lowrider

Parting out the L28?!?!

I would be curious as to how you mount the pump and such. I myself am not a big fan of putting a sizable container of gas in the engine bay, that's why I mounted my surge tank in the rear by the fuel tank.

That's a nice piece you have there! I used the same pumps, but in a different format. So far so good for me!

I hope everyone reading this had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. For Christmas Santa delivered a set of MSA sway bars, 1" front and 7/8" rear. I took me roughly an hour to install both a few days after Christmas. It was surprising the size difference of the stock to the new pieces. Definitely made the stock sways look wimpy. I also had ordered a turbo blanket from a vender off of another forum for a whopping $40. The main reason I hadn't gotten one up until this point is the simple fact of expense. The eBay blankets are going for $100 all day long. Due to the way I made my wastegate bracket for my holset, I have to make two holes in the blanket for everything to play nicely. I couldn't bring myself to cut up a brand new turbo blanket that cost $100! So I jumped at the chance to get one for cheap. It was a nice piece for the money it seemed really durable. I punched a few holes in it and on it went. I was bored one night and in lieu of wanting to build a stainless exhaust, I decided to practice my stainless welding on a length of stainless tubing that was laying around. I decided to make a "boso" muffler tip that bolts to my muffler. It was a novel idea, but it served its purpose, The welds turned out pretty good. I've convinced myself to try and make a full exhaust, now its a matter of getting the time and materials. Onward to the pictures! I snapped a few pictures of my surge tank mounted while I had the wheel off doing the sways. The car has temporary been put into hibernation. I need to do some maintenance like remove the tank and get it boiled out. I also need to remove the seats and por15 the floor pans and various other misc things before it hits the roads this spring.

Here is mine. I made it mount between the mustache bar and the fuel tank, where the stock fuel pump mount was. Im using a carter to feed the tank which has a walbro 255 inside. I have a few pictures of making it, in my build thread. Here is a shot with the wheel off, of where it's located .

Keep the updates coming! I love the detail that is going into this build! The car is amazing!

Its a Grant formula GT. First clue was the grant horn button and 5-bolt hub, Momo uses a 6-bolt pattern!

Your pulley looks exactly identical to the one I have.

Here was the best side view picture my crappy phone came up with. I hope it tells you what you wanna know!

I thought I did, but I can certainly take a few.

I have a 2 row that came off of a 280z that had AC. Cleaned up and freshly painted!

If your looking at the front of the engine, the timing mark indicator is on the left side when using the 280 balancer. I'm not sure if it the same for the L24.

I have a two row pulley that came off of a 280z that had AC. Its cleaned up, painted, and ready to go $50 shipped.

Ahh! now I see! I had a speaking suspicion that it was a strut tower bar, but the shape threw me for a loop. Seeing your pictures Litman connected all the dots.

At the moment I'm rocking an original tattered/weathered 240z 4-speed wooden shift knob, even though I have a 5-speed trans. It just has character, ya know?

Sorry if I missed it, but what is that?!

This passed weekend I got a change to plumb and finally mount the surge tank. I found out as soon as I tried to hit boost for the first time that I had a major problem. Luckily while I made a WOT run in third gear I was data-logging. At around 3rd gear under boost it felt like I was hitting fuel cut. The data log show that at one point my over-run boost setting had cut fuel, no big deal, I turned the boost controller down a hair and went for another run. Second run did the exact same thing, except this time I caught the rpm it was happening at. I looked at the log, the PWM and Duty cycles were normal but my AFR's went from 11.4 to 16.00(limit of my wideband) in under a second. Fuel flow. Since It was an abrupt change, that means a total lack of fuel. I had designed the surge tank to hold over 30 seconds of fuel with my injectors at 100% duty cycle, so what the heck? This "fuel cut" was happening at less than 3 seconds into the WOT run so the surge tank isn't full. That got me thinking, I had changed the fuel pick up to the stock one inside the tank when I put the surge tank in v.s. the "ghetto sump" off of the drain that I had been running. Low and behold, I changed back to the drain for the inlet. Problem solved!!! I suppose the in-tank pick up is partially clogged, keeping the carter from flowing enough to fill the surge tank all the way during normal driving circumstances but not restrict it enough to cavitate the Walbro inside. As well as dealing with the fuel starvation issue I also changed my alternator. I had been using a CS130 which is a 100 amp GM unit. Since the cold weather has blown in I have to use the heater regularly, especially at night. The alternator couldn't take it at idle; The lights, fan, and the blower motor all running at once. I did some research and found the bigger brother of the CS130, the CS144. The CS144 delivered a whopping 140 amp charging capability along with an astonishing 95 amp output at 2000 rpm(alternator rpm). Coupled with the Datsun v-groove pulley that put the alternator at 2000rpm as the engine idles at 1000rpm! Searched on here and found that a few users were using them with high regards. A trip to the local pull-a-part delivered me a CS144 from a 95 Caddy for a wallet busting $25 with a 30 day warranty! When I put the old alternator on I had to modify the upper adjuster/ bracket. I used the stock piece, although I really wasn't satisfied with the adjustment range. So as I researched I found a thread by KTM adapting the 144, In this thread he used a turnbuckle from Lowe's for the upper bracket; I followed suit with one from Ace Hardware. I turned a spacer on the lathe to fit in the eyelet of my 5/16 turnbuckle that centered both the block and alternator mounting bolts. I installed the alternator using my existing mount, wiring, and belt. Problem solved! I turned everything on, lights, fan, stereo, blower motor, EVERYTHING. The new alternator took it like a champ! I now don't have to worry with having to rev my car slightly when I get caught in traffic at night! Anywhoo, This update comes without pictures. Hopefully I'll remember to snap a few pictures of the alternator and the mounted surge tank the next time I get the car on the lift.

I have a 2 row that came off of a 280z that had AC. Cleaned up and freshly painted!

I've been having similar problems, I guess I'll have to bust out the soldering iron and install a cap!

Thanks, I'm glad I decided no the powdercoat now it looks tons better! I got both pumps off of eBay. The Carter is a 72 GPH low pressure pump, PN: P4594. The Walbro is an in-tank 255LPH PN: GSS342. I'm waiting on the weather to put the assembly in. I can't wait to see how well it works!

I finally finished the surge tank, as soon as the weather clears up it will be time to install it! I decided to powder coat the body semi-gloss black. I'm glad I did cause it looks amazing!

I forgot to mention that the construction of the surge tank, along with the pumps cost me right at $200. $65 for the carter, $95 for the walbro, $25 for the material, and $15 for the brass fittings. Budget build FTW! I'm also in a dilemma. Should I paint, powder coat, or leave it alone?

Update on the fuel surge tank. I finally got under the car to figure out how I was going to mount everything. I finally ended up deciding on mounting it to the factory fuel pump upright mount, and the control arm mount. I then used a flat plate to conjoin the two mounts. Determined the placement of everything, then made mounts for the tank. Welded everything up, all that's left now is to run the fuel lines and electrical.

I haven't had this happen personally, but when I put a turbo timer in my car when ever I would turn my key to the lock position with the timer active and the car running the starter would grind. Come to find out on the ignition barrel, the lock position and start position are 180 degrees apart. So when the ignition was bypassed by the turbo timer, It would back feed current through the lock position into the starter circuit. I wonder if this is what is happening to you. Did you do any wiring to the factory ignition plug when you did the swap? I'm just throwing some ideas out there.