or it's just so rich. Or both.

I may be a 280z owner soon. I have my 88t which will become the parts car. I'm going to look to see how bad it would be to get the nicer 88t brakes on there.

Well, I've owned a few Z31s and modified and made my own parts and whatnot. I used to work for a speed shop for a few years, and I have a TIG, just to give you an idea of my background. I've also had a couple early S30 shells that I ended up selling since once I tore them down they were too much rust for me to deal with. Anyway, I've been lurking around waiting for a good shell to come around to put a VG30ET in, but then decided that I should just fork over the money and get a good solid S30 from the get-go and skip a lot of the restoring part. So, finally, I looked at a '78 last weekend: It's auto, decent interior, pristine seats. Battery tray is just surface rust, wheel wells are fine. Back of the hatch is fine, rear bumper has some rust on the little bumper lip thing, and the driver's side door has rust bubbling through paint. The worst is the driver's frame rail just behind the firewall. The bottom of it is gone, but the sides and the top are fine. I can weld that back up. It's been repainted and they didn't do a great job of prepping, so there are some rust bubbles here and there. But nothing a little sand and repaint couldn't fix. I checked out the car pretty thoroughly. Mechanically, everything works. A/C, whatnot. Bushings are worn, there's an oil leak from the pan. Nothing I really care about. I'm not a big fan of the L series; it won't be in there for long. So he wants $3000, I tried to get him down to $2600, but we stopped at $2800. So, is he asking too much? I've seen 4 other S30s recently, it seems he's a few hundred over. This one's the best I've seen. Now, I have a feeling if I showed up with 2700 he would probably let it go. I intend on doing exactly that, unless someone here thinks I can do better on the price, or that the frame rail damage should mark it down a bit more.

LC-1's require free air calibration every few months, or so the manual says. I've had mine forget it's calibration if the car/MS reset quickly in succession.

The oil pressure sending unit is near the oil filter location. I think above it a bit and to the left. The OEM sending unit is huge, you can't miss it. The threads are 1/8" BSPT. That's right BSPT. I know for a fact the Greddy pressure sending units are a direct fit (I have one). So, if you have a "JDM" one, it's possible it might fit as well. Otherwise, for Autometer gauges and whatnot, you have to get adapters.

Perhaps it was a tad too retarded. But I also had a pretty aggressive map. Here's more or less what I changed (not exactly what I was running but close): From: To:

I, for one, like the new layout and software. Great jobs guys!

That's what a power inverter is for. I want the Sequential injection and spark control, and the extra outputs. And the SD card datalogging so I don't have to haul my laptop around whenever I want to gather data. I have MSII-Extra on my VG30ET right now.

His gloves are on backwards.

Gego active at that rpm?

I thought all Nissan CAS were optical, but maybe this is what you are looking for: There's also another diagram for VR sensors in the same thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88246

What wideband do you have? I've had a MT bug where the O2 gauge gets "stuck", restarting MT usually fixed it. Also, I've had my LC-1 become un-calibrated and I'd have to do a free-air calibration on it, otherwise it pretty much read completely bonkers, sticking to either really rich or lean. Also had my MS box require a restart to get the O2 working again.

I passed. Yay. I did two tests, one was just a "voluntary test", that didn't count for anything. I passed that, so I tried my luck right afterwards. I added 1 gallon of denatured alcohol to my tank, which was at about 16 gallons (I thought it was at less than half, but I went to fill up right afterwards and it only took 2 more gallons. I retarded the timing 8 degrees across the board. I leaned out the test areas a few more clicks too, during the voluntary test, and it started missing during the low speed one. I richened it back up a couple clicks before the next one, and it cleared up. But I barely passed the second time. Round 2: Pass 15 MPH (1500 RPM) test: HC (ppm): Reading: 110 - Standard: 157 Pass CO (%): Reading: 0.01 - Standard: 0.88 Pass NOx: Reading: 363 - Standard: 1184 Pass 25 MPH (2500 RPM) test: HC (ppm): Reading: 123 - Standard: 152 Pass CO (%): Reading: 0.01 - Standard: 0.97 Pass NOx: Reading: 250 - Standard: 1082 Pass After that test I richened up the table at those points just a couple of clicks (two percent). That almost made it fail for the real test (it was bucking on the dyno): For some reason, the high speed test results all came back as zeros. Works for me. Look how close the HC was, just from getting it back down to stoich-ish (the alcohol leans it out a lot) Round 3: Pass 15 MPH (1500 RPM) test: HC (ppm): Reading: 155 - Standard: 157 Pass CO (%): Reading: 0.01 - Standard: 0.88 Pass NOx: Reading: 319 - Standard: 1184 Pass 25 MPH (2500 RPM) test: HC (ppm): Reading: 0 - Standard: 152 Pass CO (%): Reading: 0.00 - Standard: 0.97 Pass NOx: Reading: 0 - Standard: 1082 Pass Here's a log of the tests (he had to restart each test a few times because the tach signal for the dyno kept going out): http://krovisser.com/stuff/blozup-emissions-pass.zip Now I have a full tank of fuel that I have to burn off... without flooring it.

You think that's burned out? I should show you my old MS v2.2 board...

It limits current by applying PWM, so I think what you are talking about: Current limiting and PWM, are the same thing.

That's what I would do (I used to live in San Antonio--no emissions testing), except the law now states that the car has to be inspected in the same county it's registered in. Although, it isn't registered yet so I'm tempted to trailer it out to a no emissions county and get it inspected. But I have a feeling they won't like that at the tax office.

Hm, no one's done emissions with megasquirt?