OlderThanMe

plus you can see different colors in the weld with the Speedglas. With the HF one you see green light. It really helps to be able to keep a same length arc by the colors coming from the weld and gasses etc...

A while back I went to a high power rifle shoot with my uncle and here is one of my targets at 100 yards. This is with an Ar-15 that weighs 13 pounds (pretty light) and had good sights. This was in the prone position. This was my first time shooting any gun more powerful than a .22 caliber pop gun. I have shot a 12 guage but I'm not very good with skeet shooting. I know the Doc is pretty good but I want to see targets! oh btw..here is a picture of me and my ghillie suit for when I play paintball...this is in my back yard. It's pretty fun to have someone walk within 10 feet of you and not see you. It's even better when they look stright at your eyes and stare for a few seconds and then keep going. They never saw the paint rounds come in.

Well I am back home after having to withdraw from college. I broke my jaw in a bicycle accident and could not get enough nutrition down there. Try 700-900 calories a day... Anyway I am looking to start my turbo engine. Su carbs, medium boost, non intercooled, and a stock T3 turbo. Behind the T3 will be a larger turbo (maybe holset) to get high end boost when the T3 runs out of air. Not sure what BOV yet. Still looking for what is cheap. I would like to get my hands on an F54 block to use. I ave a P30 block but that won't really work well for my setup except for mocking it up. We'll see how long it will last done up cheap.

I'll put up a pic of my highly modified HF helmet today. I am looking at getting a Miller 200dx TIG machine and since my HF helmet does not do so well at low amperage TIG I'll get a nicer speedglas 9002x or similar helmet. Back when I was in welding school I have seen several Miller elmets go bad and one or two Lincoln helmets go bad. The HF helmets are about a 50/50 chance of getting a good one. I have been lucky and have 2 good ones. The only problem with the newer HF helmet is the ledge below the fiewing window tends to catch big sparks and molten bits and starts to melt through.

It wasn't drag racing...it was road racing at Laguna Seca... Just be sure that your child drives a nissan at least...

Well I should have another idea coming in the next day or two... The one with the viper type roof was for giggles...not really much practicality with putting that roof on a Z...I agree that a rear bumper would look good on the rear of that sketch. It is sort of missing something though... I am seriously thinking of doing a true widebody on my Z and not just wider fenders like the scarab body kit. I am thinking 2" wider on each side and I'll reskin the doors and fenders. Thus not increasing weight by TOO much. I am going for weight reduction and all. I just think that a slight widebody of 2" on a Z would make it look lower and make the roof not look as tall as it is by widening the whole thing. I'll probably take some 1/4" steel roundbar pieces exactly 2" wide with a pencil-like point at one end to place the panels and once they are welded on cut out everything underneath. The front fenders will be easy to do since they can be removed and the doors will be harder. The rears will be pretty hard though as I will be moving the taillights outboard as well. I need to get my hands on some 240Z taillights though since I don't want to use my 280Z style taillights that are in perfect condition (read: somebody buy them from me for $100!).

I try to do that always...very good point. I get frustrated when I get told to search for something and I can't find what I am looking for since the title of the thread is completely non-descript. Sort of makes it hard to find the wealth of information that is on HybridZ. Anyway good point and everyone should follow this guideline... I seem to remember a thread a few months back about the same or a similar problem.

well that is just a scarab body kit but just modified quite a bit. I'd much rather get my neighbor's SBC 280z that is mostly stock and has a nice paint job and then redo the suspension. He is selling his for like $7500 and it is worth it if I had the money...but I decided to buy this money pit...

I am rewiring my car...with no kit. The rewire is SOO worth it even though I am not using a kit and am doing it all from scratch.

http://www.vildinimotorsport.com

Whispering in your ear as you sleep... Big phil.....you don't want that block.... ship it to OTM like you should be doing anyway... ... build your N42.... Just playin...lol

I have an 11lb SPEC flywheel. My old flyweel was like 28 pounds was it worth it? YES!!! The motor is an L26 with roudtos and a rare header but still mostly stock. Throttle response became instant! Just watch the 260Z comercial and look how slow the tach moves when he revvs the engine. Now it is SOOO much better. Unfortunately my engine had a bearing go on a connecting rod. Now time to upgrade...Lightweight flywheel for the rest of the life of my Z.

