Cody 82 ZXT

Your temp while at 80 MPH sounds alittle high to me. I'm running about 1300 to 1350 at the same MPH. Isn't toluene fun. I can run 17 psi on the 93 octane we get here but, with a 30% toluene ratio added I can run well over 20 PSI. I raced a very hot LT1 Trans-Am one night on the way home from the track and I held over 20psi (gauge only goes to 20) and who knows how much EGT long enough to show the the LT1 guy who was boss and had no proublems. I pulled 5700 RPM's in 5th gear so I was at full load on the engine as well. Needless to say it was because of the higher octane octane of the fuel.

I've got the Nissan gasket and ARP studs and it's held fine at over 20 PSI when I was runing some race gas. Just make sure your block and head are fllat and almost any gasket will do a good job unless you get into detonation.

Theres only a couple of wires on them so I would think that it is wired wrong just maybe set wrong. Check the manuel for how the switches in the back are to be set and make sure the hoses are routed correctly. One goes tot he wastegate and the onther to the vacum/boost signal line from the manifold. Set the first knob to the middle postion to start with then you could tune from there. These are very easy to use and should work good for you.

I had a guy come into work a couple of months ago and after some conversation he told me about a setup he had on his GN running alcohol injection. He said he could run 18 PSI on pump gas and then 25 PSI with the alcohol injection turned on. He was very happy with the performance it added to the car.

I bought mine from Summit also. They had the best price and free shipping.

I've heard the same thing about the P-90a cam being advanced. Also the timimg spec on the 81 is 20* and the 82/83 is 24*.

Well, I had some long winded reply to the gap question but, I lost it all so I'll just say I run the stock .044 until the car missfires under load and then regap to .032. That was when I was runing the 82 computer now I can run the stock gap until the plugs are changed out when I feel it's time. About a year is all I ever go without changing them out no matter what.

1. Sounds like a good place to me. 2. Yes, you'll need to use the stock reg and the new one. The stock one is run inline before the aftermarket one. You can cut the hose at whatever location and then plumb the new hose from the outlet into the return line back to the tank. You might need to get about 2' of hose to make it fit and look right after installation of the new reg. 3. Just splice the vacumm line from the stock reg. and run it to the new one. You want them both to have the exact same signal. Or atleast as close as is possible. 4. You'll still get some benifit when using this and the stock pump. The added load on the stock unit will proubably kill it in short order though. Also I wouldn't want to trust my engine to the stock pump in a set-up like this. As a rule the higher the pressure the less actual flow you would have. You could run the stock pump but, I wouldn't run to much boost to keep the pressures down a bit. That is until you get an intercooler and a better F/P. Even with an intercooler and good pump I was only able to run 14 PSI on the good days. 5. Start slow and rich then tune from there. Try to tune in atleast third gear. Get some new plugs handy it's real easy to run it real rich and have then want to foul out. I used to start off gapping them at the stock gap and then as they worn out I would close the gap up to about .032. And I'll proubly take a beatting on this one but, I found that the A/C Delco Rapidfire #4 plugs to work the best and last the longest. These are not the highest quality plugs out there but, they work good for the money. I just installed a set of NGK Irdium plugs and so far I can't tell a difference from the the 6 month old A/C's. The do look like a better plug and will proubly outlast the A/C's and they're so much more P/C for the Z car.

I love that movie. I remember the 280zx but, I don't remember the s30. If I'm not mistaken the 280zx is a 81 turbo that was gold with tan interior. Sean Penn at his best if you ask me.

Mike that's really coming along nicely. Can't wait to see how it looks and runs in the spring at Ennis. By the way are you coming up on Sat. the 22nd? Not sure if I'm going to make it to the track but, I'm going to try.

One other thing that I want to add is that a good 3" manderal bent exhaust will really help in every catagory. I did a new downpipe all the way back to the area right before the exhaust starts to go up over the rear end several months ago and that made a huge differnce. This was connected to an old 3" press bent setup that I had made yeras ago. Just the other day I did the rest of the exhaust and and again I got some gains but, not as much as before. In total I spent about 20 hours and about 100 to 150 bucks on materials not including the welder and all the other crap to be able to make that kind of stuff. The 3" manderal bent exhaust will help in both top end and low end. Right now I'm not running any muffler and it's alittle loud but, not to bad. It's kinda fun you can hear the turbo spooling up faster and much more louder since the materials are different than the stock cast iron stuff which abosrbed some much of the sound.

