LS1 240Z

good lord.. never ever do rockers. huge waste of money.. leave the stock cam in there untill you can get a real cam. and by real i mean real huge. when you get the motor to put it in there change the rod bolts to Katech rod bolts. and put the F body pan on there (you will have to anyways, its $200 or so from gmpartsdirect) you will also have to do a new alt setup.. and from what ive heard you are going to have to put an LS1 crankshaft pully and water pump on it to clear the LS1/6/2 manifolds.. because the throttle body sits so much lower and the radiator hose comming into the top of the truck pump gets in the way.. i know you will have to put the pump on there for sure, but "they" say that the pullys stick out diffrently so you will have to change the crank pully too... when you get the harness done you are going to have to make sure and tell them its for that LQ4.. and not for an LS1.. because the injectors are diffrent.. i could keep going on about what you should do but ill stop. just do rod bolts. thats it for now.

having someone produce a product like this is awesome. from the looks of it the fabric is perfect. show car quality. it is nice to see that there are people out there waiting to do something correctly rather than rush it along and sacrifice quality. i hope you guys will make some other carbon fiber parts for the 240s and the other Z cars. just as a thought.. in the spirit of American capitalism why not put them on ebay.. have your reserve be $275 (the price you need) and then see who wants them bad enough. anyone who feels they need to have them right now can pay you lots of money for them right now. and other people can wait.. you might want to give guys who posted up on here that they wanted some first dibs though or something along those lines... just a thought to help make these panels well worth your time.

these motors are such whores..

my suggestion is that you sell the car complete and do a LQ4 swap.. but if you have to.. the wiring harnesses are very difficult to get out of those cars. the harness goes into the dash etc.. just be very very careful when you remove the harness as to not damage it. it will go in exactly the same as any other SBC.. just need to make sure you have an electronic fuel pump for it.

speartech can hook you up with a harness thats all plug and play and a harness. they are on LS1 tech and located in anderson indiana. they do excellent work

since the suspension is designed to flow through the top of the frame around the shock towers, why not just build a heavy duty metal bracketry that goes all the way from a new K member up to the shock tower mount, then you can put an upper a arm on it up there, along with having a strenghtend shock tower and can put whatever shocks/springs you want on it.

mine has QA1s on it. but its also a solid axle conversion..

the chrome part just pops off. then you would have to grind and body work the two seams. or you could just paint the drip rail body color..

you can get LQ4 6.0s for 1000-2500... its a much better motor than the LS1 even

that seems like a lot of money for a SBC.. ever look into the newer Gen III/IV motors? you can buy forged longblocks for them also.. SLP sells them and so do many other guys.

looks spendy... how much did that run you? btw ITBs are the shiznit.

ok.. so you COULD build that.. or you could buy an LS1 and put a cam in it and do 400 REAR wheel horse power with just a cam swap through an automatic transmission... or you could buy an even cheaper LQ4 6.0 truck motor and make even more hp..

the combo in my Camaro seems to work well.. 240/242 .600 .610 on 110 LSA.. with a yank 4000 stall, headers, true duals, lid, BF Goodrich drag radials and a tune it went 11.7 @ 114.. LSx motors love huge cams..

i have a 240/242 .600 .610 cam on a 110 LSA and it idles and drives great.. it is all in the tune.

if you have a gen3/4 sbc get the G5x4 the only cam you will ever need.

northstars are way wider than any sbc, new or old. the CTS-v was suppose to have a northstar but it wouldnt fit between the shock towers. they leak oil like sivs, they are expensive to mod, and the starter is under the intake.

i have an LT1 Caprice and a LT1 swapped malibu wagon. they are nothing but problems. use a later model gen 3/4 motor.. you will be sooo glad you did. put a truck 6.0 in it backed up by an LS1 t56. you will be so glad you did it over an LT1 every time you drive it and expecialy every time you have to work on it.

the truck 6.0s dont produce as much hp in stock form but are much much less.. you can get one from 800-2500 complete.

i do not know if me going to a 9 inch and 4 link is helping, hurting or is a wash weight wise.. that is somewhat disappointing though... guess ill be over 2k haha.. it is what it is i guess.

for 4k you can find M6 cars that are in good shape lol. a LT1 and M6 shouldnt bring more than $3000

the wiring harnesses are pretty much the same. good luck finding a non cut up TPI harness though. and the TPI motors arent that great... you can get LT1s for $500-1000 i wouldnt pay more than $300 for a TPI motor with harness..

the only problem arises if you use an early motor. the later ones have identical cranks to the LS1s. to get it to fit in a Z car is sooo easy... $200 oil pan and pickup tube and an alt mount to move the alt lower.. we dont need ps or ac so its great.

im shooting for 2000 lbs.. but i wont have an interior. the sticker on my 72 under the hood says that the car weighed 2200 lbs from the factory..

it is correct that you cant use the LS1 T56 with the older sbcs... but its not because of the bolt pattern. the input shafts are different. i have a friend that had a TH350 in his LS1 car. you just have to get a the TCI flexplate which has provisions for either stall converter pattern

you can buy LT1s for 200-1000. and T56s for 1000-2500... 4k is WAY to much.