S30TRBO

try to resave it as .xls (2003 format) and try to open it?

Yeah they are sexy, I need to get some others made up since my coil packs are mounted different from where you had them. The spacers are working, I just didn't want to bundle them together.

Well after much deliberation and humming and hawing I have decided to go a different route. With the help of Kevin Thornton from Extrudabody I am mailing him off the ITB’s for the cable conversion. Kevin and Extrudabody have stepped up to the plate yet again for me. I think I was one of the first, if not a close second of purchasing the Extrudabody ITB’s for the L6 back in 2007. Two years later I am at the point of installation uggh better late than never. Kevin has offered to convert my throttle actuated mechanical linkage on my short runner Mikuni to cable actuated throttle. My current setup is that the Mikuni rod which is 12 or 14mm ID and it will need to be converted to accept the Extrudabody Throttle Cam that uses an 8mm rod with all the appropriate linkage. It will also include the cable and firewall mount, this would all normally cost $150. The best part is all I have to pay is the shipping costs for both ways. When my ITB’s return they will be set up and ready to rock and roll!! This is a true testament ladies and gentlemen of great customer service delivered from Kevin and Extrudabody. If anyone has had doubts of dealing with Extrudabody, I would think again. Extrudabody demonstrates the old philosophy in taking care of its customers until the end state. This philosophy has slipped to the waist side by most in the industry today. I am sure Kevin could have sold me the linkage and provided some guidance with the install and modifications. Instead with a few quick email exchanges Kevin asked me to send my setup to him and he would take care of setting it up and providing me with all that I need to finish the job. That right there is top notch!!!!! :2thumbs: I’ll report back once they have returned…

Thanks guys I have what I need.

thats what I figured... Thanks

I am looking for all the pieces I can get: bell cranks, J-hooks, rods, pull linkage, ball sockets, throttle levers, cross shaft levers, shaft collars anything involved in the stock Datsun S30 -S130 Z car intake manifolds or old triple carb manifold linkage from firewall until the end of the linkage rod and or throttle body. I am trying to fab a workable linkage solution for my ITB's using the stock 240Z linkage as a base and have most of it together. If you have junk intakes laying around either turbo non turbo let me take the hardware if it's not warn out. Taken apart linkage is a plus too! I am not looking to spend a whole lot because most of these parts I may or may not need. I can cover shipping and the time it took you to take it apart if need be. For example: Thanks,

Looking good Dave did you install a new rack or just cleaned up the old one?

"my problems" not really a "problem" more of an annoyance although I can start sending you “my problems†since I have family that lives close to you only because you insisted..... oh yeah why did you even post?

My friend Erik came over he is a ME and we did a lot of head scratching. We ended up taking apart the only Z car intake manifold I had laying around (N42 non-EGR) and robbed the linkage assembly off of that and starting placing parts here and there. Here is what we came up with so far: We used some of these parts: The stock bell crank fit perfect without forcing it on the end of the Mikuni linkage rod. Off of that came the short "rod piece" going to the stock 240Z J-rod. In order to make this work I need more bell cranks and other pieces scavenged from other intake manifolds. I need more length because of interference issues with the TPS. So the Mikuni rod near the thermostat housing needs to be lathed to put two circular grooves to replicate what is on either side of the tower that has a C-clip on either side. On the other side of the Mikuni linkage I need to drill through the bell crank for the set screw and drill 2 more holes every 3/4 on center for additional adjustment. Having said all that, I have 3 options: 1. Continue with the modifications to keep the stock mechanical linkage as mentioned above. 2$20-$50 for machine work, plus parts from or purchasing a few Z/ZX intake manifolds. Total: $60-$100 plus welding costs 2. Get a long runner carb intake manifold so I only have to shorten my stock 240Z J-hook rod. I believe it will line up much better. Total $80-$300 3. Convert to cable linkage. $15 for the Extrudabody Throttle Cam, $15-$20 for the cable and another $25 for the firewall bracket. Total $60-$80 My problem is my linkage needs to align perfect with the short runner Mikuni manifold. If you look at Buck's triples on a long runner, the rod is in perfect alignment with the manifold rod and not offset at all.. thus no binding: The same goes for how SU's are aligned right on top of the intake manifold linkage: Decisions, decisions..... ????!!!!???? Although I did swap in my 42lb green tops:

Looks great garvice!

Alright while doing some other odds and ends like putting some spark plug wire spacers and doing the vacuum lines for the ITB's the throttle linkage was giving me the stink eye. First here are some pictures of the odds and ends: I had to use my dremel to open these plastic spacers up to fit my big arse Scott wires Vacuum line ran from the intake to the Extrudabody Air Log then out to each ITB. Now, after staring at the linkage mount for an hour or so I unhooked it all and moved the bracket over. So the right side bracket bolt hole is now in the left side bolt huh, pretty ingenious for an hour of contemplating. I think it will work, I just need to get my dremel in there and use a tiny drill bit for a pilot hole and put in a self tapping screw because there is no room to get a drill in there or from the inside the heater box and ummm I don't know the DASH is in the way HA!! I extended the rod that goes from the welded on pivot boot to the bracket I just moved. I still have a good two turns left on the threads and it’s locked down with the lock nut. Take note of the position of the stock rod, it’s not facing down towards the header anymore it’s on its side now. The chunk of aluminum on the end of the Mikuni manifold is slid all the way down on the rod and it spins 360 degrees and you use the 3 set screws to tighten it in place. I don’t think it matters what position the hook is in on the end of the stock rod or does it? Here are those pics. Give me some feedback while I go jump back on the wiring.

