RTz

Maybe not a need, but the old L just loves a fat idle. Probably because an awful lot of it is art/preference... not absolute science. Since you've implied a heavily stock engine, you'll probably find 'cleanest' idle between 12.8 and 13.4. 14 is unnecessarily rich. 15 is a fair target... slightly lean of best emmisons, and slighty rich of best economy. Dont be afraid to experiment here. Risk is low. 13 to 13.5 will probably provide best performance at atmospheric loads. Blend those into your peak boost. I don't tune any richer than 14 for anything other than heavy atmo loads. With a stock L28ET @ 5/6 psi, you shouldn't NEED to run that rich. 12.5 is more than enough fuel.

Fixed

Hugh, Post 10 and 21... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122642 Dream, fix your shift key. You've been asked before. Times up.

DOH!! I missed this... boy am I in trouble. Bad Ron. Happy Birthday, you old fart!!!

Doood! When you said you were off to a party today, I didn't realize it was YOURS! Best Wishes!!!

Thanks for sharing

I did flip it because I wanted to use a rising-edge trigger (Wolf3D standard recommend configuration). If you are using a falling-edge capable EMS, you might get away with right-side-up.

Both vehicles pictured are using a single trigger... a modified Nissan optical CAS. Providing one additional 'window' is enough info for the EMS to run fully sequential injection and DIS. Keep in mind, different EMS's have different capabilities/limitations. Use SDS stuff unless you have good reason not to. SDS doesn't care if cyl. one is TDC power stroke or TDC exhaust stroke. Its a wasted-spark/batch-fire system so any trigger beyond that it pointless (and useless). Sorry, I don't.

A serving of Bondo and more shaping... Overall shape is where I want it. Next on the list... attending to all the imperfection's.

Now I'm confused. Terminology, perhaps? To clarify, I'm calling a trigger anything that provides positional (or RPM) information to the EMS. Be it a sync pulse, multi-tooth wheel, or even just a negative coil pick-up. Matadem, the way I'm using the Z32 CAS is functionally identical to the way I'm using a 280zxt CAS. In my case, both can be used with no disc modifications. Or, with a simple modification (adding an additional 'slot' adjacent one of the existing slots). In the first example, the EMS knows engine position, but it doesn't know specifically where cyl 1 is. With the modification, the EMS can establish where cyl. one is. Note: I'm only implementing the 'low res' row, ignoring the 360 slot row. As Tim suggested, it could also be used as a 'sync', working in conjunction with a crank sensor. In that case, a disc with only one slot would do the trick. It adds some complexity (requiring the use of two triggers), but it can add accuracy.

I'd have to do some digging, but I believe it was a '92 CAS. I didn't use a distributor base. The I built 'swash plates' (for adjustability) and mounted it directly to the front cover. It takes a fair bit of effort... and its purely cosmetic. When you walk up to the yellow ZX (pictured above), the CAS is fairly high and large. Its quite noticeable. In the pic below, the Z32 CAS all but disappears...

I can confirm that. That's all I have.

I get the impression the OP is looking at building a batch. The problem with an EDIS wheel is the number of damper's/pulley's Nissan used. You don't have the luxury of 'one size fits all'. Not even 'two sizes fits all'. This, in my mind, is part of the value in using the 280zxt optical trigger... its nearly a bolt-on for most L6's. From a vendors perspective, it would seem more profitable to focus on that design, offering a blank-off cap and a couple of different optical wheels (to suit various EMS). This strategy would cover 90% of the market, fairly efficiently. I've run these to 7500 RPM with no trigger errors. You may be referring to one I did. Its a very time consuming project for no mechanical gain over a 280zxt dizzy.

I tested this scenario a while back. The result was not as bad I had expected... http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=667353&postcount=26 Sequential is way more forgiving then that. Without a doubt, crank trigger with a cam reference is one of the most accurate timing methods we can can easily achieve, but its not perfect. No engines crank is perfectly rigid and any flex will lead to some timing error... our long L cranks are no exception.

If you're willing to go as far as aftermarket EFI, DIS becomes viable.

Can we stop playing the HP guessing game, puhleeeze? Its totally meaningless. So much more goes on in making power than a list of parts that its completely laughable to assign a number. We've all seen motors with nothing but massaged stock parts make really impressive numbers... and ridiculously expensive motors fall totally flat. Any more 'guesses' will be deleted.

Strangely, that's how I feel sometimes

To one of the larger contractors in Oregon, I play apprentice, journeyman, foreman, salesman, project manager, engineer, student, teacher, councilman, and evangelist... some day's I have no idea where 'up' is. On the flip-side, I don't know the meaning of boredom.

For a moment, I thought you were describing your job here

I'll second that... I've never met a polarized injector.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98232&highlight=tail+light It would put a smile on my face if you used your shift key

Absolutely. Clean it up, guy's.