Cody 82 ZXT

Welcome to Texas! Let us know when you get here.

Whats nice about a bigger turbo that is sized correctly is that you can also do that in other gears. In my set-up with 245/45/17's with 3.7 LSD I can still spin the tires at will in 2nd gear.

Sorry, not trying to flame you but, you certainly had your share of proublems with this swap and I would hate to hear that you had more trouble when it could be avoided. I don't blame you for wanting to get it rolling with all the goodies working correctly.

I've had the same proublem that your having also. I happen to still have been able to adjust the pedal to an acceptable level still. Seems like everytime I change my clutch the pedal moves more and more. Although I haven't confirmed it I had decieded in my head that the clutch fork must be bent. Now ith you having similar proublems maybe that not the case.

Sounds like you've overtightened it to me.

Nathan is your clutch fork bent?

I would think that after all the trouble and expense you've gone through you could find the time to break the engine in right. Use straght ND30 and the atleast the 500 mile breaking in period. Make sure to vary your RPM's and try to stay out of the gas if you can.

Give it awhile you'll change your mind. A larger turbo with more top end grunt will beat a small turbo that petters out before you hit the top end. Another factor in losing the top end charge is the engine program it's self. After I changed my computer the top end really came alive.

Brad, those are some nice #'s. Are the Hoosiers full slicks or cheaters? Wonder how much and LSD would help you?

So what are you thinking maybe subframe connectors or what? Right now I think a floor pan kit would be a good idea. The ZX is starting to really age and some of these type items would be a good idea. A good strut bar that will fit with the stock L-28 and maybe even a SBC in it would be good. Better motor mounts for the L-28 engine. Just some quick thoughts here. Let me know If you come up with anything.

Th engines themselves are pretty hardy like any of the Z car L series engines. Make sure all the sensors ae clean and working prouperly. Also make sure all your grounds are clean and secure.

You shouldn't have any proublem since it's an Auto even if you are going to change it to manuel.

What are your plans for the car? Daily Driver? Donor for transplant into earlier Z?

I've got the same proublem with mine. I replaced the rear diff bushing and it helped but, didn't solve it. For the most part the noise just went away for awhile but, is now back since I replaced the rear end with an LSD unit. I'm begining to think mine may be a worn out CV on the outer side of the passnger side axle. I checked at work on a replcement but, the guy that rebuilds them said he had no idea when he would be able to send one so I cancelled my order. I checked with a local drivetrain shop and they quoted my about 70 dollars if they could get everything.

My rims fit on the back without spacers also. The fronts fit better now than the stock rims did.

I really wish I had an exact diagram for how the vacum lines go and exactly what they do. I have studied it some but, it's been about two years siince I tried to have it running perfectly with those dodads hooked up. Now I don't have any snce I'm running a different ECU. If I can get some time tonight I'll look and see if I can find the page in the FSM that has the diagram.

I know one of them controls the EGR functions.

I forgot about Zoom, that is definatley the best mad out there for me. I hate that it's 8 buck an issue here.

My rims are actually for a Honda Prelude and are still 4 bolt hole rims. The brand is Chormadora and were made in Italy. I'm told the are NLA so I hope nothing happens to these. What most people do instead of spending big bucks on custom made rims with the correct offset they run spacers or adapters to change the offset requirement. My adapters are 1.5" think and they bolt to the hub and then the rim bolts to the adapters. I bought them here http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php e-mail Ross for any questions he is very helpful and has excellent service. Centerline has a few rims that are 17x7 that have come out in the last year and look pretty good on a ZX also plus they are the right offset so no need for adapters.

I running the Motorsport Auto spring with the Tokicos for shocks and struts. I also put on polyurethane bushings on the swaybars and this is a big bang for the bucks on these cars. Like Afshin said I'm also going to change out the rear control arm bushing but, haven't gotten around to it yet, I even have the parts sitting in the garage. Rims and tires are 235/40/17 and 245/45/17 the larger rims and tires really helped the handling of the car also.

Personally, Sport Compact Car is my favorite. Seems like the tech articles are more to my liking. Seveal years ago Turbo was a totally different magazine than what it is today. It had more tech and less flash also it was rarley less than 200 to 300 pages. Now it's more flash and always less than 200 pages. For my 5 bucks a month it's Sport Compact Car and one or two of the others. If I had the resources I would just start my own mag. Mostly it would be based on home grown projects something like Grassroots Motorsports but, on a more street and forced induction theme. Anyone, want to come up with the start up Doh?

I quit reading that mag. since you find the same info in atleast 3 differnt mags almost all in the same month. I think they are owned by the same company. Anyway, I think Scotty GNZ needs to represent Hybrid Z on this one. I lost almost all of my good pics of my car or I would send something in just to show him an example of what modern 280 ZX should look and run like..

If the brake booster was out wouldn't that make the breaks have even more pedal pressure?

So what are you doing to get enough tracktion to be able to break the CV's?