Thanks! now back to the garage...

Mobile Spec purchased from a stereo shop local to me.

On the top of the inline fuse where there is no wire (in this picture) comes from the starter. It then passes through the inline fuse curves around and goes in the lower part of the distro block. On the top is where things that need +12 constant source can be added. The orange wire you see is for the aftermarket gauges, it needs both keyed and constant +12. I gave everything one spot so i am not tapping in 100 different places on the 40 year old wiring harness. I'll post more pics when it is done, hope I explained it well.

So I have a Mikuni short runner intake manifold bolted to my Extrudabody ITB's. Geometry is telling me if I cut and bend the stock rod it aint gonna work. So after a long conversation with Buck there is some Mikuni "mystery bracket" out there that moves the “early†stock 240Z firewall bolted linkage mount point closer towards the hood latch. This will allow for a straight shot with only shortening and welding the stock linkage rod back together. See visualizations of the now: See she is short: Decisions, decisions....: 1.) I have this 5.5 inch long bracket and I was thinking if I space this off of the firewall, use the stock holes for its mount, then mount the stock bracket to the "extender" bracket over an inch or so this might work?? The top rod that goes from the bolted linkage part to the welded on body linkage part I can loosen it to give me the inch or so I need to move it closer to have close to no angle for the mechanical linkage. 2.) Or bolt the longer bracket to the stock location and weld the stock bracket to it and shorten the linkage rod? 3.) My other choice is when I go turbo I know I am going to have to convert to a throttle cable over my mechanical linkage. So why not convert it now with something like this from Savage42? I would need to buy some other parts to finish the "cable" conversion from Extrudabody: http://www.extrudabody.biz/servlet/the-Throttle-Control/Categories I love the feel of the mechanical throttle over the cabled but if I have to convert to cable then so be it... Sorry if this doesn't make sense I am whooped and it's late.

Phil, A couple of things and I don't know if this has been asked: 1. Have you tried another boost gauge? 2. Can you isolate the BOV line to the manifold? I think you said in the video you have it teed off the brake booster line? If so, I think that the brake booster vacuum line should always be isolated. 3. I read somewhere the shorter the boost controller vacuum lines the quicker the response. I can't remember if this was for manual and or electronic controllers too. Try to shorten the lines like you mentioned and run your tests again?

Thanks!

Thanks for the comments. I think I'll run the oil cooler until the I/C is ready to go in then I'll decide. The passenger side straight heater line near the oil sandwich plate would be ideal for an exchanger, there is plenty of room on that side...

When you had this SDS in your 240Z did you have the stock 240Z tach or aftermarket? I have had this tach adapter for a couple of years....

Great job one of the cleanest (with original bumper w/ over rider bar) 280Z I have seen to date.

What are you up too?

Jesus I thought it was one of those Halloween scare your a$$ things at the end of the video was about to happen when the mount fell off the windshield, scared the crap out of me hahahaha.... Nice BP What's the verdict on the 90 pie gonna keep her??

Everything is almost done. All that is left is the dreaded tach adapter, Zs-ondabrain parking light harness and some misc things. Tonight I worked on dressing in the main wiring under the dash and finished installing the wideband. I replaced the distro block with the fused distro block. almost done from the left: +12 constant hot distro, grounding block, +12 constant inline fuse, (above) relay for +12 key switch, +12 keyed distro block *new*, fuel pump relay, electric fan relay.

How did you hook up the 280Z tach? Did you use a tach adapter? Of the two methods discussed what say you? I have a nice kerosene heater that keeps it a brisk 75 degrees.

So I emailed them yesterday to ask if a MSD tach adapter is required for hookup to make my stock "current triggered" 240Z tach work? If so would the tach signal wire from the coil packs connect to the MSD tach adapter (white wire) and the signal from the + side of my coil go to the red wire. Well, so I am more confused. Use the tach adapter, don't use the tach adapter, tap the tach signal behind the tach, now use the + side from the coil and take that to the power wire (I know its the same as tapping from behind the tach, just the other end), don't use the signal wire from the SDS coil pack ahhhhhh. I am not discrediting what anyone is saying I just want to know what is correct. Now we have all sides of the story on the table. Austin when you had the SDS did you use the stock tach, I don't remember? What are your thoughts? I really don't want to screw this up! Also by the looks of your post with the wiring laid on the fender it looks like your friends Z is a 280Z? Did he use a stock tach or after market, coilpacks, if so how did you do hook his up? Thanks everyone,