Cody 82 ZXT

I've used them before and was very happy with what I got. I did something similar to what your doing and the cost was about 40 bucks. Ofcourse this was 7 years ago.

Sounds sweet keep us updated

Thanks, I got it.

Yes, unfortunatley I did so several other mods at the same time so I really couldn't tell you exactley what effect it had on total power or spool up. I will tell you this though I had almost 1/4" smaller opening than what my T3 turbine housing is. Needless to say that it was not able to flow as much as it would have before I did the porting. If you ever had a stock manifold off and in your hands you can feel that in some places there is almost an inch of metal. The area around the exhaust exit is especially thick. I should have taken more before pictures.

Is the rear end a R-200? If so will the fined cover fit any R-200?

By the time you had the manifold Extrude Honed and hand ported wouldn't you almost have spent engough for a custom header?

Yes it can be done.

Personally I think I would pass on it.

Good question!

Yes, I ported my manifold that one my car now. Cost really depends on what tools you may already have if your going to do it yourself. If you already have a compressor then you will need a Die Grinder and some Carbide porting tools. That should run you in the area of 100.00 or less depending on where you purchase everything. If you don't have a compressor then you can buy a electric die grinder at Sears for 100.00 bucks. Then ofcourse you'll need the cutting tools. I higely recommend some ear plugs and at the very least some goggles or safety glasses. A face sheild wouldn't be a bad idea here. It take awhile to do but the efforts and the money are well worth it. By the way the electric die grinder is easier to use in my experience. It's heavier (doesn't bounce around as much)and has more power than the air powered units. Of course I only have a 30 gallon oil less compressor so that may have something to so with my disliking of the air powered units. Heres one pics that I found of how much can be taken out. As you can see the top manifold has a much smoother path for the exhaust gases to flow in to the turbine housing. Also in each runner you can take out the humps of extra metal in the top of the runner. You don't have to go crazy removing metal to make a better flowing product. By the way that pile of stuff in the background is metal that was removed.

A ported stock manifold can supports a good amount of power. There is alot of metal that can be removed that will help with spoolup.

I got to see it this morning. Looks like some good plumbing.

LMAO, Juyst in case the ole porsche decides to pull a LeMans and flip over! It's all about the down force. Should have plenty with the matress. The matress thing was a joke going around between a bunch of Speed(vision) World Challenge guys in 2000. There was a lot of "spirited" discussion about spoiler heights being changed on 911s, other things as well, so the guys just started making fun of themselves. If you go to the World Challenge forums on the SCCA Pro site, you can search the archives from 2000 for more of these creative spoilers and splitters. Thanks for the explanation. I don't get to follow much of the "world" other than what I'm directly in lately.

Putting a dead battery on a car will kill the alternator on it. An alternator is designed to maintain a battery not fully charge it. I would take the battery to almost any auto parts store and ask them to test it. For the testing procedure to be done right the battery will have to be charged first. Ofcourse you could just ask them to charge it. They'll proubly do without any proublems.

I certainly agree with Joel here. I run a clutch from Dial-a-Clutch that is easy to use but, the spring pressure is alittle high. So far I've had no proublems with it at the track or on the street. My car is proublably the heavist one on this board and that can be another factor in how well a clutch holds up.

I run the Profec B and I'm very happy with it. Easy to use and you can adjust on the fly. You do have to have some control over yourself. It's easy to dial in to much boost if you get gready. Also a friend of mine runs on of the MBC's that are ball and spring type and he says it works well. One suggestion that I see is that you would want to run the finest thread you could on the threads for the adjustment screw. That way you would have to turn the screw more to get a given boost change. This would make for a finer adjustment and better boost control.

Make sure to have that battery fully charged before you go to try and start it up. You'll be glad you did if you have any proublems and have to make adjustments and try again. My biggest suggestion is to read and reread how to put the head on and get the cam lined up correctly. Take your time and it should go well for you. Let us know if need help during the install.

Thats got to be some kind of record. 35.00 a month

I just don't understand the matress thing???????? Why?

8.4 @ 88.36

Best of luck to ya. Let us know how it's going when you can.

Whats this going to be made out of? How will you make it since both the intake and the exhaust use the same bolts for clamping force?