Cody 82 ZXT

You could use bioth types of welder to get the job done. I have a mig welder and they work fine for this. You will want to weld them up and check for leaks by doing what Sparky said or by pressurising (sp) the pipes some how and looking and listening for leaks. No dought it won't be perfect the first time out but, it's either that or spend the money for a professional to do it.

Bastaad 525, I wouldn't worry about the "loss" of HP with the P-90A head they guy that told me that has been wrong about so many other things that I don't hold much faith in whatever he told me. I just wanted to ask to see if anyone on here had experienced the same thing or knew about it at all. I must have the "moth ball" forumla for Chem-Dip. The stuff I used made me think it might even eat some of the metal. When I did my engine last summer I cleaned everything I could with the stuff and it all came out looking like new or better. This stuff works great on old bolts that are dirty and need to be cleaned before going back into a new engine and stuff. They smell is just crazy to. When I was using the stuff alot I would have to come in the house and put my clothes in the washer right away or it would smell up the house. Certainly one of those use in well ventalated area chemicals.

I was told at one point in time by a what is supposed to be a very relieable sorce that the hydralic lifter heads cost you about 15 to 20 hp over the other head. Anyone know if this is true? I've got a P-90 on the car now but, I also have a P90A at the house on a spare engine and I thought I might swap it over when I do a cam change so I wouldn't have to mess with the valve adjustment anymore. Anyone? Anyone? David, have you ever tried using Chem-Dip? It's a nasty chemical that you can buy at just about any autoparts house for about 12 bucks a gallon. It has a metal basket and all in it and is made to soak parts in. This prduct would be perfect for cleaning these lifters of all the junk in them. That way you wouldn't have to do it on the stove. Just a thought. The stuff is really bad a** but, don't get it on your skin!!!

Well, the more I've thought about it the more I think this needs to be addressed. I've had a feeling like this or something like it was going to come up. Lets deal with it and get it over with. The decision makers need to make the decision and make it public record what ever that is. I want to again say I would like the site to stay as it is. I enjoyed it more when there were more forums but, I understand the reasoning behind the consolidation of the site and the direction of most of it. If there were a place on the web that had the same members and you could get the same information then I wouldn't have as much of a hard time with being kicked out of a large portion of the site. As of right now there is no place on the web or anywhere else in the world that you can get the same information with the good nature that is the character of this site.

Good one DAW! Had me going there for a second! I'm certainly going to follow with Sleeper here. Although my car is not the idel hybrid by any means it does represent what can be done by swapping parts from different years in the Nissan and Datsun bloodline. Is that not a Hybrid? Thats just the way I've choosen to build my car. I would hate to think that I could no longer post questions or answers about the L series motors in the Turbo/Supercharger forum. That one forum is my favorite place on the web. I don't think I've ever seen anyone post anything negative about a SBC in that forum so I don't see why it is felt that the L series motors are crowding out the forum. If you ask me as far as this is concerned the more the merrier.

So basically your telling us that you didn't follow the go easy on it for 500 miles and watch all the gauges real close procuders and now your having proublems again. Not trying to flame you here and I know it sounds like it but, it seems as though you've gotten into workoing on this with more emotion than thinking. Slow down and take it easy on the car until it's all working perfectly then dog the crap out of it.

Try oiling it and making sure that all the bolts are tight and not letting air our the sides. Mine was doing the same thing and I thought it was toast. Tightened it back up and all was good. It hadn't worked that good in a long time.

Your right it is simple to use. All you do is get the right socket if needed and put on the end like you would a socket wrench. Since many of the newers cars belts are very close to the strut tower it is not a ratching type of wrench. The end that is shorter is used when you can only get to the tensioner with a wrench that has a bend in it. Put on the long bar as needed. It can be in many different shapes.

That happens to me quite often. I thought it was just me. I usally just restart my computer and all of the sudden I have pics. Sometimes it takes me logging off and then back on.

Hey Moby, are those Rally tires on that thing? J/K So how well does this new mod work? Notice any difference?

