hoov100

the l20b is a carbed 4cyl, used in datsun sedans and coupes as well as a few trucks. The L20a is a 6cyl used in some JDM s30's. Also the only 4 clyinder L-series that I know of, is the l18.

Please add your location to you're profile. Also the 240z never came with fuel injection. Second just about any major parts supplier should be able to get you injectors.

I should be there, anyone want to caravan over there?

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1664782219.html

What happens if you don't pay it?

Theres a bunch of small and nitpicky stuff you have to do to get them to work and not have any real advantage. the plenums on the vg33's use larger studs, ontop of that the little m62 blower used on the vg33's is very small and just about worthless, unless you tossed an M90 on there.

If your oil pan isn't warped, it should apply equal amounts of pressure between each bolt and cranking it down should seal the pan to the block even more. You should wipe around the entire edge of the oil pan and watch it, to find out where it leaks. You might be able to band-aid it with a glob of silicone where it leaks.

The cork gasket is most likely the reason it's leaking. Use a rubber gasket, a bead of clear silicone (RTV silicone breaks down and will usually end up in your oil or clogging your oil pickup) all the way around the oil pan surface and crank down those bolts until they are nice and tight, 7 ft-lbs is not enough to seal an oil pan.

For vette powerd and sparks. Make sure you're fan has the correct amperage relay, as they pull about 35-40amps on high. (from what I have measured and what I have read)

check the wiring to and from the distributor and coil, then check to see if your getting power to the coil. if you are getting power to the coil, check the ground.

if you have a charger, put it on a 2 amp or trickle charge over night, or drive it strait for an hour or two.

just to clear up any misunderstandings You need valve covers, not cam covers.

You probably need to adjust your clutch pedal so the S/C has more travel.

http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/4888070/Wangan_Midnight_Complete_26_Episodes I wouldn't bother with the new movie IMHO, it was a big let down.

If you only honed the block, I would suggest getting all of the deck surfaces machined flat, getting a new set of rings and make sure they are properly gaped and seated correctly. Also make sure your head doesn't need a rebuild, and doesn't have a warped surface.

Did you try calling them?

You're going to have to do your own tuning on the jets, power valves and squirters, you don't really need secondary idle mixture screws if all you plan to do with the carb is set it and forget it, but if you get real serious about tuning it, the secondary screws make it alot easier.

Because AFR's and EGT's are two different animals, ontop of that, they don't even say whats what when the it turns colors.

You would be better off guessing, or using your nose.

do you have a video of your car with the LSB at factory settings? You're car just looks flat and motionless, like the tires are doing the work, instead of the suspension.

You could have the stock balancer machined down, to just the alt/water pump belt pulley.

Nobody currently makes any, the few that have them, are usually holding on to them for dear life. (ontop of that, an under drive crank pulley really isnt a good idea on a vg30e, seeing as the harmonic balancer is built in)

From what I have experienced and hear on the VLSD is that once the viscous fluid over heats, it's no longer a good coupler. Also the viscous fluid wears out over time. Ontop of that double negative, you can't replace the viscous fluid, you can only replace the part it's contained in. Which You might get lucky on, as the VLSD you have, is the same one found in short nose R200's. The only thing I would be worried about, is that the axles you have are the correct ones for that diff.

Could you move the engine forward enough, so that the input shaft is completely out of the clutch? if you can get the input shaft completely out of the clutch, you can try turning the motor over. Also when you have them separated, put the car in gear and push the car forward, to see if the input shaft spins without excess binding.

The schwartz is telling me, that your input shaft is bottoming out on the crank bushing? (the little bronze thing, that the input shaft slides into on the back of the crank)(or your input shaft is cocked/bent and is causing the clutch plate to jamb on the sides of the pressure plate.