I personally think that it depends on you driving style and what you do with the car. For the street and everyday driving the bottom end torque is nice. At the track some more top end is what you would want. I have no dought that all of use have some trouble getting of the line. I've never played with to see what would havppen but, I think that the key to getting these cars to run good on the higher end of the tack is in the turbo and the computer programming. No dought that a cam adjustment or larger cam would help out. My setup engine is very close to stock and I run mine to 6300 when I go to the track and it pulls hard all the way. I remember that when I went to a larger turbo from the stock unit that the top end really opened up. I still ran out of power at 5800 to 6000 but, it was much better. Another thing about a differnt turbo is that it can be matched better to how you drive the car. Anyone play with thier timing. I set mine at 24* and that has seemed to be a good # for the turbo cars that I've had. That setting gives good off boost response and good top end.

I'm not certain but, you would proublably need to use the the MSD regulator and then use a Rising rate FPR inline with it. The RRFPR will come into play when the boost gets higher than stock. What you want is a unit that is adjustable. The Cartech model is something that I would recommend. I used to use it and it worked well up to about 12 psi. After that is was hard to tune right on a consistant basis. You definatley will need a better fuel pump when you start to increase the boost.

As far as I know all Turbo automatic ZX's came with an oil cooler. I run one on mine but, it's a stick. All the holes are there just they are covered up by a thick plastic sticker. Also I don't think that the fact that the oil cools the turbo is a by product but, more part of the design as a whole. The turbo bearing have to have some major cooling. If the car is idled down prouperly then you wouldn't need to have a water cooled turbo. Since most of us are in to big of a hurry to do that the water cooled turbo offers some real advantages here. I run the water cooled turbo now but, I've had good luck with the regular kind also.

That's the one that I run and I think that Lockjaw uses that one also. I bought mine form Overboost.com come aswell. Don't get in a hurry though it took about a month or more for them to get it to me. I was at the point of telling them to crdit my money back when it showed up. By the way I'm happy with it so far.

I;m surprised that your broke. I've been running the G-Machine set-up for about 10 years now and I've never had a proublem. I can only assume that I drive my car about he same as you do yours. i wonder if where the set is one the rod is a stress point and maybe should be shot penned to help the longevity sand safety of this item on modified cars. Jeffp made me a set of adjustable rods a couple of years ago for me that are similar to what Mike is describing. They work good at making things more adjustable.

Just an FYI. Thats my old intercooler I think. I sold on to Tim a year ot two ago. Anyway, It did pretty good on my car and I was going to do what you said your doing but, never got around to it. Let us know how it turns out.

I say go for it. We all know Jeff made a ton of power with a a stock ported exahust manifold so that can't be to big of a restiction. Your going to have the head off anyway so now looks like a good time.

I always look for a vacum leak first. I once had one similar to what you are describing. Turned out the outlet pipe from the turbo was raising up just slightly under boost.

Sorry to hear about the bum turbo. Sounds to me like it's time for some more upgrades.

I would run a Paxton or an other centrifical surpercharger on it. To take advantage of both turbo and super charging you would need a roots type blower that can produce boost just off idle. That's your wanting to run both at the same time. I think this has been discussed in the past so you might try a search of this forum.

Sounds to me like you got a good offer from James. I'd jump on it. Another thing you can do to make sure you don't have any pinhole leaks is to use some high build primer when painting them. That should do a decent job of sealing them up.

I've thought about making one of those but, just never got around to it. I think it would be best used on the high volume pump and not the regular pump. That way you would have plenty of volume with the added pressure.

I remember correctly the guy said that the loss of HP was on a built engine and it was due to the added volume that the oil pump must provide for the HLA's. I agree that it doesn't really make sence when the 81 car and the 82-83 cars had the same output and boost pressure. It must have been on the built motor where things can be dratically differnt. Really it was just something that I was told by a peson that I respected greatly at the time but, have later found some of his information to be bogus. About the springs and added pressure needed to keep them on the cam I think some springs that were just bearly greater in pressure would be good also I would certainly add the inner Nissan Comp spring to the oil pump at the least. The added oil pressure would certainly be a benifit in this application. I was looking at the Melling oil pump cataolg at work the other day and noticed that there is still a part # for a high pressure oil pump for our cars. The part # is M112. I have Part # M111 which is the Turbo Automatic pump that I've added the inner Nissan Comp spring to. During the summer I was running 20w-50 Mobil 1 oil and could get almost 90 PSI at first start up if the oil was cold and fresh. When it was hot I had 75 PSI by 3000 RPMs. I think this would be plenty of oil pressure for the HLA's and a cam with greater lift. Anyone have any thoughts on this also. It seems to me that to make the HLA's work correctly in an application like we aare talking about the oil pump should be considered aswell.