LS1 240Z

my LS1 has 3 inch true duals on it, with magnaflow mufflers dumped at the axels. its bearable as a driver car, but pretty loud. people complain that it hurts their chests and insides, along with being loud. kinda makes me feel good.. lol

those tires are bad for manuals, they have a stiff sidewall and were designed to be used with automatic cars. for your next set you might look at BFGoodrich DRs or some MT ET streets...

put it on the car so we can see it

you think those front rotors would work without spacers with the toyota front calipers?

buy, fix, sell, buy badass stroker motor and M6, have money left over

dosent look there is any actual damage to the car, looks like just front bumper cover, hood and fender.. replace those parts and drive the car or sell it.. if you are hell bent on ripping that car appart, put the 383 stroker assembly in the LT1 block and have an injected LT1 stroker with a 6 speed

where its says Algie compsite aircraft is the drysump pump and its bolted onto the rear of the motor. you could easily use this in a boat, but deffinatly cant be used in a car.

there has also been a carbed intake to run on the LSx motors for quite some time.

ok, GenIII/IV motors are better from a engineering standpoint, i guess i should have specified

im not talking about any aftermarket heads here, these are factory as cast heads flowing about the same as those big badass brodix. when you get into porting stock stuff, LS7 heads WITH intake flow 330cfm at .6 lift. completely insane. factory cast iron blocks have seen 4 digit hp reliably. basicly the factory LSx stuff is as good as the aftermarket stuff you can buy for a SBC. the aftermarket stuff for LSx motors is absolutly crazy. thats all i was saying. i agree that you can make a SBC put down great numbers and fairly cheaply.. its just that LSx motors are better. period. they are designed to be better. its like comparing a Gen1 camaro to a Gen4 camaro here. there is no comparison between what they are, they just are both made by the same company and one has 30 years of advances on it.

use any of the outdoor paints.. they will be UV resistant

the heads. when you can buy factory cast heads that flow 330cfm intake at .6 lift it completely blows away any SBC. you are lucky to find ported aftermarket SBC heads that flow that much. and thats just the start. we are comparing something from 1955 to something from 1997.

the GenIII/IV motors have tons more potential than SBCs. thats like saying a flathead Ford has as much potential as a SBC. the 5.3 is a 326 CI motor. the reason why they are worshed is that they put out as much HP stock as extremly modified SBCs, get 25mpg and have almost unlimited hp potential. bottom like is its worth the extra $100-250 that a 350 will cost you. period, end of story

i havent built a 305. i started to and then realized it was going to be a MAJOR mistake. so for a $100 i got a 350. i put my 305 heads on it because thats all i could afford, and man was it a dog. ive had friends and relatives build 305s and were all dissapointed, and guess what, they swapped them ALL for something else. moral of the story, stay ahead of the curve for $100 and save hundreds, if not thousands in the long run. the huge limitation to a 305 is that there are no heads for them. dont ever compare a GenIII/IV motor to a SBC. they arent even in the same catagory. 5.3 is nothing like the 305, and has great performance potential.

my Z is going to have a chevy motor, ford rear end, toyota front brakes, nissan suspension and body. its something Dr. Frankenstin would be truely proud of. throw something together, get it on the street and work out the bugs

i thought it was a non fluf description of the boat anchor 305

305s are big turds. not even worth the effort of putting them in anything. youd have to PAY me a LOT of money to put a 305 in something instead of a 350. you can get 350s for $200-500. if you are going to go through the hastle of swaping a motor, dont set yourself up so you have to do it again just because you saved $2.95.

LQ9 without the accessories and wiring harness wont be over $1500

holy batgarage batman !

yes, efi is better, but it also requires a wiring harness, computer and injectors. most junkyard motors have their wiring harnesses hacked. it simplifies the install quite a bit also. it just comes down to personal prefrence, im keeping the injection

im just trying to throw some crap together. i just need to get the sheet metal and frame rails done on my car, the motor is cheap and already researched. i have a 00 LS1 and A4 sitting around along with a 6.0 with LS6 heads, i just need to have a car to put them in!

a few things... buy a 6.0, its a much much better motor, and if you arent wanting to do a head swap, buy an LQ9, they are more expensive but they are high compression. as for camshafts, if you are going through the trouble of swaping a cam, it should be for a huge cam. buy an LQ9, put the carbed intake on it and leave the rest alone. also, dont waste time on "blockhugger" headers, the 00+ f body and truck manfolds flow just as well. if you did a cam swap ($400 cam, $40 timing chain, $160 oil pump, $250 springs) rod bolts ($165) carbed intake and headers you could be looking at well over 500 crank hp. there are just so many cheap head, cam options its literaly endless.

i dont know how many miles it has on it. right now i have the LQ4, will be putting Katech rod bolts in it, have brand new 243 heads w/ new valves, Patriot dual gold springs, ARP head studs, GM MLS headgasket, maybe a G5x3 like i have in my Fbody. i also have a stock LS1/A4 from another car, and im debating what to do..

yes. want to buy it? has everything but intake, oil pan and wiring.

how about a 500rwhp motor for under $3000? Gen III/IV 6.0 with heads and cam will be there..