EMWHYR0HEN

contact Marco Vargas at sr20store.com. He's a Nissan wiz' and he carries lots of parts for JDM engines. He's located in Gardena. IDK if your car is drive-able but i'm sure if you take it there it will be much easier to figure out. plus, He's a true datsun/nissan enthusiest and will be happy to see a nice car like yours. tell him Myron sent you.

I'm kinda late but, congrats on those numbers. I'm glad it's your cars engine sound that's is being represented for the ol' Z cars.

I took a good look at the system under a good amount of load and everything checks out alright. I remember reading that it's really important to make sure that the clevis to clevis distance is setup properly (in my case it was the Tilton 2.5''). So basically that means your MC center-to- center distance should correspond to your balance bar. I do remember it being a PITA locating the MC position on the pedal assembly. I really helped to have a drill press and a sharp hole saw for the MC holes.

Thanks for the tip John. I'll be sure to check it out. Just to be clear your talking about the tube that holds the spherical bearing and the clevis's possibly hitting the sides of that tube, right?

I think your referring to a dual master cylinder setup. I've gone this route. You can find more info on the thread I posted here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136153 I'm assuming your not going to be running brake boosters so your going to need more leverage on the brake pedal. 4:1 is not going to cut it. Your going to need a ratio of 5:1 at the least. 6:1 is a good starting point for most racers.

I'd weld it then paint the welds.

Although th car looks good, I would change the wheels. Something more aggressive I guess, wider, and pushed further out to the fenders. And heres mine.....

How the hell did you come up with those numbers?

Those are some nice posters! Do you mind sharing where you got them? They would make some easy gifts for Datsun/Nissan lovers. Maybe the garage might be a suitable place for them?

Things black in color tend to absorb heat. At the same time, they also tend to release heat much faster than lighter colors when they are hotter than the surroundings (intercooler or radiator in this case) Take a look at most stock radiators, oil coolers, and intercoolers. There's a reason why they are black in color.

Thanks guys. It's not much of a looker up close. There's body imperfections here and there and are hidden which is a good thing but, I think the white takes away some of the shadow of the body lines especially when it's bright out. Oh well at least it's cooler in temp. You should consider BP! I'll definitely try and get some multimedia next time out though.

Remove the differential unit from the housing and unbolt the ring gear. Clean everything up really good with brake/carb cleaner and some shop towels. Once it's clean enough to eat off of you weld the spider gears together. There's four contact points on each side. Make sure that the welds have proper penetration and youl have a bullet proof diff. When everything cools it's a good idea to clean up the slag or flux if your using mig or arc.

I have a little more bias towards the rear so I don't think a prop valve will help much. I'm still running the same pads(AZC front, Dave calls them "street pads", and porter field R4-S rears) The bias isn't much towards the rear, in fact my balance bar is almost dead center. If your planning to go with smaller calipers up front you might be able to tune the bais with pads.

I drove the car exactly how it is now with the RB25DE setback as far as possible and I can say there is a difference in the way the car behaves. It's nothing spectacular and most people probably wont even drive their cars hard enough to know but their is difference at the limit. Cars that also have their engines entirely behind the cross members behave in that similar manner ( RX-8, S2000...) I actually have a lot of feedback/ impressions of the car since ive made some Major changes to it in the past year, but I just thought I'd post here since it is my most active/recent thread. I don't want to mislead anyone into thinking the car handles great now because of the VQ alone.

I havn't reported back here in a while after all my brake work and testing so I thought i'd give some feedback on the setup. As expected the dual MC setup requires quite a bit of force on the pedal to build up pressure. It is however, very "feelable" especially when up to speed. Even after numerous 100+ MPH stops the brakes held up great with out any fade. Brake release was smooth and consistent as well. Overall, I'm glad I went with a dual MC setup to tune brake bias. With the balance bar I was able to get my smaller rears to work harder and keep up with the larger front brakes. Even If I do end up changing my setup around again (different pads, tires, rotors, calipers, or even different tracks and conditions) i'll be able to adjust the F/R bias to minimize stopping distance.

I had my shift light set at 6700RPM and I came out of turn 9 (last turn before a 1/2 mile straight) in 5th gear so it didnt take very long for the engine to wind up to redline. I don't have a speedo but im estimating I got up to around 135 on the front straight?

I believe they're 1.75'' pistons.

Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight!

Oh yeah forgot to mention i'm running 275/40/17's in the rear. brand new falken rt-615.

Update: So far the new engine / drivetrain has been running flawlessly even after the resent track event I attended at WSIR. After being out on a high speed track mostly dominated by high HP cars I'm glad to report back that the car holds it's own even in the long straights. The balance is very noticable. When the car is pushed to it's gripping limits it tends to slide evenly and smooth rather than the car rotating or pushing. Even on some off camber downhill sections the car held firm without trailbraking. I'm very pleased with the results. Not once did I have to pop the hood, it helped the overall balance of the car, I couldn't have asked for more power (for now), and I drove the car to and from the event without a problem. Hopefully next time i'll be able to get someone to get some good pics and vids. Just a side note: I got rid of my 4.11 welded diff and slapped my open 3.54 rear end back in. The lack of traction sucks at low speeds. So far I've softened the rear by removing my sway bar and decreasing my rear rebound dampening. I'm really leaning towards a 1-way diff so tuning my suspension/chassis with an open might pay off.

That's rediculous. Who would believe that they would let a car out on a track with a tack welded cage. Turn 9 at WSIR has a decreasing radius and scares the sh*t out of me every time. Watching that vid doesn't help!

Nice Job! What size silicone hose are you going to use? I'm having trouble fitting 2.5'' hose with out the tire rubbing but, then again I'm running 17's.