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Everything posted by lowrider
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78Z: L28et MS2, EDIS, Holset swap...
lowrider replied to Challenger's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Your assumption is correct. EDIS should put on a light show granted that it has power, ground, and a VR signal; pretty much everything but the PIP and SAW wires. Your car is coming along nicely! Very clean! *edit* Darn Leon beat me to it! -
For some reason of another, I can't see the pictures.
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Two words, Vapor Lock. He uses it to keep the fuel in the float bowls from boiling, the same purpose that the fan originally served on the fuel injected model.
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There was a member that was running a Holley along with a to4e/t3 turbo not too awful long ago. Found him after searching "holley blow through". His name is 280zex, here is his thread but the pictures appear to be dead, so here is the link to his photobucket account. He dynoed it at 305hp/285ftlb @ 12psi. *edit I found another thread with a few pictures here.
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The latest project is the fab of a fuel surge tank. I started this project to finally to my fuel system right. When I first did my fuel injection swap,running NA, I ran a 90 degree fitting from the gas tank drain into a filter, into an aftermarket replacement pump, feeding the fuel rail. When I first installed the turbo with an FMU for fuel management, the one pump wouldn't suffice, so I added another pump in series to help with the high pressures. Fast forward to last week when I realized that around 5500 The car's AFRs' would start to rise into unsafe territory. I thought it was a fuel restriction so I decreased my timing under boost, increased the begesus out of the fuel table in the range it was leaning out, and took it for a drive. The drive backed up my assumption that I had a restriction. To finally put my fuel system to bed, I decided to fab a surge tank. For sake of packaging I wanted to go with an in-tank pump in the surge tank. I found a Walbro 255Lph fuel pump for under $100, I bought it based solely on the fact that the seller had great customer service and worked with me to include the filter sock I needed. The next decision was for the feed pump. I finally settled on a carter 72Gph pump. Summit was selling these pumps for $91.00 shipped, but lucky me found the same pump on eBay for $65 shipped! I did some calculations that I would like to have a 1.5 liter tank including the lost volume due to pump. Finally I settled on 4in diameter tubing, after a call to the local metal company I procured a 4x12x.25 tubing and a chunk of 3/8in thick 6061 plate that the top flange was going to be made of. Picked everything up and went to work! Tacking the .25in bottom on the tube. All welded up! Cutting the center out of the 3/8in top flange: Cutting the outside of the flange out: Tacking the flange on Top all welded up and the top plate made All welded up, I'm still working on my tig welding. Not to bad for someone who taught their self. The top plate drilled and if you look on the table you will see the 1/4npt bungs I made: Bung placement: Fuel pump stay and bung welded on the underside of the lid: Fuel pump bung welded on the topside: Fuel pump mounted: Everything finished and welded up: When I get everything mounted I will post installed pictures. I still have yet to determine the mounting brackets but that shouldn't be that difficult.
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I'm not sure why I keep neglecting this thread. Since last time, I've installed my clutch, synapse bov, Taurus electric fan, and a gm cs130 alternator. The synapse bov is one of the nicest units Ive ever used! top quality craftsmanship, and remarkably responsive. I absolutely love it! For the longest time my mechanical fan bugged me because it "didn't fit" with the clean-ness of the newly developing engine/engine bay. I finally took the leap and picked up a 3.6l Taurus 2 speed fan from the local pull-a-part. I also grabbed a CS130 alternator off of a mid 90's Pontiac sunfire. The CS130 is a 100-120 amp 3 wire gm alternator, I basically followed the instructions of another member on here and modified the lower alternator mounting bracket to align the CS130. After I got the higher amp alternator installed I went about "massaging" the taurus shroud to fit between the radiator and the water pump pulley. After a liberal amount of cutting I got it to fit with a little room to spare (like 1/4 inch clearance between the crank pulley and the fan motor). I used a Volvo 2 speed fan relay, in conjunction with a BMW 2 speed fan sensor/switch. I was fortunate enough to have the appropriately sized tap, to tap my thermostat housing so the sensor would fit. This fan is great! I should have done this modification a long time ago. Sitting in stand still traffic, nothing more than a slow cycling of low is needed to keep the car at operating temperature. The high speed will also lend its self useful when I finish my ac system. Anyhow I don't have many pictures to accommodate this update, but some are better than none I suppose? On a completely different note, I work at Dollywood's Splash Country as a lifeguard instructor during the summer. Well this at the end of this summer Splash Country hosted the Shades Of The Past car show. We had our entire parking lot full of beautiful cars, and had the top 25 around the emptied wave pool. Fortunate as I was, I got to work the show! Talk about being in heaven! I got to see a ton of cars all while getting paid to do so. During the entire day I was unable to take any pictures of the cars, but as they were announcing awards at the wave pool, I walked to the top of one of our structures and snapped a few pictures of the crowds huddled around. I hope everyone enjoys!
