OlderThanMe

that is really cool! they also have a 30 amp relay for $1.39 I was geting them for $3 at auto-zone...

AH! So the master shows his tools! I have a couple carbide bits but unfortunately they are for ferous metals. Time to pull out the Rutland Tool catalog and order some!

Pretty good. My welding instructor always try to keep the torch moving consistantly. I would use a Zig-Zag pattern for almost EVERY weld. MIG, TIG, or stick. I'll put up a pic of an overhead 1/4"steel "T" joint TIG weld I did... It was 6" long and took about 4 minutes. Near perfection. I try to make the bumps as small as possible and doing a zig-zag reduces the size of the bumps.

Aaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Insane!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can only say, yourcar is going to look sweet when you do this bodywork...you just have to have a good motor to back it up...Were talking 450 horsepower ...mmm..yummy! I am going to want a fatter and taller BRE spoiler on my Z when I get to body work...

sigh...They are already wired...I'll use those on my next Z...one day... all of those loose wires are getting put into convoluted conduit. you can se my last minute attempt to seal my gas pedal linkage before I went to that car show... SUs make a lot of fumes...

www.turbotbird.com just googled them up... these guys know about 2.3Ts...they put them in the back of VW bugs and ofroad them...pushing 20+psi boost http://www.vwbaja.net/forum.htm

I am thinking if you want to build a turbo car for basically nothing then there you go!

hmm... unless you use it on the intake side of the turbo... then it is a vacuum.

I always thought " Why not use the radiator from an air conditioner or freezer as an intercooler?" It looks the same. Aluminium tubes running back and forth with thin aluminium like a regular radiator.

I'll most likely be doing a fuel cell (99.5% chance) next year so that is in the plans for the loudmouth. I have already saved more than 100 pounds easy from interior junk. Maybe 150 pounds. I'll weigh it sometime. My early 260 bumpers are petty heavy as well. I must have removed 300-400 pounds that is not going back into the car. My dash only weighs like 2 pounds opposed to the stock 30 something pounds. I probably saved 2 pounds just in relays. From like 12-15 down to 5 relays. If anyone would like to purchase my gas tank it was stripped and recoated 2 years ago. The bottom side needs a repaint as I have had to go on a few dirt roads on deleveries last year. The interior was sealed with a red paint. It cost me like $120 for the stripping and coating. Plus you get 2 gallons of premium gas with it as well!

Most likely bad U-joints. My new driveshaft rear U-joint has worn considerabally over the last 4k miles. It has a little bit of slop. I think it is from hard acceleration twisting the diff around. It was old moustache bar bushings and a new diff mount. I think the stock diff mount is too flexy. Maybe I can modify it to not push up.

Just have an exhaust shop weld it! Or some offroad shop... both can weld on thinner steel with good exp. I had a muffler shop weld my seat back together before I knew how to weld. They only charged me $15 for 5"-6" of weld...not bad.

BRE with 3-4 in. wider at the bottom on each side would look complete the line on theside of the drawing. Even if you leave the top of the spoiler the same width and widen the bottom to meet the fender crease...

Thanks! I just got the driver's side bumper shock off since the exhaust is out. I am not even going to try the passenger side with the gas tank in the car.

haha... I knew a guy that had his wife rent him a black Mustang GT for his birthday. Very little tread was left when he turned it back in 3 days later. lol. he was the first on to rent that car too. Brand new!

Hey WigenOut, Weren't you going to put some ZG flares on your car?

My cleaned up ignition system. I felt after disecting the stock redundant harness that putting the ignition unit in the engine bay would be better. This unit will probably be for sale soon. It is a stock replacement with 5 minutes of run time. Works excellent. You can hear it run in my videos. The stance is not too bad looking for having the motor and tranny out...Of course that is with full length struts and stock hats. a ittle shot of my half completed fusebox/wiring panel with temporary labels. All crimp connectors are soldered not crimped! That is all for now folks! More to come!

Here is 240hoke's engine bay... pretty clean if you ask me Here is how I ran my cheapo temporary ignition box. The harness goes into the fender to be clean looking. The blue and green wires are water temp sensor wires. They will be rewired and hidden soon enough. I kept full length of all the MSD wires since I wil be going with a better system sooner or later. Notice my "custom" coil mount...lol You will never guess what I made it from.

well if you come across an extra supercharger let me know...lol My local city dump has a full size dumpster filled with just aluminium...And if they catch you taking stuff out they get upset... I just need to find some company that throws away good stuff...not any around here though. Maybe down near my college by the ocean thee will be some shipyards that throw out "gold". I got a piece of 1/4" thick 2" leg angle iron that was about 7 feet long. I'll make some jig out of it in the future most likely. I have a half completed A-Arm Jig that I made out of some 3/16" steel "T" bar that a friend had that came from a oversized garage door opener. I have a buddy that got a piece of I beam, from an older man, that was 3 feet long, 12" wide top and bottom and about a 30" tall center part. It was in excess of 1/2" thick!

well somebody needs to met down a few Z heads (to have the correct alloy) and cast a DOHC head. Using a three piece head is pretty cool but I don't really trust them not being welded together. Then you could angle the intake valve and have a perfectly straight intake runner and you could... I digress. I am collecting Mountain dew cans and am eventually going to melt them down in a cast iron pot to see if I can make castings of stuff and then weld the castings together. Here is a test to see how good of an aluminium welder you are. Take two cola cans and position them bottoms toward each other in a piece of angle ron and tack them together (not as easy as it sounds). Once that task is done then try to run beads around the cans so that in 5 minutes you have two completely fused cans. The first time I tried it I got about an inch around and it just blew a 1/2" hole in the cans. Weld it quickly and then let it cool by putting it in front of your ventalation (you use it when you weld right?) to pull air across it (don't dunk it in water). I finally got a full bead around a pair of cans but it was not pretty. ugly beads...but it held!

how much can you spend? I bought my 260 that had not run for 5 years for $2k..probably should have been $1400 but whatever. At least my framerails are strong. It has some rust but not all that bad. Car was wrecked in late 70's in the front left and right and rear right. Car was wrecked again in the late 80s or early 90s on the front left corner. My car must have had 3/4 of a gallon of bondo on it. Now 2.5 years later and several $$$$ later it is doing good but still need to do bodywork. What are you planning on bilding? SBC/SBF Z? L6 Z?

saw it on Zcar.com I was not posting... just peeking..

yeah. I agree with Forrest. That TB won't add 15hp... Get some tokico blue struts or if you want to splurge get the adustable illuminas. What I liked the best for the money was my polyurethane steering rack bushings. Like $15 and makes the handeling much more crisp than with 30 year old rubber. I really like playing with suspension so I say save up a grand and do a coilover setup, illuminas, and poly bushings. Makes the car ride like a modern sportscar!

that is really cool!!!