280zex

I run 225-50-15x9 with a 1 inch drop from stock with no problems. My tires are falken zr912's, they stick well enough for me.

If you have sharp eyes you will see the sss wagon, its in the beginning.

So I took the z to a show today, took some video Old school car reunion 2014: http://youtu.be/3CIlkN2B5G4

It looks just like the OEM Nissan cap, just solid aluminum!

There is no real need to change the stock fuel pump. Find a brass 3 way fitting and get 2 3/8 nipple fittings. 1 is for the fuel feed from the pump and the other is for the fuel feed to the carbs. Then find 1 1/8 fitting, this will be for the fuel return line side. You then need a fuel pressure gauge on the carb feed line. Its easy to choke down the fuel fitting installed on the return side to achieve the desired fuel pressure on the carb feed side!!!! Yes this works, yes I am 100% certain, yes I have done this millions of times. This is how Nissan did it, although they used a piece of y pipe with a small hole drilled/stamped into the fuel return line. I think Mazda did as well

I found a nice billet aluminum cap on the ground with a Honda emblem on it. It fit my L28 just fine!! I removed the Honda sticker and installed a Z sticker from msa that was made for aftermarket wheel center caps!! I have no idea what Honda it fell off from, but I'm sure if you Google for them you will find your answer

Went for a nice long drive to west Seattle, then to crystal mountain!

Relocated some items

Got new tires, falken zr912 in 225-50-r15. Removed wheel center caps, installed steel valve stems. Installed 90deg oil filter adapter. Replaced oil cooler lines with carbon wrap over stainless wrapped hose with 10an lines on the cooler. Oil change. Drive shaft mounting hardware check. Added denatured alcohol to the water spray kit, went for drive!!!!

Glad to hear your making progress. Hope to see the beast run! I got my z all sorted out and ready to go for a drive any time your good and ready!

I found this graph on theturboforums.com This should help explain some basic timing tuning using KPA as pressure measurements

Here is a map I will be loading in the morning. I added a good bit of start retard at about 10deg. I also changed my rpm limit to 6000

unfortunately I am unable to post pix of my ignition map (error 500)..........

Yes it makes sense, thanks. When I get home tonite I can set up a map with that info and post a pic so that people can see what it would look like!

When you get yours tony, would you be willing to post your timing map?? I am curious to know Right now I'm running mech advance to 2krpm with no vac advance, then dropping the mech advance back and using the vac advance/boost retard curve over 2k rpm with rev limit at 5800. And originally I forgot about that rpm limiter and was like wtf when it came on. I thought I fouled up my equipment!!! Doh!!

Exactly Leon, that's why I made my purchase. About the only thing I could want more is to have the 123 system run a cop ignition. Now that would be sweet!!!

Well I did as much tuning as possible in the garage. It started raining here so I called it a day. What I did learn is that my L28 likes a lot of initial timing, like 35deg btdc. My original dizzy (e12-80 match box) was locked at 20deg, no adv or retard, and the z was always a hard start. Now with the 123 dizzy the z fires right up, warm or not! All I need to do is just touch the key and she fires right up!! I have the mechanical advance curve programmed, and started to work on the vac advance/boost retard when the rain came in. For safety I put the boost retard at -10deg off static. Not optimal but safe for now. I don't like driving the monster in the rain, even with the new tires she will spin super easy!!! Even more so now that I have a more optimal timing curve, the beast is punchy!!

Thanks for the explanation Tony. I have been unable to fill in the info due to a large auto repair work load at the moment. I will be working on the z today and post up my findings as soon as possible.

I don't run fuel injection. I have a Holley 4bbl/turbo blow thru and really needed to have an distributor ignition system that can do mechanical advance along with vac advance and boost retard. There is no other distributor driven system that can do what I need, at least not that I know of or have found during my research. my only other option would be edis and mega squirt, but I don't run FI so why add all the extra equipment just for ignition control

google for hanger 18 mods for turbo charging a holley carb, also theturboforums.com is a great resource for what you will need to know

I just installed my new fully programmable distributor from 123ignitionusa.com The install is so fresh that I have not started the beast yet as it is 7:15am in Seattle. The fit and finish is the best I have ever seen, super clean! The cap and rotor have copper contacts instead of aluminum. The unit is much more compact than my stock match box dizzy. Install was really straight forward and only requires 3 wires for connection. There is a 4th wire (yellow) that will allow for a +12vdc input switch for changing between 2 different ignition curve programs. This unit allows for ignition retard under boost!!!! It has 2 different programmable curves, 1= mechanical advance, 2= vacuum advance/boost retard. The software interface is clean and very easy to understand. Also there is the function to tune on the fly, I.E. tune it while driving. I would suggest performing dyno tuning for this part. I will take some video later as its still too early in the morning to fire up the monster Z right now, so stay tuned!!

look for my postings in the turbo section, I did a full write up about 4bbl holley turbo blow thru. Mine runs great!!!

Called my local Datsun shop friend, he has vg30 for 200$ and vg33 for 275$. Just doing my research on the best way to proceed. I really need to read up on the VG engines, I know nothing about them! Still its Nissan and I can work with that!!

Well the local junk yard will sell me a 1992 pathfinder engine, ecu and wire harness for 650$. A little much I think.

Boy you 2 are mind readers!! Currently on the hunt at local junk yards for what I'm looking for