hoov100

No need to double post Braap, just go back an edit your original post.

did you possibly over heat the trans or torque converter? do you have a trans cooler set up?

he hasn't cheated if he hasn't been caught!

yep, right where the pedal mates with the rod on the master cylinder, the farther out its adjusted, the more the slave cylinder is pushed out.

did you verify that the hydraulic system is working like it should? is the slave cylinder fully extending? is the clutch pedal adjusted correctly? was your throw out bearing tight? did you install it correctly?

It's sooner then you think, I've bought everything to finish relocating the battery, bought everything to relocate the oil filter, got my new water pump on, gonna install the new mini starter as well, also gotta change the valve cover gaskets, re-time the motor, hook up the lights wiring harness, screw the switch pod into the center console, sand the roof, paint the car a new color, reinstall sunroof, install fuel cell, put passenger seat back in, run new fuel lines for the fuel cell, permanently install mirror. small list, but thats it for now, my chassis builder is backed up and cannot start on the roll bar for a few months.

Its ok at best.

get a 160* thermosat and make your fans come on at 175.

It's a possibility, but how many years has it been in there?

woot! put the center console in, wired the accessories switch, started putting the interior back together and ran my headlight harness to the dash!! (also picked up a couple pieces to help keep it reliable)

dont forget about the door panels from the z33, as they might as well be a part of the dash.

I wouldnt worry about a new mounting bracket, if the one you where using works, might open up a can of worms to get it to work right. only thing else i could think of is a SS M/S to S/C line, to tighten the pedal up.

he's in fort bragg, north Carolina, dont think he has to deal with smog, also in CA you arent limited to the model line, theres a ton of info on it on the web, if your interested.

could be alot of things, if you can, try turning it over by hand, might have been the lifters building up oil after the motor sat for the t-belt change.

When i did mine, i pulled the ring off, then took a pair of pliers and bent the lip strait up and kinda forced it into the stock housing. wasn't very easy at first cracking open a $300 speedo, mounting was another obstacle that involved 1/8'th inch aluminum strap.

I would go over every square inch of any z car for rust before i handed over any cash, regardless of how "rust free" "garaged for the past 20 year" or "california/arizona car"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COLEMAN-BILLET-ALUMINUM-PUSH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-CLUTCH-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ360148915520QQsspagenameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101 in case the link doesnt work coleman part #375-300

If I had a nickel for every time some guy pulled a gun on me......... I would probably buy Dr. Hunt a bigger hand gun.

lol.Tony, you need to write a book one of these days about your life experiences......

So, I've been busy (drunk mostly) today, got my dash rewired for the 4'th time, only requires 11 wires to make everything work! but turn signals and flashers haven been added yet I've also decided to to run the gauges, gauge lights, tach and radio through its own switch. So now i have 4 switches, ignition, headlights, accessories and turn signals. I also had to find a place to mount two of them and make it look somewhat factory, so i opted to use of the aftermarket A/C panels that attaches to the center console. ALSO, decided that I'm going to build a new air dam out of a bunch of FG and bondo that used to be a valance?

I have seen headers with the smog tubes, but none that i know of with the CARB sticker.

Wrong section man.

do you have the part number for them? (And yes, I hate edelbrock carbs, IMHO they are just re badged Q-jets)

everything looks good except the edelbrock carb, what style rockers are you going to run? I have the hooker long tubes for the v8 s30 conversion if you are interested.

maybe I read it wrong or something, but wouldnt the number before the W be the hot the viscosity and the number after the cold?