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hoov100

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Everything posted by hoov100

  1. Most launch ramps are fairly steep and long and a pontoon boat isn't exactly small or light, plus you will have to deal with a wet surface.
  2. The real question I think should be asked, is how do you plan on putting/removing that pontoon boat from the water with the CRV?
  3. I would walk away, I have never paid more then $150 for a custom driveshaft if I brought them the yokes. They are trying to sucker you in, when they say "capable of 300WHP" as HP does not break things.
  4. first off, no bumping. give it more then three minutes. Secondly, it's an AFM not a MAF, they operate VERY differently. there are guides all over the internet on how to convert to a MAF, take some time and read them.
  5. go to my settings, then click on change display name.
  6. I have only done it with stock car brake setups using stock M/C's, I had my 240z setup like that before I got my wilwood pedals and I ran my z32 without a booster. IMHO I love the feel of not having a booster in between the M/C and pedal. My current auto-x car ran a tilton M/C's for 15 years on the street before they sold the car to us and the brakes feel bitchin' even with 10 inch tires.
  7. I had the same idea a while ago, but was thinking of welding in a new portion to the front of the block and then having it surfaced flush with the original oil pump mounting surface. I still think a chain driven,external dry sump system would be the most ideal fix though.
  8. Would a billet aluminum disk in the same dimensions as the OE rubber disk work? I have never really been a fan of brake booster setups and usually opt to connect the M/C directly to the brake pedal. But I don't think you can do that down there and still pass inspection.
  9. Can't you unbolt the cam towers?
  10. One last thing for this thread, It would probably be easiest to machine the block down around the perimeter of the oil pump mounting surface and making an adapter plate that correctly spaces the TT oil pump out on the crank and allows an unmodified TT oil pump to bolt on to the vg33 block. Another option I have heard, is to use a vh45 oil pump placed in the vg oil pan and run it with a chain off the crank.
  11. You know that was a joke, right? I did the same thing when I dropped the VG out of my z32.
  12. I've used oil pressure gauges to check fuel pressure before, but never for a permanent setup. I wouldn't see a problem with it though.
  13. Type in weatherstripping and select "forums" what you are looking for is on the second page..
  14. Take a little time to search, this has been covered in a numerous multipage threads.
  15. MSA, ebay, craigslist, z car forums...
  16. General rule of thumb is to have it controlled by a switch on the dash, or if you are running an aftermarket EMS, most can control electric fans now days. I don't trust those little black fan controller boxes, I went through 7 of them over a 3 month period and will never go back.
  17. They are both games, R factor on the other hand is a simulator. Also how can something be a driving simulator, if you don't have damage?
  18. Did you bleed the entire system when you replaced the M/C? Have you adjusted the push rod on the brake pedal?
  19. They had better seriously step up there game if they even want to compete with forza.
  20. Next time you are at the junkyard look for the intercooler off a saab, they are a fairly decent fit.
  21. I know it's a little late, but maybe you could take the center section of the dash right above the trans tunnel and have it face you. Kinda like an RX7 dash.
  22. Motor and trans mounts, fuel system, figuring out a way to use a stock speedo or installing aftermarket one, figuring out a tach, clutch hydraulics, figuring out a radiator setup, deciding if the R200 is strong enough...
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