I'm guessing you ment onramp?? Hehee

You would want to tee off your BOV and your FPR. If your going to use a vacuum source from the intake then you would want it to have it's own line. The reason this will give alittle better response is due to the fact that it will take alittle longer for the intake to pressurise vs. the time it takes for the compressor housing to pressurise. This small difference in time will let the turbo spool slightly higher for a momet and let the boost spike above it's setting. It does work and you should feel the differnce but, in my opinion it is a good way to hurt parts in a system that is not tuned to have a boost spike like that. If your system has enough headroom for the added boost (fuel) them it shouldn't be a proublem.

Well, I think your right in not being satified with the work they gave you. Yes it looks it will function but, not to the extent that a performance shop should be able to produce. Was this thier first intercooler install? Looks very amature to me. I agree with Nathan about not letting anyone else work on my car. Seems like no matter what it is the service is subpar with what I could do myself for less money. This is why I started really doing more and more things myself. If it turns out wrong or doesn't work I don't have anyone to blame but myself. One of the nice things about Hybrid Z is that all the members here will help guide you through the bumps that can come along when fabricating parts. I would suggest buy some power tools and manderal bends and get them all cut where you want them then tape them together tightly and have professional welder weld them up for you.

I've had the 90* bend and K&N set-up since long before it became popluar to do so. I drive my ZX everyday in any type of weather. All you have to do is not be an idiot and you won't get water in the intake pipe. If your dumb enough to drive your car into water that is that deep then you deserve to hydrolock your engine. It is really just that simple. With a real K&N filter and 90* pipe you'll pick a couple of HP and some MPH.

I know what ya mean about "Speed Shops". I've had a copuple of bad experiences with speed shops in the past also. Really the name often does not apply to the time it takes to get the job done. Doesn't seem to matter if the job is done right or not. I don't know what type of recourse you would have but, I certainly talk to the shop manager.

Looks good Juan. Can't wait to see the finished product. What was the combo going to come out like with the AP calipers. I know you just selling the hats and adapters but, what is it all based on?

nice #'s. Did you do the tunning? Sounds like you are like most of us who could use some bigger and stickier tires. I was surprised to see that your 280 Z weighed that much.

Just an FYI I had my turbo redone buy Majestic a year ago and so far no proublems.

I really think that it's a matter of every engine is different and the 500 mile "rule" is a good and safe guideline. When I did my engine last year it bearly smoked at all during the breakin process. Others I've talked to say theirs took forever to stop smoking. I did the no oil on the rings thing that Blue Oval talked about and it makes sense to me to use some WD-40 lighted coating the walls. I think most if not all of the oil or what ever is burned off during the first minuite or so of engine operation. I just don't see how anything could hold onto the cylinder walls with the engine firing and the rings scraping it clean.

Well my only real valet story I have was when I went to have my follow visit after having to have a peice of metal plucked out of my eye and the rust drilled out. Talk about fun and that was what happened while I was porting the exhaust manifold for the Z. Anyway, the medical center had valet parking only as it's in a conjested part of Dallas. When it's finally my turn to get out of the car and hand the guy the key he takes them and just looks at me. I walked to the curb which was blocked by several other cars and the guy thought I was gone. He then looks in the car and yells out to a friend "Hey Johnny it's TURBO and STICK. I'm sure you really smoke the tires in this one. Wanna drive it?" I yelled back to him " Hey buddy whats up with that?" Suddenly the manager who previously couldn't care less hopped out of his seat and took the keys. Who knows what they did but, the car felt and looked alright when I got it back. Ofcourse the whole time I was there I had visions of the seen in Ferris Buelers Day Off when the guy takes Camrons dad's Ferrari out for a nice little spin. [/b]

I work for an autoparts store and we really do get people that come in with stuff like that. Ocasionally it's funny like that but, really annoying when they get mad when you can't figure out what in the world they are talking about. Especcially when they have no idea of what size the motor is and you can't tell them what they have in their car. Oh well so is life.... I'll take this one to work. Thanks for the funny story.

You can get the seals at Auto Zone for like 10 bucks for both of them. You'll have to look the # up under a 87 or so 300ZX. There is no listing for the ealier cars if I remember correctly. If the guy tells you it N/A tell him to look again.

Brad/Stoney What kind of performance plan do you have for your cars? I'd love to do the swap if it weren't so much $$. Maybe in a couple of years. Not only that I still have so much more I can do with the L-28. After I get it closer to maxed out I start thinking about RB power.