LS1 240Z

encouraging... i was starting to doubt that i could get my car into the 2000lb range.. it will be a stripped out 240Z, backhalved with a 9 inch, plastic camaro tank, 2 seats, steering column, gauges, LSx motor and 4L60e, with S12+8s up front.. i think i should be in the 2k range dont you guys think?

heads need milled. the compression on that motor would be like 8:1 or lower. also a non baby cam helps. and im sure the carb set up robs hp. look on LS1 tech. there was a guy who took a LS2 with stock L92 heads and L76 intake with a good cam he put down over 550rwhp

yes.

yeah it would... id change that funky front angled bar too.. the line you drew should have been done in the first place. you should just cut out that first small bar and make it a full x door bar..

i dont know of anyone who is making 550Fwhp... that would be one crazy front wheel drive Impala, Monte or GXP Grand Prix. you are forgetting that there is a HUGE diffrence between whp and crank hp.. drive train loss on an auto is about 25% so if you make 700 crank hp.. through an auto that is 525rwhp. L92 headed 6.0s with cams are well in this territory..

ported LS1 heads flow as much as stock 243s. and even when you mill the heads they still dont have as small of a combustion chamber as the 243s.

one matte black stripe that starts with the curve in the front bubble on the hood and goes over the roof. over the back hatch and stops on the trunk lid. maybe goes all the way down the back of the car. on the side get the decals that say Datsun in matte black. ive seen them before..

i can understand the situation you are in.. ha. the car looks pretty good as red.. but also nice as black hood and chin spoiler. to me it looks like your chin spoiler has some chips in it etc.. id leave the hood alone..and just fix the air dam with matte black. but a matte black hood would look pretty nice too... my vote goes for black air dam, red hood btw that is a very nice and clean car you have there.. i hope mine looks that good when its done

i used ARP camaro studs or NAPA has longer replacement studs for a camaro. also there are RX7 4 lug studs that people on here have used. with these options you need diffrent lug nuts. the more common and cheaper 12x1.5 if you want to keep your lug nuts you have now, people have used Nissan mini van studs (i think Quest) they are just longer but have the same 12x1.25 threads. like i said. i used the Camaro ARP studs in the rear and Camaro NAPA studs in the front because they were cheaper. Also the Camaro lug nuts were needed for my aluminum wheels.

i did not know the wheels were 4 lug. if that is the case just get the longer ARP Camaro wheel studs and a 1 inch spacer. or get a 2 inch adapter. find someones car with the ZG flares on it and find out the size and backspacing of the wheels, and then the backspacing of your wheels and subtract the diffrence and thats what spacer you need. if you dont want peoples help or opinions, dont ask. there is no need to get your panties in a wad when people are trying to help you. expecialy in a life and death situation if your wheel studs break while you are going 100 mph and you fly into a concrete wall. spacers and adapters should always be a last ditch effort, and id never run adapters and anything more than a 1 inch spacer (even with longer studs) on a car i plan on turning or going fast in.

honestly if the S12+8s dont help id either put Willwoods or some other brakes.. so far with the hubs and the wheels it looks like you have a really nice and expensive setup.. i wouldnt try something that might endanger the safty of the car.. know what i mean? you could get the S12+8s and then get a small spacer..

what kind of re-enforcement does the car have... a 6,8,10,12 point cage? subframes.. what? also ive been worried about what would happen to my car if it came down on the front wheels hard from doing that.. any signs of chassis flex or anything like that from setting the front wheels down hard?

you already have a LS1 in your car? if so proceed to option #1. if not skip #1 and go to option #2 Option #1. big cam. i have a LS1 Camaro auto with a 240/242 .6/.610 on 110 LSA. love it. with stock heads, stock intake, headers, yank 4000 stall and drag radials i ran a 11.7 @114 estimated around 390rwhp through auto. now after you have a big cam (about $1000 to do it right) if on a budget stock 243 casting (LS6/2 corvette heads) give a bump in compression and flow better. can be had for $500 new. step up from that is ported 243s from patriot performance, these run in the $1200 range. above that you have to step up to trick flow or other aftermarket heads, very pricey.. in the $2500 range. with a big cam only you would have around 450-500 crank. with big cam and 243s you would have over 550 crank hp. with a big cam and ported 243s you would have close to 600 crank. with a big cam and trick flows you could have 650-700crank. Option #2 (the best) start out with a 6.0 cast truck motor. i can get complete motors with harness and computer for $1200 and then on up, im sure you can find them for the same. with just a big cam in a motor like that you would be in the 550 crank hp range, the 317 heads on these motors are simliar to the 243s but they just have a larger combustion chamber which lowers the compression. now where the 6.0 really shines is that for $1000 you can get ported L92 heads that with a cam would make close to 700 crank hp... there are tons of options about what you can do.. my prefrence is to go with a 6.0 with L92 heads, big cam and a single plane carb intake with injectors and a big throttle body. this would make the most hp for the cheapest price. LS1tech.com is your best source for LSx information.

well once you start doing the math its way easier and cheaper to just buy one of the newer motors... just trying to open other doors that you may not have thought about. with just a cam only in my LS1 im putting out about 500 crank hp. with a 6.0 with just a cam, pushrod, valve spring, timing chain, oil pump change you could have over 500 reliable crank hp.. thats just with stock heads.. with other heads you could do 500 wheel through an auto. as for injection that you speak of.. ive seen guys drill bung holes in aluminum intakes and just poke in 8 injectors, i do not know what they do for spark and telling the injectors when to fire but where there is a will there is a way..

the S12+8 caliper dosent have those ridges on it.. its the calipers i have.. they just BARELY fit my Konig Rewinds.. the face of the caliper is sooo close to the back of the face of the rim but it clears.. i think if you were to get those calipers that it would resolve your problem.. i dont know if you planned on it or not.. but id never try to drive with washers as spacers like that.. i hope you were just using those to estimate how much of a spacer you need.. on a side note. how much did those hubs set you back?

he is going to have to buy an adapter. not a spacer. those wheels are 5 lug... he should just do the 5 lug conversion first off.

have a tuner delete all of it.

or you can buy a complete fuel injected LQ4 6.0 truck motor for $1200 with harness and computer the 5.3s can be had for $700 or so.

everything will be fine. just buy it.

i can get you a complete LQ4 (cast iron 6.0) for $1500 or so with harness and computer. and im indiana. just go out and buy a T56 for $1500 and save yourself money and get a better motor. you wont be using hardly anything on the F body. just fuel tank, motor and trans and you can get all that stuff cheaper if you just piece it together. pm me if you are interested in getting an LQ4

$175 for a T56 is a steal. get it and ask questions about everything later. but it will work with minmal problems

sell them for 150 or so and buy some good heads. you can buy 243 heads which are much much much better for less than $500 to your door

i can get you a completle LQ4 for $900-1200. i have a short block that i would sell for $500 since that is pretty much all you are going to use anyways. pm me.

when you have the pushrods out and you rotate the cam, put dowl rods in the two holes on either side so the lifters dont fall down,if they fall down you will have to remove the heads. as for cam selection. do a big cam. i have a 240/242 .600 .610 on 110 LSA. car is an auto. drives great. you just have to make sure you have someone who is really good tune it. ive put 12k on my car this year after i did the cam. my 2 cents is that you either put in a big cam or leave the stock cam in there. do cam, dual valve springs and hardend pushrods. pacesetter long tube coated headers are also a must.

the LS1 has a couple extra bolt holes for mounting... but dimension wise they are the same. LQ4 is much better..it has a larger bore and has more head choices.