hoov100

I would at the very least put a new frame under it, front to back.

Get a 4 door truck and a large enclosed trailer and then just push the car out whenever you want to sleep!! My vote goes to class A, if you can afford it. Unless you can find a decent sized diesel motor home.

I have always been told by every engine builder I know to avoid sharp ridges in the combustion chamber/top of the piston, as they can get hotter and can aid in detonation. (My wording sucks, but did you get the point?)

He needs the ECU, CAS and the MAF from a z31T

The shape of the "dome" on that piston looks like it would create hot spots on the crown from it having such a fine edge on the raised portion. If you have the budget for the engine build, you could lower the pin height a little to bring the top of the piston closer to the deck, while maintaining a flat piston crown.

what gauge are you using? is your waste gate sticking?

You don't need a dash, or the wiring. As long as the ignition is still plugged in and the ECU can still be turned on you can drive it.

He wouldn't need a story if you would have spent any time researching the differences in the diff, besides the price tag.

Hook a kill switch the the fuel pump relay and hook up a starter kill switch and hook up an ignition kill switch. Alarms will do nothing when you can easily just snip the wiring to the horn.

Where the carbs ever properly tuned and synched when you put them on?

check the knock sensor.

Take the tank to a radiator shop and have them boil and clean it out, then get some tank repair epoxy (looks like JB weld) once that is fixed, POR 15 makes a gas tank sealant to seal and line the inside of the tank to prevent it from happening again.

If you take out of t-stat put a restrictor in it's place and it will be fine.

Sounds like the booster more then the M/C. Every z I've owned except for two made that noise whenever I would hit the brake pedal.

As for the whole shower thing, Just wash you're arms before you get in the shower and a majority of the dirt, grease, ATF, gear oil, oil and gasoline will be washed away in the sink. Now you will have to clean the sink more, but cleaning the sink is alot easier then cleaning the shower twice a week. Just clean up after yourself and try not to make it look like a bachelor pad. You might even get lucky..

I guess this is all going to break down into what you want to do and what you can afford. While the built LSx auto option does look promising, it's going to be the most expensive and time consuming. while going fly by wire would take more time to setup and work the bugs out of, it's options are only going to expand as more and more companies are utilizing the DBW for things like traction control, rev matching, actuation smoothness..etc. If you want to get really nuts, you could go drive by wire and use two paddles on the steering wheel to actuate two pneumatic cylinders which will change the gear for you as well.

A computer controlled 4l60 can be tuned for a smoother downshift by just taking some of the line pressure out when you let out of the throttle. But I still think a stepper motor hooked to the throttle that's activated for half a second when the clutch pedal is pressed would be a better bet.

I have no advice on this, other then to call the CC company and see what they can do. Other then that give them no more then 20 days to ship it, after that ask for your money back and if they refuse or quit responding then go to paypal and the CC company.

You might want to look into a 3.54 from a z31 and a taller tire, they are alot more common and have a bigger ring gear bolt.

If you would have spend five minutes on google with the words "taurus fan years" you would have found it in alot let time time it took you to post a reply. (90-95, pretty much anything ford thats FWD with the 3.8 and made in the mid to early 90's.)

It just bolts to the cam towers as far as I have seen.

Tighten down the bolt that holds the dizzy on and try and wiggle the dizzy shaft with your fingers. If it wiggles alot, the bearings in the dizzy are gone. Secondly, check for shotty wiring and corrosion, have the coil tested, and check the magnetic pickup for damage/cracks.

Use google.

Three things you replace while you are replacing the clutch. clutch M/C, clutch S/C and the throwout bearing. I would be looking to see how much travel the S/C has and making sure the clutch is completely disengaged when you press the pedal to the floor.

Also this is a repost to the 'inth degree..