hoov100

Also, don't cover the entire area in filler, just fill it in and smooth it out.

And you are positive you are getting fuel and that the firing order is correct?

Set the motor to TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder 1 and make sure the dizzy is on the correct tooth. Once you have confirmed that, set the timing to 15* and make sure the TPS is on the idle contacts at idle and not hitting the WOT contacts until it's WOT.

speedwaymotors.com sells a rod balancing stand and a digital scale that works pretty good.

You gotta love strategically planned events by car companies to make it seem like they are doing something special. they where doing 43mph! I think my mothers GTO can pull something close to that at those speeds.

That works too, when it comes time to get the line make sure you get the line with the clear coating on it, to keep the braided line from fraying.

They sell banjo bolt fittings with male AN connectors. Just run a small piece of -6 from the banjo bolt to the T and at the last carb, just run a 90* fitting. I can't find a pic of triple webbers using AN fittings though.

go by the gauge wire that was originally used as a link. You figure a 12 gauge wire is good for about 50 amps before it starts melting, 14ga wire is good for about 25-30 amps..etc Unlike fusible links though, the newer fuse style will immediately break the circuit, where as a fusible link will have a couple seconds of overload before it blows, potentially damaging the whole circuit.

Pony up the measly $315 and save yourself a big headache. I had the "scarab" mount kit in my s30 with the hooker long tubes and it was a total pain to do anything short of changing the oil.

Yep, I see it almost every weekend. They are usually the people on craigslist selling bent race car chassis as well. If someone wants to see these guys in action, just go to WSIR on almost any given weekend.

I would say $1200 would be a decent price for that car as it sits, but it looks like the roof has been replaced though.

Can't you just take them to autozone and find a modern fusible link with the same plug?

Say a stock good condition 4 bolt main bottom end with cheapie after market cast flat tops, .030 over, everything is balanced and uses a mellings oil pump and ARP hardware and some cheapie cast rods, a big flat tappet cam, rev kit, cloyes timing set, stock oil pan and timing cover with felpro gaskets should be about $500 if you assemble it yourself, you can find a good set of 487/x heads and deck them .030, stock size ferrera valves with a 3 angle valve job, comp cams beehive valve springs, titanium retainers and locks and a cheapie set of double roller rockers with ARP studs, should come out to about $600 you figure about another $500 for a new carb and manifold, aluminum short pump is about $150 and you can get a cheap set of used shorty headers for less then $150, exhaust tubing and an x-pipe is about another $130, I see rebuilt TH350's and 700R4's go on craigslist anywhere from $200-500, a higher stall torque convertor about $150, a driveshaft should be about $200 if you bring them the yokes, the mounts are $330, the 90* angle drive for the speedo cable is $70, the correct speedo gear is $10, a speedo shop will be able to make you a cable from the GM trans to the datsun speedo for about $50, a good condition nova 4 core radiator will be about $25, a taurus e-fan will be about $25, a reman alternator another $50-100, you figure another $50 in random nuts and bolts, $50 to make new radiator mounts, $40 for radiator hoses and clamps, $100-200 for a shifter and cable, and say $100 for misc gaskets, fuel line, fuel pump..etc The prices are general, but I would rather have someone being prepared for a slightly larger budget, then having one too small. You can also find ALOT of good, built circle track race motors with alot of street life left in them for under $1000 if you know where to look and who to ask.

Nobody is saying one thing is better then the other, but a bolt on sbc will outperform a stock lm7.

But a stock used 5.3 isn't an decent sbc is it?<br><br>Also, my price is including every nut and bolt, speedo cable, bigger radiator, e-fan, aluminum water pump, aluminum intake manifold, new carb, new distributor with an MSD module and coil, all of the mounts, driveshaft, complete exhaust, shifter...etc I mean it when I say on the road driving, not just a hack job to physically get it driving<br>

Rain, snow, sleet, hail, thunderstorms, monsoons, extreme winds, sand storms, 125 degree heat..etc This bike is always my first choice.. (also seen more offroad then my neighbors 5 mile high chevy.

You are looking at about $3-4k for an sbc swap on the road driving if you do everything yourself.

Don't forget valve trains, as they are probably the biggest and most overlooked aspect of any motor build.

Don't forget valve trains, as they are probably the biggest and most overlooked aspect of any motor build.

Looks like a molded in IMSA 3 piece spoiler. Depending on how it was attached you might be able to carefully cut it off, fix it and put it back on.

This is safety boost and not limp mode, right?

There still trying to sell that car? That things been on there for ateast three months.

Is that all you did, was just plug in the new ECU? have you tried plugging you're old ECU back in and seeing if it fixes the problem?

From what I understand, that's only a few of his cars too.

The other problem might be the fact it's one of those autozone truck carbs and was never properly tuned when installed. Also an off the shelf mechanical fuel pump is more then enough for a mild sbc. What size is the carb?