3" should be enough maybe...There will be more than one turbo though... a stock or slightly modified nissan T3 and a holset hy35w...placed consecutively placed and not side by side. Should start boosting at 2500 and then bypass to the holset once the T3 spools up. Don't worry about the T3 limiting the holset...I have a way around it..

Well I had a honeycomb ready to go in but never did since I needed wind that was going to have to be like 1300mph... I may still make one with a high power fan just to play with different designs. I figure that if I have a powerful enough fan I can see if something creates a huge aerodynamic problem. Mostly for testing out front ends rather than testing the drag of mirrors...In my pics I was just helping the model dry so I did not have any honeycomb in there at the time. I am just now in college and had never heard of the reynolds number before hearing about on hybridz. I wil be taking some fluid dynamics courses in the future since my major is mechanical engineering. Hopefully by then I can be testing my widebody design that I want to implement onto my Z.

Mike: you forgot...I don't do alcohol, smoking, or any other addictive or "bad for you" stuff. 2003z Mike: Thanks! It sure will go by fast. I will need get some stuff powdercoated this summer. Can you do high heat powdercoating for exhaust stuff and a turbo? Or is there even such a thing? DRTY260Z: Thanks man. The surgeon said the procedure went perfectly and there were no problems.

well I have decided to do something different. L26 turbo... I have a couple things that I would need to figure out how to do. I would need to o-ring the block. Now the L26 P30 block is notched for the bigger valves so I would have to get an oring larger than the notched section. I am thinking of boring the block .040" bigger to get to 2630cc instead of the stock 2560cc. I'm looking at some nice custom forged JE pistons from racetep. Compression ratio will be about 8.1:1 or 8.3:1. I should be pushing near 10psi by the end of next summer with megasquirt. I sort of have a 270hp cap by my 225mm Spec stage 2+ clutch which I will upgrade later. The motor was probably making in the 180-190 HP range but I would like to be at a conservative 250hp with the ability to make over 300 with a stronger clutch and higher boost. The car will be a daily driver and a good roll cage, kirkey road racing seats and 4 point belts will be going in with the motor since I will need the protection. Some of you may have seen my thread about breaking my jaw into 4-5 pieces from wrecking my bicycle so I am going to take every precaution to make my car safe. Things to do: o-ring block, 1. bore block over .040"(1mm), 2. decide on forged pistons, 3. get proper head gasket, 4. have cylinder head worked over and opened up, 5. build my turbo system, 6. 3.5" or twin 2.25" exhaust, 7. reassemble engine with all new ARP hardware including head studs and Clevite 77 bearings

4-6 weeks of a liquid diet.

Hey guys. I just got out of surgery. It is basically a solid piece of metal glued to my teeth on the top and bottom. The hooked me up with rubber bands instead of wires incase I had to open up in an emergency like if I started puking or something. I am now on a full liquid diet. Hoke: I tried a blended cheese burger and it tasted pretty good. Now that my jaw is sealed up no more soft foods. I am at panera bread now getting some soup. The surgery was delayed about 4 times this last week and found out on wednesday that my surgery would be today, a full week after my accident. Exactly one week ago I was headed here at this time but wrecked my bicycle. I came in a car this time. I am in much less pain now as my lower jaw can not shift around like it was doing.

just put a filler neck on your fuel cell.

IMO most people with the GTOs just want to copy a ferrari which to do correctly they need to change the roof. It LOOKS like a ferrari with a Z roof...

Here is another idea I had a while back...I like it. It is a little off but not bad.

yes they are looking good (full face helmets)... especially since I do a bunch of actual mountain biking back home. A new set of gears looks really good as well. I just bought a set of fenders and a lock/cable and a bunch of other bike stuff.

aha...yeah I stink a little....hard to brush teeth when my bottom jaw is in 5 pieces...just try to rinse out with a little H2O2 and hope for the best. I wasn't even doing any fast downhill mountain biking!!! I have gone faster than that going over small jumps and tight turns and between very tight trees...I guess it is good for mountainous areas...not Florida... The surgery will be Tuesday or Wednesday...go figure.

and a nearly 2" gash...I think I am going to have surgery today... my left hand has a 1.5" circle where most of the skin was ripped all the way off.

well I have a jay leno huge chin now from the swelling... do you want a close up of the 10-12 stitches?