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Mr.Vengeance's 71 S30-240Z Shakotan Obake
lowrider replied to VenomousType's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I'm digging the 240! I absolutely love the Camaro, I've always had a soft spot for that body style. Not to mention the street fighter look! You sir, build some nice cars. -
My 260 originally had the same 4barrel setup on it when I bought it. I never used it, I replaced it with a set of su's. From what I've gathered, the 4 barrel piece was made by turbo toms back in the day. The base is identical to the ones used in the draw through kits. This assumption was also reenforced when I talked with another Z owner that was using one. He verified that it was indeed a turbo Tom piece.
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A simple search for "xxr 527" yielded six threads on the topic, one of which is This One. More specifically post #68.
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I guess I will chime in and attest to Tony’s “words of wisdomâ€. I have been down the road your about to travel. I ran KA24e injectors controlled by a stock ecu and 8:1 fmu taxing a stock replacement fuel pump. I ran into this same scenario, my pump would internally bypass before it reached the pressures the fmu was demanding. This caused my setup to lean out higher in the rpm range while on boost. The solution; I put another stock replacement pump Inline to help supplement the pressures demanded. That worked like a charm, I got fed up with the crude-ness of the fmu and bought megasquirt, I’m still running the pump setup to this day.
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If by lower you mean more compressed, then yes. The R200 is wider on the left side thus compressing the driver's halfshaft. I had troubles getting my drivers side halfshaft in so I searched on here. I found out about a number of people having the shaft actually bottom out, causing handling problems. There was a thread that a member started that showed how to fix the binding issues by shortening the shaft by a half inch. I did just that, shortened it. But some have problems with the length of the halfshaft, and others don't so who knows...
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That's odd, my early 260 had the 4 bolt flanged half-shafts. When I broke my R180 and swapped in my R200 I used my original half-shafts and everything bolted in proper.
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They may appear that way. lol The bottom of the fender on the driver side was molded with screen door wire and bondo. I assume the passenger side was the same way.
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So, today with help from my daddy-o I finished stripping my wrecked 260. Were hauling the body off to the scrap yard, but not after the motor, dash, wiring, interior, and heater were removed. We kept the motor attached to the cross member and lifted the body over the motor/transmission. I also received my clutch today. I tore into my car but wasn't able to finish in a timely manor, Ill wrap it up tomorrow after school! I also snapped a few pictures of my car while it was parked outside the house today. I figured since you all havent seen the stance of the car after the new tires, It was about time! And the new clutch!
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Show Off Your Engine Bay! Pics Wanted, L-series
lowrider replied to philipl's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
Figure I should show off the updated bay -
Thanks! Some-what of an update, I bought a stage 4 Competition Clutch from 240hoke. I'm anticipating the destruction of tires?! I also bought a synapse synchronic blow off valve. In conjunction with books, talk about spending a pay check really quickly! I plan on posting picture when all of the goodies arrive.
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Man, I've neglected my thread! I haven't done much to the car since last time. I replaced the rear wheel bearings, following their disagreement with the lateral loads that my new tires put on them. Sucker left me stuck in NC on memorial day weekend... the two hour wait for the wrecker was not fun. I since decided that I am going to put AC on the car. I figure a few creature comforts are always a good thing. I found all of the AC part attached to a 280z in the local pull-a-part. Snatched everything I needed for a cool $80. I replaced the control panel with the 280 piece along with installing the evaporator. I also in my plundering found an IMSA 3 piece spoiler in another local "junk" yard. Bought it for $50, after a rattle can paint job It looks like new. I also wrinkle painted my turbo valve cover, along with sanding the raised portion and letters! looks shweet! I guess I'll quit boring you with text, and just cut to the pictures.
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OMG....my LS1 sounds like my old L28ET or vice versa
lowrider replied to ktm's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Wow! you wasted no time! It seems like yesterday you were parting out your l28! The LS sounds good! -
When I installed my drain, the pan welded perfectly. I used a steel pipe fitting from the local ace hardware. Welded it on, get the coresponding barb and your good to go. Be sure to weld the fitting above the oil level and to not get the galvinized fitting.
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I found this out the hard way the other day. When I left home there was no chance of rain, started down the interstate and it started pouring! I didn't notice any significant difference until I had to get in boost to pass someone... It fell on its face. I plan on making a front splitter that extends to the engine cross member. When i do, the filter is going to be boxed in.
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Crafty-ness at its best! lol
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I photoshopped the PROOF off of the picture. Lol the F ended up on the tire and it's difficult to get the detail in there!
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I went to the dragon today, I had a blast! The weather was perfect so I seized the opportunity!