hoov100

I don't know if you have an industrial supply store or something like that, but I use sheet plastic for my air boxes and belly pans on the race car, it's similar to roll plastic, just flat and in large sheets.

Keep the external cooler.

If I wasn't already packed up for the race track tomorrow I would be on my way to pick it up.

No, check out my post in the "z31 knuckle" thread a few threads down from this one.

Just remember you need to correct ECU for the cams/mods you have done.

How did that end up in a $250 tow bill?

You need a tune for those cams, as the stock ECU can't adjust for it and thats most likely the reason why.

Where these cams stock nissan units, reground, aftermarket..etc? was the cam timing set correctly?

I would look for a different rebuild shop if they are quoting you 750-1700. Contact stick shift trans and ask him what he would be able to do. The shop is in san bernadino CA though. (909) 882-1548

Yes, about the only way he is going to get some decent power out of of a high compression motor is with a bigger/long cam.

You have to figure out something with the lower ball joints and you would have to go with camber plates, or re drill the strut mount for the bolt pattern. You also have to use a smaller ID spring as well as a smaller spring perch for clearance in the fender well. One last thing, is you might have to re taper the steering arm for the s30's tie rod. I would reccomend trying to install the z31's lower control arm as well as the T/C rod, as it would put the mounting bracket in front, which would solve alot of exhaust issues with any sort of swap.

It would be easiest to find a decent head and deck the hell out of it. One question though, what do you plan on doing for your fuel setup?

The 280zxt turbo ECU is not tuneable, you need a 85-89 300zx ECU with nistune, or an aftermarket ECU. I would say 150-200WHP with all bolt ons, a cam and a custom tune.

That is indeed a project. I would be more worried about rust then the mechanical condition of it.

The 33's pump flows less then a vg30e's and are very dinky. The problem with just upping the pressure, is that vg's already have a problem with spinning rod bearings from high oil pressure. While yes you are going to be limited in flow by the diameter of the oil galley's, that's not necessarily a problem with the VG30 as the factory oil pumps are a bit small and flow just a little bit beyond what is needed for a stock setup. oil pump volume is the issue when you are trying to feed a turbo or two, an oil cooler and the motor. The few VG33 threads in this forum are absolutely filled with the info, links and pics.

Banning driveling and inland empire driveline. They have built every driveshaft I have ever needed made and have yet to have one break.

Pump flow and pump pressure are two different things,simply bumping up the pressure won't make up for the pumps ability to flow. Ontop of that, the whole reason we want to use a dett pump, is because it is leaps and bounds better then the 33's pump, as it has to supply oil to two turbo's, 4 cams, piston squirters and the VTC system as well as push the oil through a lengthy oil cooler hose setup. I barely trust the 33's oil pump to handle a stock motor in a stock car that is driven like a grandma, let alone a tt, t or even a modded N/A setup. Simply put there is no replacement for displacement, in this case the displacement is flow. I would still like to see a chain driven dry sump pump though.

Any cam work and you need a tuneable ECU. The n/A z31 EFI swap would probably be the cheapest, seeing as nistune is only $250.

My preference would be a vg30 over a vq30, but from what I hear the vq bolts up to the VG trans.

I'd walk away. There is alot of misatch and poor craftsmen ship on it, I would keep an eye on it and wait for her to drop the price. Anything more then $3500 is too much IMHO.

Just remember, anything short of a CAI or an exhaust will require a different ECU.

Ok, first off. You don't need anything larger then a 60mm throttle body, as the head and intake don't flow nearly enough to require a TB larger then that. Secondly, you will need an aftermarket ECU, or a z31 ECU with nistune to tune for the new cam, as well as the matching lash pads with the correct wipe pattern. Ontop of all that, I wouldn't expect more then a 30WHP gain after a full exhaust, ported intake manifold and ported head, cam and a stock bottom end. Lastly you can turbo the N/A long block just fine as long as you don't go to crazy.

Dude, you do realize that except for a couple minor details there is no difference between them, right? Also parts are still going to be hard to find, as only the distributor and fuel system are different. (besides the head casting number, even then you can switch it out with the one you currently have)

Most launch ramps are fairly steep and long and a pontoon boat isn't exactly small or light, plus you will have to deal with a wet surface.