hoov100

the best advise i can give you for buying a street bike is dont, there just not good on the street, they have too much power and you can easily find yourself doing 50-100+ MPH without even noticing. but an enduro or motard..etc are probably your best best for an everyday motorcycle, my personal favorite is a husqy.

ok another day another bunch of crappy pics... our "hi tech, 300mph 40g approved craftsman racing seat" but i felt it somewhat necsasery to remove the dash and replace the M/C's along with all new wiring. and another batch of some goodies!!! (their is some more, but i cant find it)

ok another night of fun.... door skin is finally mounted!!!!!! the front suspension is back together with solid bushings and new ball joints. and yes the sway bar is 1 1/4" thick SOLID and we started the seat mounts..

alrightt, after a week of screwing around i finally got the hard crap done!!! one of these things is not like the other....... gotta love a 360* splined quick release... front suspension is apart for rebuilding... (hoping for tubular lower control arms!!) the upper control arms that "dont exist" in other words a set of custom upper control arms... and yes the bike is still around..

ok doors are kinda mounted, well atleast one is, dont worry the pin is stronger then the door, but amazingly is how easy things where once we figured out how to go about making road race doors, well that and we finally mounted the trunk lid, we bought a 22 gallon fuel cell. and i have the seats, but i have to mount them... new "secrete" upper tubular control arms. oh and heres the 9" ford housing i scored for $50 at the junkyard..

the problem with that little bar that goes strait down is that its angled and connects to the subframe so i can't connect to it as the passenger seat goes right there, but im probably just going to put a bar going from the joint on the side of the main hoop and go to the angled bar, the reason they didnt put a door bar their in the first place was that when this car was built (1978) it was still daily driven after the cage and everything was added. but trust me the car is stiffer and stronger then most fully cages drag cars.

well the door dilema has been solved and where goign to cut up the stock door shells and have functioning doors, the trunk lid has been mounted and a $700 parts order has been made.. pics tomorrow..

lol ok, you would think that parking a r1 in the middle of a parking space would be enough so that nobody could slam their doors into it right? well some dumbass pulled into the space hit the bikes tires, knocked the bike over and just left it their, no card no name nothing..

alright, new skin is on, now all i have to do is make fasteners to hold the trunk on and make some frames for the fiberglass doors, then just mount the front fenders, trim the hood and put a nose on it, then fiberglass everything smooth. that and put some homemade control arms on it..... my supposed helpers who stand around an drink..... big f-n rear brakes!!!!!

so i have been thinking about adding a door bar to connect the front and back of the cage along the sides and i was wondering what you guys think about it. now i still have to gusset the joints, but i was wondering if it would help with structural integrity at all. and yes i know its not a z, but its a z28 so i thought it would be close enough.

so after two hours and five pounds of bondo removed i opted to go with a set of fiberglass rear 1/4's this should make life much easier. also been thinking about getting a VIN for it and driving it on the street.

just get your tires on the line or just over the line and NOBODY will park next to you.

well the car is finally in the garage!! and with 1/4" of bondo for a small dent, but thats what the wire wheel is for right? well here are some more pics... overall quite a lot of work to be done, but i should be able to finish it in a couple months...

the NA z32 should be able to hand most anything a normal person could throw at it, i would worry about axles breaking, more then anything, but you should be fine for only having 400WHP.

now call me crazy here, but when i had to drive my z32 in the snow (4 inches) i had very bald and very dry tires on a very icy road with a automatic trans. and i did fine coming down the cliffy mountain at 70, the best advice i can give is to take it easy and if anything does happen let your instincts take over.

that should clear a LHD steering shaft no problem.

its pretty strait forward once the car gets to customs, but its a pain to get the guy selling the car to take it over to have it shipped, but if you buy from a dealer in japan they will usually have no problem having it shipped if you compensate for their time. or you could have a buddy visiting japan pick you one up.

i am amazed at how you guys manage to have such high rates without doing anything.

alright, no news is good news right? the small block is being run in a friends race car tonight at havasu speedway and well nobody has called me to say it blew up! but hopefully i can get one of the race cars out of the garage so i can bring home the 79 and finally get some pics of it.

red top optima.

i have this battery that i use for the winch of my trailer, that rarely gets used, and i only charge it when it goes dead, it has lasted 5 years in the elements snow sun water sand..etc and has yet to let me down, it may be sun faded, but it still takes and holds a full charge.

has anyone tried making a set of 180* style headers for the vh?

i need help figuring out what dam axle i have in my international, it came out of a 72 dodge 3/4ton 4x4 and i just cant seem to figure it out, i think its a dana 60, but maybe someone here can figure it out? http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v353/hoov100/IH%20c120/?action=view&current=DSC00344.jpg

07 Zo6 Ftw!!

"i wonder if that civic is as fast as it sounds.."