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Everything posted by Cody 82 ZXT
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Inside the chamber pics of detonation!!!
Cody 82 ZXT replied to JMortensen's topic in Miscellaneous Tech
Great link. Really shows why it is so damaging -
What Fuel Pressure Are You Guys Running?
Cody 82 ZXT replied to slownrusty's topic in Turbo / Supercharger
I had the same results as listed above byAfshin. With 7 psi you shouldn't need to do anything at all different than the stock setup. Most (all that I know of) do fine with 10 psi and a stock turbo. I ran 10 psi with a t4-t3 and did not have any proublems here in Dallas. I did have a Peirburg fuel pump on the can aswell. -
I'm sure you've checked this but, I'll mention it anyway. Do you have any exhaust restrictions past the turbo? ie. clogged converter or the ever popular banna in the tail pipe?
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Hey Pete wanna get rid of that finned cover? I've got a LSD on my zx but, it didn't come iwth a finned cover so I just used the stock open diff cover. No proublems in the last several months of hard driving. But, I would like a finned one if I could get ahold of it.
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So, Im installing a cage in my Z,
Cody 82 ZXT replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Looks good. Let us know how the effect the feel of the car. -
Successful removal of locking lugs
Cody 82 ZXT replied to wheelman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Thanks for the idea -
I understand that. Certainly been there and will be again. My motor is nothing special at all either. And we all know a decent J/Y motor can still make tons of power.
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Have you thought about picking up some new pistons instead of going with a J/Y motor?
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Ofcourse it depends on how much rust had how perfect you want the bottom end to be. If it's just very light rust try something like WD-40 and some fine steel wool to remove it. Make sure not to get anything down into the cylinders. If the engine is on a rotating stand you might try to turn it upside down before you try and remove it. This way gravity would be on your side.
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LJ, F.Y.I. fluid is not compressable. If it were then things like our brakes would not work. Everyone else, One thing else that I know is that I've had the chance to get some very helpful advise from Lockjaw and it has always been dead on. With his advise my car went form running in the low 14's to the high 12's with minimal money invested. Not that he had some magic formula or anything but, he does know what works and what doesn't. As far as the accuarcy of the Butt dyno I hope any of us know our cars well enough to know when it is running better or faster than it previously was. If you can't then you certainly need some more seat time in the car and less in the computer chair debating issues such as this. My advise if anyone cares, is to run the P-90 if you want a dependable combination that is proven to make power in this type of application. If you want to experiment then try the P90A and see what happens. I'll be glad to see what David thinks when he gets his together. I'll be intreasted to see how his opinion changes as his HP increases. I know that things on the car that I thought would not need to be upgraded at one power level I think are mandatory to upgrade now.
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I've seen that in mag. pics. Why is that?
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I've got a set of the Corbeau seats and have been very happy with them for the last 40,000 miles or so that I've put on them. I don't remember what style mine are but, they look similar to the ones in the above pic. I also bought the brackets that were made for the car and they are almost perfect. They needed to have about 1/16" reamed from the front two holes so they would bolt onto the seat. Not a big deal but, worth mentioning. Other than the hole issue the rails are very well made and look like they will hold up for many more years to come. I also got the lumbar support for an extra 50 bucks. It's very simple in design but, works well. It's one of those things that cost them 5 bucks but, where else could you get lumbar support so you have to pay 50. Anyway, get the seats and the rails if you want them to be just bolt on. If you have the time and the fabrication skills or have a good buddy that will make you some then the 100 bucks can be saved. Let me know if you need more info.
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I rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder once since I couldn't find one near by. Lets just say that's not really a fix for the proublem. It only lasted about 6 months if that. If you can just buy a new one. I recomend buying one from Nissan but, the aftermarket will do if money is short.
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Looks like I'm right in the middle at the awkward age of 30. Your no longer young but, your still not old yet. I told my kids I would stay 29 until they caught up with me. What I did notice in the last year or so is that the 17 to 20 year old girls started to look at me differntly than before. Maybe I am getting old? I've been driving a 79-83 ZX since 12/31/91 so far I've had 5.
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AP brakes on 280zx I am working on it with Z1
Cody 82 ZXT replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
*Bump* Has anything come of this yet? -
AP brakes on 280zx I am working on it with Z1
Cody 82 ZXT replied to a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
*Bump* Has anything come of this yet? -
Ok so how much? And how about some feedback as far as: vibration noise drag lanch corners etc.... Thanks
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Looks good! Did you make it? How long till we can get some preliminary results? I've got some rubber bushings that I was going to use this summer to replace my worn out bushings but, this may just be a better idea.
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I for one can tell you that just replacing the downpipe will make power for anyone looking to get the most out of their Z. If your not looking to get the most out of the car then why bother with any of it. To me it sounds like the "installer" is just lazy or doesn't know what he's talking about. I was once told the samething from a performance shop here in the local area that has had several magazine cars and a good reputation for building big power. Let's just say I don't buy or recommend them to anyone any more since they have given me bad advise on subjects such as "the factory DP is fine". I wish it was true but, it's not.
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The turbo car would really need a 3" manderal bent design which is alittle tough but, certainly can be done. My suggestion is to make the decsion on weather or not your going to go turbo or not before you outlay cash for something you might not use.
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I got my Toluene from a friend who owns a paint store. I got the 30% ratio from a web site that I can't remeber. Seemed like it worked good for me. I can't say I would want to just cruise around town all the time with it but, it sure made for a fun ride home. I had a could of gallons of the "the mix" left for a day or two and it made for some quick passes on the highway and some fun on the onramp if you know what I mean. I was just dying for someone to challange me but, ofcourse no one did. As I understand it (please correct me if I'm wrong here) the higher the octane the slower the burn rate of the fuel. Theres really much more to it but, that is the point were talking about here. Specific fuel can be made to benifit a certain engine caracteristics (sp) It's like retarding the timing without any of the side effects. Some of those side effects are lower power and higher EGT's. I'm sure if you had a good air fuel ratio and some time to tune the car with the higher octane fuel in it some real power could be made. You still have to have a correct A/F ratio but, it helps if the tuning it not exact. Like anything you just have to do some experimenting with it and be ready to get off the gas and be man enough to accept it if you stayed in it to long and tore something up. This coming spring I'm going to have some good tires hopefully, when I go to the track. I've never had any real race tire or even good street tires so who knows what the car could do. The toluene is cheaper than race gas for me and seems to work good. I'm going to take my time and see what I can get out of the car with the higher octane. I'd like to be in the range of Lockjaws time slips but, I think that still a ways away for my ZX. If the EGT gauge wraps around to "the other side" is that bad? J/k
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Do you think the input shafts could be changed out? Would this be practicle? I'm going to have my trans redone later this month and now would be a good time to make any changes.
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I'm seriously getting my T-5 redone this month on the 9th and I've looking into this set-up some but, I'm not sure if the added 1000.00 would be worth it or not. Has anyone had any real experience with G-force or anything like that? Also, what other benifits would there be other than increased HP and torque holding capacity. So far my T-5 has held up for 186,000 miles with about 80,000 with me behind the wheel. I'm just wondering if the rebuilt t-5 would last nearly as long as the factory fresh model did or will the added HP and torque kill it much faster. So far power wise I'm well over the stock ratings but, wouldn't come near testing the limits of the G-Force model. Any sugestion?
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I'm always a day late. Wish I had seen this yesterday. Oh well. Have a good one...